Help me with my wiring thoughts
#46
My design is evolving as I go, but right now it looks like I may use five 6-circuit fuseboxes (Function, Location):
I do plan to produce detailed wiring diagrams when I'm done and keep a copy in the glove compartment.
- Main, Engine compartment near battery
- Always ON, Passenger side kickpanel
- RUN, Drivers side kickpanel
- ACCESSORY, inside center firewall behind stereo
- LIGHTS- Engine compartment drivers side firewall
I do plan to produce detailed wiring diagrams when I'm done and keep a copy in the glove compartment.
#47
Don't forget to check out my wiring too for ideas. Here's a link to the 1st of like 3 or 4 pages. Lots of pics.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...project-6.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...project-6.html
#48
Don't forget to check out my wiring too for ideas. Here's a link to the 1st of like 3 or 4 pages. Lots of pics.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...project-6.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...project-6.html
#49
Don't forget to check out my wiring too for ideas. Here's a link to the 1st of like 3 or 4 pages. Lots of pics.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...project-6.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...project-6.html
Precisely! I've found that even though the wiring harness kits provide diagrams, they aren't specific to your truck, and they never include in the diagram how the fusebox itself is configured (which you really need to know when you're troubleshooting). I plan to show how my fuseboxes are wired internally, and even include how the steering column, ignition switch and headlight switch is wired internally.
#50
Hey Jeff,
I don't know how I missed this thread.....to busy at work these days I guess.
If you can get a good harness from a donor vehicle, go for it! I went with a Painless harness...a 12 circuit which isn't as many as you might think. I waited until they had a $100 rebate at Summit racing for the harness and it ended up being $200. I've said it before, but you can't buy that much wire for $200 at the auto parts store. At one time we had a couple of surplus stores around here & they had deals on bulk wires and connectors, including the mil grade cannon plugs. Those places seem to be all but gone. If you find one in your area, take a look! There is one left in Santa Clara....I have found industrial sized rolls of shrik wrap for $5...a lifetime supply!!
On the Painless....it went in really well. It helps to lay it out on the floor ahead of time. The manaul had a mix of schematics and illustrations. There were only a few changes that I had to do....the gas gauge sending unit wire had to be routed inside instead of outside. I had to re-purpose a curcuit for the electric fuel pump. The connectors to mate to the GM steering column connector use a special crimp tool...I had one from my years in the aircraft industry....it's the same crimp tool for molex connectors, or for the pins on those cannon plugs. You could do that with needle nose pliers and some solder.
Dan
I don't know how I missed this thread.....to busy at work these days I guess.
If you can get a good harness from a donor vehicle, go for it! I went with a Painless harness...a 12 circuit which isn't as many as you might think. I waited until they had a $100 rebate at Summit racing for the harness and it ended up being $200. I've said it before, but you can't buy that much wire for $200 at the auto parts store. At one time we had a couple of surplus stores around here & they had deals on bulk wires and connectors, including the mil grade cannon plugs. Those places seem to be all but gone. If you find one in your area, take a look! There is one left in Santa Clara....I have found industrial sized rolls of shrik wrap for $5...a lifetime supply!!
On the Painless....it went in really well. It helps to lay it out on the floor ahead of time. The manaul had a mix of schematics and illustrations. There were only a few changes that I had to do....the gas gauge sending unit wire had to be routed inside instead of outside. I had to re-purpose a curcuit for the electric fuel pump. The connectors to mate to the GM steering column connector use a special crimp tool...I had one from my years in the aircraft industry....it's the same crimp tool for molex connectors, or for the pins on those cannon plugs. You could do that with needle nose pliers and some solder.
Dan
#51
Very nicely done Dano.
Precisely! I've found that even though the wiring harness kits provide diagrams, they aren't specific to your truck, and they never include in the diagram how the fusebox itself is configured (which you really need to know when you're troubleshooting). I plan to show how my fuseboxes are wired internally, and even include how the steering column, ignition switch and headlight switch is wired internally.
Precisely! I've found that even though the wiring harness kits provide diagrams, they aren't specific to your truck, and they never include in the diagram how the fusebox itself is configured (which you really need to know when you're troubleshooting). I plan to show how my fuseboxes are wired internally, and even include how the steering column, ignition switch and headlight switch is wired internally.
Hey Jeff,
I don't know how I missed this thread.....to busy at work these days I guess.
If you can get a good harness from a donor vehicle, go for it! I went with a Painless harness...a 12 circuit which isn't as many as you might think. I waited until they had a $100 rebate at Summit racing for the harness and it ended up being $200. I've said it before, but you can't buy that much wire for $200 at the auto parts store. At one time we had a couple of surplus stores around here & they had deals on bulk wires and connectors, including the mil grade cannon plugs. Those places seem to be all but gone. If you find one in your area, take a look! There is one left in Santa Clara....I have found industrial sized rolls of shrik wrap for $5...a lifetime supply!!
