Ok, I am new to this site and hopefully someone here can save me from burning my son's new "used" truck. The passenger side exhaust manifold was leaking which we thought was due to a crack manifold. As we were dismantling the manifold it became apparent that not all bolts were going to come out. We were able to get two of the eight bolts out, the remaining 6 are at different stages. We have tried drilling a couple of them however the pilot drill snapped off in two of the remaining studs. We were able to drill one stud to a 1/4" diameter drill and tried using an extractor but whats left to the bolt doesn't want to budge. To boot it looks like we drilled into the water passage since this hole is now leaking coolant. I am at the point where I'm debating drilling and retapping?

If there is anyone here that wants to provide a christmas miracle we would be both very appreciative.

 

i haven't actually got to try this but heat those bolts up VERY! hot and then shove a candle on them really good. the candle wax should melt with no hesitation and just keep smashing the candle on them til it doesn't melt anymore, then grab them and twist them out but not with bare hands. other guys swear by this trick and also said it's one of those old timer tricks. hope it works for ya

 

Heat is your friend and some good penetrating fluid like PB Blaster

 

Been using heat and PB just can't seem to get anywhere. Switched between torches and MAPP Gas.

The first time I've heard of the wax trick, not sure how this one works.

Sprayed more PB this evening and will let is soak while I cool off...

Tomorrow's another day.

 

yep thats all you can do. just figured i'd put the wax trick out there to give ya another option. whats the worst that will happen it won't work? lol more pb blaster then

 

SOunds like you need a HEAD if your drilled into the water jacket

 

I thought I read in multiple spots on this forum that this would not be a big issue if use high temp sealant on the manifold bolt. I also read that some motors (not necessarily ford) actually come this way from the factory. Am I being mislead?

 

Cobalt tipped drill bits are your friend, E-Z outs seldom work on these.
Start with a small, sharp punch, to locate the drill in the center of the bolt, then drill it with a small cobalt drill to get started, then move up in size until the shell of the old bolt collapses and you can remove it with a needle nose pliers.

Re-tap holes as needed.

 

Old93junk I think you are spot on with the cobolt bits, went through a dozen of other bits until someone mentioned the cobolts. They drilled so easy compared to the standard bits we ended up nicking the water passage. Still need to get two of the old bits out of the bolt (snapped two 1/8" bits in the studs).

Thanks for the post.

 

Not really recommended, but I know of 2 vehicles that had the water-jackets nicked the same way.
After draining most of the coolant, the headers were installed and the bolt holes in question had their new bolts re-installed with plenty of JB weld...........Both are still running fine after several years, but I would not know how long to trust them.

 

Some engines seize their manifold studs over time. BB ford are the worst I know off. The best solution I have heard of is to never twist them off on the car.
If you have to remove the manifold and the bolts are going to twist off, use a rotary cutting tool and remove the bolt heads at the manifold leaving the studs portion left in the head. Now you will have something to work with in trying to get the pesty bas$%^ds out. With the heads removed, use a cutting toarch and heat the bolts to white hot and cool them quickly after they come back to room temperature they M I G H T come out.
EXTREMELY few people can free-hand drill out a 3/8" or smaller broken off bolt in the confines of the engine bay.
Take the head to a good machine shop after you fail and before you drill off center and ruin a head.
The hit-with-a-hammer impact will also work some.
Always use a low torque, set the torque to less than the breaking point of the bolt, impact wrench on bolts that MAY be seized, sometimes the hammering action will break it lose.
An air hammer with a rivit head helps to free them up too.
The last 23 year old 460 I overhauled required drilling out 6 exhaust bolts on the work bench, even after my best efforts and I have been wrenching for over 60 years now.
Some heads have the man bolts screwed into the water jacked, big block chrysler engines are that way on some of the bolts.
The head bolts on the flat-head GM engines screwed through the water jacked.
Those were really a problem after the first 20 years passed.
Good luck and happy wrenching.