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Help me with my wiring thoughts

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  #46  
Old 12-10-2012, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Doraville
My design is evolving as I go, but right now it looks like I may use five 6-circuit fuseboxes (Function, Location):
  1. Main, Engine compartment near battery
  2. Always ON, Passenger side kickpanel
  3. RUN, Drivers side kickpanel
  4. ACCESSORY, inside center firewall behind stereo
  5. LIGHTS- Engine compartment drivers side firewall
I realize that this seems like extreme overkill, but keep in mind that the fuseboxes themselves (except for the one used for the MAIN fusebox) are not very expensive and the main reason for splitting them up is to cut down on the "big old bundle of wires" phenomena and make it a little easier to troubleshoot in the future.

I do plan to produce detailed wiring diagrams when I'm done and keep a copy in the glove compartment.
I think your style will make it easier for people to understand the wiring involved. when all you see is that big bundle, it is intimidating. I like it.
 
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:48 PM
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Don't forget to check out my wiring too for ideas. Here's a link to the 1st of like 3 or 4 pages. Lots of pics.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...project-6.html
 
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano78
Don't forget to check out my wiring too for ideas. Here's a link to the 1st of like 3 or 4 pages. Lots of pics.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...project-6.html
Hi Dano, thanks for contributing!
 
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Dano78
Don't forget to check out my wiring too for ideas. Here's a link to the 1st of like 3 or 4 pages. Lots of pics.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...project-6.html
Very nicely done Dano.

Originally Posted by Dano78
...wiring up a rig this way really lends to educate ya on how everything works and how the electrical system as a whole operates...
Precisely! I've found that even though the wiring harness kits provide diagrams, they aren't specific to your truck, and they never include in the diagram how the fusebox itself is configured (which you really need to know when you're troubleshooting). I plan to show how my fuseboxes are wired internally, and even include how the steering column, ignition switch and headlight switch is wired internally.
 
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:05 AM
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Hey Jeff,

I don't know how I missed this thread.....to busy at work these days I guess.

If you can get a good harness from a donor vehicle, go for it! I went with a Painless harness...a 12 circuit which isn't as many as you might think. I waited until they had a $100 rebate at Summit racing for the harness and it ended up being $200. I've said it before, but you can't buy that much wire for $200 at the auto parts store. At one time we had a couple of surplus stores around here & they had deals on bulk wires and connectors, including the mil grade cannon plugs. Those places seem to be all but gone. If you find one in your area, take a look! There is one left in Santa Clara....I have found industrial sized rolls of shrik wrap for $5...a lifetime supply!!

On the Painless....it went in really well. It helps to lay it out on the floor ahead of time. The manaul had a mix of schematics and illustrations. There were only a few changes that I had to do....the gas gauge sending unit wire had to be routed inside instead of outside. I had to re-purpose a curcuit for the electric fuel pump. The connectors to mate to the GM steering column connector use a special crimp tool...I had one from my years in the aircraft industry....it's the same crimp tool for molex connectors, or for the pins on those cannon plugs. You could do that with needle nose pliers and some solder.

Dan
 
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Doraville
Very nicely done Dano.



Precisely! I've found that even though the wiring harness kits provide diagrams, they aren't specific to your truck, and they never include in the diagram how the fusebox itself is configured (which you really need to know when you're troubleshooting). I plan to show how my fuseboxes are wired internally, and even include how the steering column, ignition switch and headlight switch is wired internally.
Thanks! Yeah my fuse panel is as basic as it gets. The top 4 circuits are always hot and the remainder are Key-on hot. I think the panel is good for 14 circuits. All I'll ever need for this truck. No desire for power windows or A/C. And I agree, it's definitely nice to know how the column wiring, headlight sw., and ign. switches (not to forget the heater too) are configured. plays a big part on how you run everything together. Another one is knowing the 'loads' of each circuit and using the proper gauge wire for each.

Originally Posted by old_dan
Hey Jeff,

I don't know how I missed this thread.....to busy at work these days I guess.

If you can get a good harness from a donor vehicle, go for it! I went with a Painless harness...a 12 circuit which isn't as many as you might think. I waited until they had a $100 rebate at Summit racing for the harness and it ended up being $200. I've said it before, but you can't buy that much wire for $200 at the auto parts store. At one time we had a couple of surplus stores around here & they had deals on bulk wires and connectors, including the mil grade cannon plugs. Those places seem to be all but gone. If you find one in your area, take a look! There is one left in Santa Clara....I have found industrial sized rolls of shrik wrap for $5...a lifetime supply!!

