So finally i think I'm going to tackle this, this week. No symptoms for me to even suspect the causes for this fix only primitive maintenance. I don't want it to ever be a issue. Soooooo i think i will have some time after wed to start. I have done my research on how to do it and feel some what comftorable doing it. A bit nervous tearing into something i never have torn into but I'm fairly stable with a set of wrenches . Im also going to torque everything down while the vc are off also. Only thing...... i hunted a Inch lb torque wrench today as sears and found nothing . I have a 3/8'' torque wrench with ft-lbs and n-m , where can i find one in in-lbs ?

Also any new good advice before i start the project ? I just washed the engine and engine bay to clear all the dust etc so its nice and clean. Also plan on leaving it at the shop over night so she is cool when i start

 

I use my 5-75 ft-lb MAC 3/8" drive torque wrench for everything under the VC's and my 4R100 transmission. It covers the range needed for all my torquing needs in these areas.
To me, the biggest "gotcha" is the studded bolt that holds the dipstick tube on the passenger side VC. Once it's loose, I can remove all the VC bolts with a short 3/8" drive swivel head ratchet, 13mm socket, and short 13mm wrench.

 

MY torque wrench is a 3/8 but only goes down to 20 ft-lbs and up to 120 ft-lbs. IIRC its 20 ft-lbs for the rocker bolts and 120 in-lbs for the injector hold down bolts....... Since i only have ft-lbs at the moment what would the 120 in-lbs for the lower injector hold bolts convert to in n-m or ft-lbs

You also mentioned the studded bolt for the dip stick tube...... Is that a real booger ?

 

The injector hold down bolt would be 10 ft-lbs. Your tq wrench would be too large for them.
You may need to grab the end of the stud with vise grips to hold it while you break the nut loose. I have a thin wrench that will fit under the bracket to hold the bolt head. Just snug the nut when you put it back on and and it shouldn't be a problem if there is a "next time".

 

Just Googled it lol gotta love google...... So 12in-lbs is equal to 1ft-lb. So a 120in-lb should be 10ft-lb right? I just don't want to f*** anything up lol. Also in the write up i have it says the rocker bolts to 20ft-lbs and the lower injector hold down bolts...... are there upper hold down bolts too ? if so do they need a torque check ?

 

THanks Roland, one more above , I'm headed to bed check back on your answer tomorrow. Thanks for all the help and info - Baker OUT ...... Till tomm

 

Most people don't worry about the upper bolt. It is not easily accessible. It is usually torqued with the injector out. Here is a picture showing the upper and oil spout bolts.

 

I didn't remove the oil spouts when doing my injectors.

 

Yea i see......... that would be tough to reach

 

Just a couple of pointers here.

First, if you use a ft lb torque wrench, or even a in lb one you don't fully trust, if the injector bolt feels like it's moving a lot without the wrench clicking, pull the wrench off and check it on one of the rocker arm bolts. Turn on one of those until you here the click. It's safer since it's torqued twice as much and it's also easier to get to in case something goes wrong. Usually all it takes is a quick click on the rocker bolt to get a feel for the proper torque and you can resume tightening the injector bolt.

On the injectors, the hold down plate is shaped like a fulcrum, so no need to torque both the upper and lower. The plate will rock and provide the proper torque to both bolts. If for some reason your bolt bottoms out, loosen it up and give a few turns to the upper bolt with an open end wrench (or pull the solenoid so you can get a socket in it) and then torque the lower bolt.

 

Thanks Chris great pointers and info. FYI I'm going off your write up you sent me a few months back. I appreciate all the help y'all. i will be doing it probably fri now, just got a bit of rain today so went and picked up the tractor to do some burning at the house. Then have a bit of work wed and thurs.

Keep all the helpful hints and reminders coming...... Cant wait till friday

 

We only have 11 days left until the apocalypse. You better get that thing repaired. LOL I think the myan that was chipping away at those stones just said the hell with it and stopped chipping. I am ready for the zombies at any time. Hope friday goes well for you.

 

LAMO yea times ticking...... I got to get her all set up and ..... DP comes in on the 12th so along with my .50c and do hutch/harpoon frx hpx and gun powder and lead, i should be ready . But i must say i get wore out from typing....... couldn't imagine chipping all that id be slap wo out

 

Sorry to bring this post back up but i had rain and house chores..... clearing up some of my property. So the .50c got delayed. Probably toward the end of this week now. But i do have another question.

Truck has 230k at the moment. I got it at 90k and have never been in or under the VCs. Its a late 99 built 6/99. I have read about a gp wire coming off and rubbing a rocker on a few other posts. I guess I'm wondering the condition of all the wiring in there. How do you think it will be ? reason i ask is if y'all have a suspicion it might be bad with the age and mileage..... think it might be a good idea to order up new gp wiring harness ? 38$ per side from bob i think, and new vc gaskets 68 per side from bob.

Whatcha think ? I hope i won't need to but man id shure hate to get in there and end up having to wait a week for parts.

 

It is really something that you have to look at and determine if you need it or not unless you have 200$ laying around to order the gasket and harness. Most of the problems with the harness' is that it comes partially unplugged. This can be just a little bit or it can be a lot unplugged. The more unplugged it is, the more likely you have a burnt pin. Remove the covers, investigate, order as necessary.
Dwayne