On the Painless....it went in really well. It helps to lay it out on the floor ahead of time. The manaul had a mix of schematics and illustrations. There were only a few changes that I had to do....the gas gauge sending unit wire had to be routed inside instead of outside. I had to re-purpose a curcuit for the electric fuel pump. The connectors to mate to the GM steering column connector use a special crimp tool...I had one from my years in the aircraft industry....it's the same crimp tool for molex connectors, or for the pins on those cannon plugs. You could do that with needle nose pliers and some solder.
Dan
I don't know how I missed this thread.....to busy at work these days I guess.
If you can get a good harness from a donor vehicle, go for it! I went with a Painless harness...a 12 circuit which isn't as many as you might think. I waited until they had a $100 rebate at Summit racing for the harness and it ended up being $200. I've said it before, but you can't buy that much wire for $200 at the auto parts store. At one time we had a couple of surplus stores around here & they had deals on bulk wires and connectors, including the mil grade cannon plugs. Those places seem to be all but gone. If you find one in your area, take a look! There is one left in Santa Clara....I have found industrial sized rolls of shrik wrap for $5...a lifetime supply!!
On the Painless....it went in really well. It helps to lay it out on the floor ahead of time. The manaul had a mix of schematics and illustrations. There were only a few changes that I had to do....the gas gauge sending unit wire had to be routed inside instead of outside. I had to re-purpose a curcuit for the electric fuel pump. The connectors to mate to the GM steering column connector use a special crimp tool...I had one from my years in the aircraft industry....it's the same crimp tool for molex connectors, or for the pins on those cannon plugs. You could do that with needle nose pliers and some solder.
Dan
I do want to warn you all of the quality of some of these cheaper wiring kits. As I'm sure most know these are coming straight out of China. In alot of cases the jacketing can be thin, or the core (gage) can be smaller than it appears because the jacketing is thicker, thus appearing to be larger wire than it is. Also the jacketing itself can be made of poor material and stiffen up over a short time and possibly cause problems later on. Sometimes the quality of the fuse blocks can be left to be desired too. Just wanted to put that out there. Even though some of these kits are made overseas, doesn't necessarily mean they are bad, but i would be very cautious as quality control across the pond isn't like it is here in the 'states.
#52
Don't forget to check out my wiring too for ideas. Here's a link to the 1st of like 3 or 4 pages. Lots of pics.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...project-6.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...project-6.html
#53
I'm sure yours will turn out just as good if not better. Take your time and don't rush it. Get a plan mapped out in your head or better yet, on paper. That will certainly help out!
#54
Hey Jeff,
I don't know how I missed this thread.....to busy at work these days I guess.
If you can get a good harness from a donor vehicle, go for it! I went with a Painless harness...a 12 circuit which isn't as many as you might think. I waited until they had a $100 rebate at Summit racing for the harness and it ended up being $200. I've said it before, but you can't buy that much wire for $200 at the auto parts store. At one time we had a couple of surplus stores around here & they had deals on bulk wires and connectors, including the mil grade cannon plugs. Those places seem to be all but gone. If you find one in your area, take a look! There is one left in Santa Clara....I have found industrial sized rolls of shrik wrap for $5...a lifetime supply!!
On the Painless....it went in really well. It helps to lay it out on the floor ahead of time. The manaul had a mix of schematics and illustrations. There were only a few changes that I had to do....the gas gauge sending unit wire had to be routed inside instead of outside. I had to re-purpose a curcuit for the electric fuel pump. The connectors to mate to the GM steering column connector use a special crimp tool...I had one from my years in the aircraft industry....it's the same crimp tool for molex connectors, or for the pins on those cannon plugs. You could do that with needle nose pliers and some solder.
Dan
I don't know how I missed this thread.....to busy at work these days I guess.
If you can get a good harness from a donor vehicle, go for it! I went with a Painless harness...a 12 circuit which isn't as many as you might think. I waited until they had a $100 rebate at Summit racing for the harness and it ended up being $200. I've said it before, but you can't buy that much wire for $200 at the auto parts store. At one time we had a couple of surplus stores around here & they had deals on bulk wires and connectors, including the mil grade cannon plugs. Those places seem to be all but gone. If you find one in your area, take a look! There is one left in Santa Clara....I have found industrial sized rolls of shrik wrap for $5...a lifetime supply!!
