Just scored a 74 Shortbed Styleside Explorer!!!
#1
Just scored a 74 Shortbed Styleside Explorer!!!
A friend of mine called me the other day and told me about a super clean 74 F100 Shortbed Styleside PU. I had about a million things to do and I blew all them off to go check out this truck and Im glad I did. Its in amazing shape. No rust and I drove it home. Now I am going to Paint it, Get the 360 running like new and have the seat Upholstered. It drives great but I think the 2 Barrel Carb needs to be rebuilt cause its not Idleing like I would like it to. The bed is like it has never been used, which tells me a lot about how the truck was used in its 90K Miles. The only thing that is missing on this truck is the Tailgate. Anyway I will post a few pictures of the truck tomorrow. Its been a while since I restored a Ford and Im looking forward to making this truck like new again...
JRB65
JRB65
#2
#4
When ordered on the base "Custom" model (that's how most Explorers were ordered) the tailgate was plain and had no trim, just the F-O-R-D was painted a contrasting color.
#7
Thanks for the picture of the Tailgate that will make looking for one a lot easier... I have to find all the attaching hardware because who ever took off the tailgate took it all off as well. The truck had a Campershell on it at one point in time and It looks like it extended down to where the Tailgate was... Im going to work the engine today to see if I can get it running right. It wont Idle down so I am going to set everything, Point Gap, Dwell, Timing, Fuel Air Mixture and hopefully it will run right when I get it all dialed in. So how do you set the dwell on a Ford? I have set the dwell on Chevys in the past but there was a allen head that went into the side of the distributor cap to set the dwell on the Chevys. Not sure where the adjustment is on a Ford. It has a 360CI V8 with a 2 Barrel Motorcraft Carb. If I cant get it to Idle Properly I am going to pull the Carb and rebuild it.
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#8
Dwell is set by properly adjusting the points. Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Bump the engine over until one of the lobes on the distributor cam is holding the points to their maximum opening. Slightly loosen both screws securing the points then, use a screwdriver in the notch at the end of the point set to adjust the point gap until correct. Tighten the two screws then recheck point gap. If correct, reinstall the rotor and cap then crank engine and set timing.
#9
Dwell is set by properly adjusting the points. Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Bump the engine over until one of the lobes on the distributor cam is holding the points to their maximum opening. Slightly loosen both screws securing the points then, use a screwdriver in the notch at the end of the point set to adjust the point gap until correct. Tighten the two screws then recheck point gap. If correct, reinstall the rotor and cap then crank engine and set timing.
JRB65
#10
Dwell is set by properly adjusting the points. Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Bump the engine over until one of the lobes on the distributor cam is holding the points to their maximum opening. Slightly loosen both screws securing the points then, use a screwdriver in the notch at the end of the point set to adjust the point gap until correct. Tighten the two screws then recheck point gap. If correct, reinstall the rotor and cap then crank engine and set timing.
#15
Dwell is the amount of time the points are closed I believe(or open, been a while) While the points are closed the coil is being charged, when the poiints open the charge is discharged out the coil wire into the dist. So, set the points to the right gap and if you had a dwell meter you could then check that. Usually is within specs. Good thing on the old chevys was the door in the cap to adjust dwell as the engine was running. I have an old Sun tune up kit that has a dwell meter.