On the Painless....it went in really well. It helps to lay it out on the floor ahead of time. The manaul had a mix of schematics and illustrations. There were only a few changes that I had to do....the gas gauge sending unit wire had to be routed inside instead of outside. I had to re-purpose a curcuit for the electric fuel pump. The connectors to mate to the GM steering column connector use a special crimp tool...I had one from my years in the aircraft industry....it's the same crimp tool for molex connectors, or for the pins on those cannon plugs. You could do that with needle nose pliers and some solder.

Dan
Definitely! I don't recall mentioning it in my build thread, but a large majority of the wiring I used was peeled from a later 70's truck harness. I sat in the shop a couple nights and completely unwrapped and peeled apart the entire harness. I laid aside individual wires that felt good, ohmed good, and had really pliable jacketing. I did this to source more wire colors (soild/stripe wires make this easy) since alot of this kinda wire isn't readily available these days. Dad had leftover spools of wire from his earlier wiring days of various colors and gauges that helped cut down on costs. Certainly having to buy all this material will make the pre-fabbed kits much more cost effective. Add to that all the connectors and whatnot. Sure I could have used a 'kit' but I wanted the truck wired a certain way and also the ability to 'back wire' which you cannot do with most pre-fab kits. Ron Francis and American Autowire can be 'back wired' but all the others only allow going forward. For my connectors i mainly used ones available from Ron Francis. The weather-pak GM style connectors work great too, but since the old man already was geared up with Ron Francis stock, i kept it that way. Another worthy tool to definitely have is a good quality crimper. One that can do professional crimps of various sizes. I picked one of these up from a vendor at a swap meet that came with several pairs of dies to crimp everything from spark plug wires to specialty spade ends. It was $75 very well spent and you'd swear it was crimped from the factory.

I do want to warn you all of the quality of some of these cheaper wiring kits. As I'm sure most know these are coming straight out of China. In alot of cases the jacketing can be thin, or the core (gage) can be smaller than it appears because the jacketing is thicker, thus appearing to be larger wire than it is. Also the jacketing itself can be made of poor material and stiffen up over a short time and possibly cause problems later on. Sometimes the quality of the fuse blocks can be left to be desired too. Just wanted to put that out there. Even though some of these kits are made overseas, doesn't necessarily mean they are bad, but i would be very cautious as quality control across the pond isn't like it is here in the 'states.
 
  #52  
Old 12-11-2012, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Dano78
Don't forget to check out my wiring too for ideas. Here's a link to the 1st of like 3 or 4 pages. Lots of pics.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...project-6.html
Dano, you may have mentioned it somewhere in the thread and I missed it, but I have a strong suspicion that your Dad may have wired aircraft at some point during his career. Very neat wiring job. I hope mine turns out half that neat.
 
  #53  
Old 12-11-2012, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Doraville
Dano, you may have mentioned it somewhere in the thread and I missed it, but I have a strong suspicion that your Dad may have wired aircraft at some point during his career. Very neat wiring job. I hope mine turns out half that neat.
Yeah not likely I don't think he'd have the patients to do aircraft! He's been a mechanic all his life including his stint in the Marines and later the Army. He's 64 and been a hot rodder all his life. Built several cars, even after my brother and I came into the picture. I know he was wiring up old cars for guys in the 70s and 80s when kits were basically non-existent. His health is against him now, so I'm glad we were able to at least do mine and i could absorb his knowledge. My plan is to wire up his two cars for him with what he's taught me. His ambition and strength just isn't there anymore.... it's the least i can do for him.
I'm sure yours will turn out just as good if not better. Take your time and don't rush it. Get a plan mapped out in your head or better yet, on paper. That will certainly help out!
 
  #54  
Old 12-11-2012, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by old_dan
Hey Jeff,

I don't know how I missed this thread.....to busy at work these days I guess.

If you can get a good harness from a donor vehicle, go for it! I went with a Painless harness...a 12 circuit which isn't as many as you might think. I waited until they had a $100 rebate at Summit racing for the harness and it ended up being $200. I've said it before, but you can't buy that much wire for $200 at the auto parts store. At one time we had a couple of surplus stores around here & they had deals on bulk wires and connectors, including the mil grade cannon plugs. Those places seem to be all but gone. If you find one in your area, take a look! There is one left in Santa Clara....I have found industrial sized rolls of shrik wrap for $5...a lifetime supply!!

