1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Rear Axle Flip on bone stock 54 f100

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Old 12-08-2012, 11:49 AM
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Rear Axle Flip on bone stock 54 f100

i am in the process of lowering my truck and was wondering if i was going to come into any problems with drive shaft length with the rear axle flip???
Up until now my truck is all stock/no modifications... 223 6 cylinder with 3 on the tree, original rearend...


Front is done... Sid's 3" drop axle and I reversed the eyes on the main leafs... (about 5 inch drop in the front)... New tie rod and dropped tie rod ends worked out good as well...

transmission was pointing down 4 degrees, so the rearend was set up 4 degrees ...

comments/suggestions welcome!!!
goal is to keep it as low and factory as possible and not break down...
 
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Old 12-08-2012, 01:30 PM
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I don't see where the driveshaft length would be a problem, the axle flip would be within the suspension travel limits. You will need to C notch the frame. Don't go more than 1/2 the frame height, with plating, boxing, doublers, without adding material to the top of the frame to restore the height/strength. be sure to use bump stops, you DON'T want the axle hitting the metal frame. Also make sure you use shocks that won't bottom out.
 
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:57 PM
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that's good to hear...

i had the rear axle flip 90% complete last night... i got almost everything back together and went to install the drive shaft and i couldnt get it to fit... almost like it was too long.... it seemed fine when i was setting the pinion angle, and i didnt have a problem taking it apart after i set the pinion because i just pulled up on the rearend and it popped out...

it could of been hung up at the tranny, it could have been because i still had it up on the jackstands in the back only, or it could have been because i had been working on it by myself all day and needed to get in some couch time....

i have the mid50 c notch kit, but wasn't sure if i needed it or not... i was jumping on the rear end and it didn't seem like the frame would hit the axle...
 

Last edited by desi778; 12-08-2012 at 04:07 PM. Reason: because i can
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:51 AM
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drive shaft is definitely too long, it is bottoming out in the transmission... if it were a 1/4 inch shorter i could get it in the rearend...

i don't really think that i need to pay someone to shorten my drive shaft, seems like its a big waste of time and money...
i'm considering shaving down the yolk 1/2 inch or drilling new holes in the spring perches 1/2 back...
 
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:42 PM
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If you need a 1/4" to avoid bottoming with it sitting still, you need another 3/4" or so to account for the rear axle moving up when going over bumps etc. So you definitely want to get the DS shortened. I'd start from scratch, measure the DS length you need per the charts here:
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/app/...iagrams/b.html

Drilling the perches off-center is a bad idea
 
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Old 12-15-2012, 04:02 PM
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hey ax

the bump stop, at least the one in my 54 is so tall. approx 2". cuddent that b replaced with something much shorter and maybe avoid cutting the frame...maybe moving top shock mounts to more vert angle & use stiffer shocks?
 
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