On the Painless....it went in really well. It helps to lay it out on the floor ahead of time. The manaul had a mix of schematics and illustrations. There were only a few changes that I had to do....the gas gauge sending unit wire had to be routed inside instead of outside. I had to re-purpose a curcuit for the electric fuel pump. The connectors to mate to the GM steering column connector use a special crimp tool...I had one from my years in the aircraft industry....it's the same crimp tool for molex connectors, or for the pins on those cannon plugs. You could do that with needle nose pliers and some solder.
Dan
I have to get my 2nd try at a brake booster done and I also am wanting to ditch the Bronco II steering column and adapt the original column to keep the original look. also gonna use the original style turn signal switch.
Not sure about what to do with the horn yet, but that's later.
I may mount an old school horn button to the steering column.
#55
Without getting into long explanation I just say I am pretty close to getting my truck on the road and just dont have time to read each and every post but I think I read you were going with F.I in your truck, I did the same with my 52, I used a mid eighties F.I 302 and the entire harness from donor truck, I did this without knowing how to use a multimeter which really isnt a big deal but maybe takes more time that way.
Maybe I can help if you need it, I did that without any help because I found so many conflicting opinions on how it should be done. I made my own hardline into the ECM because I did not want to run some of the bullshiz that the ECM told me it required to operate properly.
I mounted my ECM inside on the firewall, If you look at my prior posts you will see pics of my truck with 302 in it and you will see the ECM as it is mounted.
The 302 was a dog in that big truck, I am not looking to go fast ( not by any means ) but I was becoming critically close to sending a rod thru the block so out it went and I am putting something else in its place with less miles and hopefully better wear values.
If you want that ECM cover I made its yours, It isnt anything fancy but it looked OK in my truck but then again my truck is not a show truck. Shipping cost might be 10 bucks, just a guess.
My e-mail is jhason2@yahoo.com if you want it
Maybe I can help if you need it, I did that without any help because I found so many conflicting opinions on how it should be done. I made my own hardline into the ECM because I did not want to run some of the bullshiz that the ECM told me it required to operate properly.
I mounted my ECM inside on the firewall, If you look at my prior posts you will see pics of my truck with 302 in it and you will see the ECM as it is mounted.
The 302 was a dog in that big truck, I am not looking to go fast ( not by any means ) but I was becoming critically close to sending a rod thru the block so out it went and I am putting something else in its place with less miles and hopefully better wear values.
If you want that ECM cover I made its yours, It isnt anything fancy but it looked OK in my truck but then again my truck is not a show truck. Shipping cost might be 10 bucks, just a guess.
My e-mail is jhason2@yahoo.com if you want it
#56
Jeff,
I've been working on wiring diagrams and have attached the first few pages. Several more pages will be required; my intent is to have every wire in the truck documented, including wire color and termination points.
I have a GM tilt column, so the ignition switch and steering column harness are for that style column. I'm also using the same light switch used on 1987-2008 Ford pickups.
I'll try to post subsequent pages as I create them.
-DV
I've been working on wiring diagrams and have attached the first few pages. Several more pages will be required; my intent is to have every wire in the truck documented, including wire color and termination points.
I have a GM tilt column, so the ignition switch and steering column harness are for that style column. I'm also using the same light switch used on 1987-2008 Ford pickups.
I'll try to post subsequent pages as I create them.
-DV
#57
Hi - i posted pics of my wiring project some time back. I recently finished converting to fuel injection. I used a stand alone programmable ECU by ViPec out of New Zealand (some ex MoTeC guys I understand). I went with sequential injection and ignition.
Regardless of what parts you use, I would say it is important to focus on strain relief. If you want your harness to be reliable, make sure that it is not putting strain on any connectors, splices etc.
I am also of the school of thought that nothing should be soldered, everything crimped and shrinked.
All the wire I use is Mil spec of some kind, 19 strand copper either silver or tin plated with a Teflon jacket. Surplus wire like this is very available on eBay.
Here's a couple of pics:
Gustave
Regardless of what parts you use, I would say it is important to focus on strain relief. If you want your harness to be reliable, make sure that it is not putting strain on any connectors, splices etc.
I am also of the school of thought that nothing should be soldered, everything crimped and shrinked.
All the wire I use is Mil spec of some kind, 19 strand copper either silver or tin plated with a Teflon jacket. Surplus wire like this is very available on eBay.
Here's a couple of pics:
Gustave
#58
I've been working on wiring diagrams and have attached the first page, which is the main portion of the diagram. Several more pages will be required; my intent is to have every wire in the truck documented, including wire color and termination points.
I have a GM tilt column, so the ignition switch and steering column harness are for that style column. I'm also using the same light switch used on 1987-2008 Ford pickups.
I'll try to post subsequent pages as I create them.
-DV
I have a GM tilt column, so the ignition switch and steering column harness are for that style column. I'm also using the same light switch used on 1987-2008 Ford pickups.
I'll try to post subsequent pages as I create them.
-DV
#60