Hello Gustave (aka Dr. G)

That is a very clean installation! I love the mil grade connectors. On the solder joints, there are some relatively new products out...butt connectors that have low temp solder and sealant in them with shrink tubing on the outside. If you heat it with the heat gun, the solder melts, followed quickly by the sealant, then the tubing shrinks and seals the ends. They are pretty slick. The solder solidifies almost as soon as you take the heat gun away. These things are great outside, like for wiring on a boat trailer that gets submerged. I like to seal things up in general to prevent the wire from corroding inside the insulation.

Dan

 

Old Dan,

where would one get these new type conectors They sound great

Doraville,

thanks, is that a micros soft product?

JimG

 

LibreOffice is an office suite that started life as StarOffice, was acquired by Sun Microsystems and released as OpenOffice, open source free software. Later, when Sun was acquired by Oracle, the main developers split off from OpenOffice and released LibreOffice.

I've used this office suite for years; I'll never pay to buy MS Office again.

 

Thanks,

just went online and saw it's download. As time gets closer I will try to do what you did with your wiring diagrams. this will be a total rewire job. I have stripped ALL OLD WIRING .

 

Just let me know when you get ready to start and I'll give you my source file so you don't have to recreate all the symbols.

 

Doraville,

thank you so much. I have just put thin in my save files for a little latter, i hope

JimG

 

Yes, those are called "solder sleeves" and I used those to attach wires to my braided shields, so that the shield contrinuity could be continued through a connector. My MSD distributor which I converted to an engine position module has two sensors (REF and SYNC) and both needed to be shielded. They do work really well.

My reservations about soldering wires or connectors is that the solder inevitably soaks into the strands. This has the effect of locally stiffening the wire which creates a stress riser as the wire moves around in a vibration environment. Over time the wire can fatigue and crack.

The Mil Spec or Motorsport crimping systems are centered around reducing stress risers or any other strain on the wiring.

What I use to splice wires is a little kit that is used in Motorsport. You have 4 different sizes of metal barrels, and a special crimp tool that is used to crimp the wires together at the very center of the barrel. Then you slide a piece of glue shrink over the barrel and heat it. But this is no ordinary glue shrink. This is the really special stuff that has a thick black glue. When complete the splice is impervious to moisture.

Gustave

 

The connectors that I used were ( I think) Amphenol brand. We use them in mil grade harnesses. I also found these from Krimpa-Seal: http://www.sherco-auto.com/krimpaseal.htm

Dan

 

Thanks Dan

 

I finished my wiring diagrams. It wound up being 8 pages. Since nothing on my truck is original other than the sheet metal (everything else is either aftermarket or from a later model vehicle) the drawings wound-up being fairly specific to my truck. I'm posting it here mainly as an example of one way to do it.

I'm sure that there are some errors (if I knew where they were I would fix them), but hopefully I'll catch them as I wire it. I also plan to fill-in the wire colors and size the fuses as I wire it.

Please let me know if you see anything that jumps out at you as not quite right. I've been staring at these drawings for weeks.

-DV

 

That is great work But like any great artist I would recommend that you sign your work. This will probably get sent around quite a bit as it is much easier to read than the Ford diagrams.

 

Thanks for the compliment, but I think I'll leave it unsigned and with a "Use at your own risk" disclaimer.

 

I am using a combination of the old doner harness and a new American Autowire power Plus 13. The doner harness controls the engine/injection system and the new harness everything else. It is not difficult to diet the doner harness but it is very time consumming and can drive you nuts at times. I have dieted several harnesses over the years but this time I called an old freind at www.wirediet.com . They had one of my old 5.0 harnesses and so I had Art diet the harness up for what I wanted. When he sent the harness back to me it was cleaned, freshly wraped and pre tested. All the conections were labeled, unnecessay sensors were bypassed and it is truely plug and play. I wish that I would of taken pictures of the completed harness before I started to install it. This is not the cheapest way to go but it is by far the easiest.

 

VERY nice! I did the old "wire for every terminal/terminal for every wire" strategy. So far...so good! Thanks for reminding me to pack the fire extinguisher.