On the Painless....it went in really well. It helps to lay it out on the floor ahead of time. The manaul had a mix of schematics and illustrations. There were only a few changes that I had to do....the gas gauge sending unit wire had to be routed inside instead of outside. I had to re-purpose a curcuit for the electric fuel pump. The connectors to mate to the GM steering column connector use a special crimp tool...I had one from my years in the aircraft industry....it's the same crimp tool for molex connectors, or for the pins on those cannon plugs. You could do that with needle nose pliers and some solder.

Dan
Hi Dan! I have a new Speedway Harness and my engine harness is from a 5.0 Mustang EEC IV MAF. So the engine harness and computer will get blended into the new stuff!
I have to get my 2nd try at a brake booster done and I also am wanting to ditch the Bronco II steering column and adapt the original column to keep the original look. also gonna use the original style turn signal switch.
Not sure about what to do with the horn yet, but that's later.
I may mount an old school horn button to the steering column.
 
  #55  
Old 12-13-2012, 05:13 AM
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Without getting into long explanation I just say I am pretty close to getting my truck on the road and just dont have time to read each and every post but I think I read you were going with F.I in your truck, I did the same with my 52, I used a mid eighties F.I 302 and the entire harness from donor truck, I did this without knowing how to use a multimeter which really isnt a big deal but maybe takes more time that way.

Maybe I can help if you need it, I did that without any help because I found so many conflicting opinions on how it should be done. I made my own hardline into the ECM because I did not want to run some of the bullshiz that the ECM told me it required to operate properly.

I mounted my ECM inside on the firewall, If you look at my prior posts you will see pics of my truck with 302 in it and you will see the ECM as it is mounted.

The 302 was a dog in that big truck, I am not looking to go fast ( not by any means ) but I was becoming critically close to sending a rod thru the block so out it went and I am putting something else in its place with less miles and hopefully better wear values.

If you want that ECM cover I made its yours, It isnt anything fancy but it looked OK in my truck but then again my truck is not a show truck. Shipping cost might be 10 bucks, just a guess.

My e-mail is jhason2@yahoo.com if you want it
 
  #56  
Old 12-13-2012, 07:32 PM
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Jeff,

I've been working on wiring diagrams and have attached the first few pages. Several more pages will be required; my intent is to have every wire in the truck documented, including wire color and termination points.

I have a GM tilt column, so the ignition switch and steering column harness are for that style column. I'm also using the same light switch used on 1987-2008 Ford pickups.

I'll try to post subsequent pages as I create them.

-DV
 
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  #57  
Old 12-13-2012, 08:24 PM
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Hi - i posted pics of my wiring project some time back. I recently finished converting to fuel injection. I used a stand alone programmable ECU by ViPec out of New Zealand (some ex MoTeC guys I understand). I went with sequential injection and ignition.

Regardless of what parts you use, I would say it is important to focus on strain relief. If you want your harness to be reliable, make sure that it is not putting strain on any connectors, splices etc.

I am also of the school of thought that nothing should be soldered, everything crimped and shrinked.

All the wire I use is Mil spec of some kind, 19 strand copper either silver or tin plated with a Teflon jacket. Surplus wire like this is very available on eBay.

Here's a couple of pics:












Gustave
 
  #58  
Old 12-13-2012, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Doraville
I've been working on wiring diagrams and have attached the first page, which is the main portion of the diagram. Several more pages will be required; my intent is to have every wire in the truck documented, including wire color and termination points.

I have a GM tilt column, so the ignition switch and steering column harness are for that style column. I'm also using the same light switch used on 1987-2008 Ford pickups.

I'll try to post subsequent pages as I create them.

-DV
Excellent work !!! Thanks for sharing. Very clean diagram.
 
  #59  
Old 12-13-2012, 08:41 PM
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Doraaville, did you make that diagram? Outstanding and clear
 
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by JimG1098
Doraaville, did you make that diagram? Outstanding and clear
Yes, I'm using OpenOffice (LibreOffice) Draw. Not really a schematic package, but it has the concept of wires and connections which was all that I needed.
 


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