I've owned this truck for about 3 months. It is an early '04/'03 motor (icp under turbo) that has 265k on it. In this time I have changed the oil with motorcraft filters and rotella t6, changed fuel filters with motorcraft, and changed the air filter (I believe it was Fram). I've also replaced both batteries and the icp sensor. The PO was the original owner. When he had the truck he replaced the ficm and all the injectors. He also had the turbo worked on, I believe the vgt solenoid. I can't remember for sure, but I think he told me that the oil cooler was also replaced. Per the PO, all work was done by Ford dealers. I have not gotten an oasis report, how much does it cost for this? He did have it serviced regularly, with motorcraft filters and synthetic oil, not sure what brand.
The problem I'm having has been around since I first bought the truck, but seems worse the colder it gets. The truck starts in 3-4 seconds, and runs a bit rough for a few seconds and clears up. I figure I have a gp or 2 that are getting weak. It's not showing any codes on my SGII. It will sit and idle great, and will kick up to high idle and sounds perfect. Even after warming up to 150+ EOT, the first time I accelerate it will run up the rpm's and blow whitish/grey smoke. If I let off the accelerator and try again it will respond with full power. If I try to go anywhere without letting it warm up to at least 125 EOT it will barely pull itself down the road. It will run the rpm's up high and blow lots of smoke, the only way to gain speed is to let off the accelerator so it will shift and keep going that way. I might barely make it to 25-30 mph and will stay there until I break 125*, after that it will kick in and run like it should. Every once in a while it will blow smoke for a few seconds until you let off the pedal.
I've tried reading here as much as possible to figure out my problems. I've been suspecting stiction is the problem. I've been running hot shot's secret for the last 1500 miles. It seemed to help for a few days, but I'm not noticing any improvement now. I did pull the egr valve and it was completely gunked up. It appeared that it's possibly been replaced, as the part looks much newer than the rest of the motor. I cleaned it up the best I could with 2 cans of carb cleaner and a brush and re-installed. I figure that I need new o-rings for it, but the ford dealer isn't open today. My ficm voltages are all good, with fmp never going below 47.5. My battery voltage is good, and the alternator is charging correctly at 14.1-14.3. The only time the truck hasn't started is when the icp went bad. I do think that my thermostat needs replaced, as the highest temp I've seen has been 182-184 at 80mph. Also, I am not losing coolant and the oil level doesn't appear to have changed. I'm about due for an oil change here in the next month, and was planning on getting the archoil stuff to put in this go round. Does this sound like stiction, or???
04 F350 Super Duty (early 03 motor)CC 4x4 Lariat FX4, 6.0 PowerStroke, Torqueshift, 265/75/R16, blue spring upgrade, sgII
Bad Injector Oring could be the cause you would have Fuel in the Oil But you will have to watch the Oil leval Very Close and it will smell like Diesel fuel
My inject orings went bad I found oil leval High Kinda smelled like Diesel fuel so I drained some oil to get it Midway on the oil dipstick. Then After 2-3 weeks oil leval was High again on the silver part the dipstick at this Point I knew what was up replaced all inject oring All the cold drivability problems went away. I had all the symtoms you have run bad wouldnt shift right Till truck got warm
Them Orings can wear over time and leak when cold and then when Hot Expand and seal and drive good again
Or could be you havea Bad inject or 2
or Bad EGR Valve unplug egr valve and then start and drive cold see if it goes away or not
Have you changed Fuel Filters yet????????
Benny oem hpop 1/8/14,update ipr screen
2003 6.0, 4X4 srw, short box, born on 3/28/03 Moog ball joints,DC POWER 190A ALT Duralast Goldtop batterys 10/7/2012,RECON LED SMOKE MIRROR LENS,4 inch turbo back magnaflo exhaust,no kitty, 6 in. lift, BFG 315/75r16, python remote start alarm,pioneer system2 12''subs 1600watt amps ,scangaugeII,coolant filter, blue fuel pres spring, Fresh oil cooler 6/1/11 Final Charge Cat EC-1 rated Silicate Free ELC coolant, Sinister Full egr deleate, ROTELLA T-6 5w-40syn,updatedHPO screen,updated oil filter stand pipe, TC SX8000
Get the Oasis report, my local dealer provided that free of charge to me even though I didn't purchase from them. See if it indicates when the last flash took place. While I don't know the exact date, the latest flash seems to have a lot of improvements for cold starts. If you're not on the latest flash, that's something to consider. There are many who have experienced reduced fuel economy with the latest flash, but my truck did not so it's something to research.
My truck used to suffer from very similar issues that you are seeing now. I was afraid to pull out into traffic as it had almost no power until 150 degrees. Initially, I ran Rev-X which made a significant improvement in cold weather. This past summer, I lost both HPOP and FICM. Since their replacement, OEM except the FICM was repaired by Ed with the Economy tune added, a new ICP and IPR, my cold starts have been excellent even with 10W-30 conventional oil. Last oil change I went back to T6 and introduced Archoil 9100 to the oil along with 6200 for the fuel (not for cold starts). I also have the blue fuel pump spring.
Prior to the summer my FICM tested fine with a meter. With all the above, current flash, new HPOP, ICP, IPR, FICM, and Archoil my truck starts and runs perfectly at temperatures < 30 degrees. I suspect as it gets colder, it will remain just as good.
I have no idea if your truck is similar, but that's what resolved my stiction WITHOUT touching an injector, all factory injectors still. If you consider that the injectors need proper fuel pressure, proper HIGH pressure oil, latest flash and proper voltage to the spool valves then insuring all of these are 100% would be beneficial. Aside from that, having a bad injector may be the culprit, and many have found relief with Rev-X or Archoil prior to replacement. A lot of guys consider these additives to be snake oil, but unless it caused my HPOP failure, it's been very beneficial to me.
2003 F-250 Crew Cab Short Bed Lariat PSD 6.0 Automatic FX4 Edge Insight with EGT Probe. DieselSite Coolant Filter. ALL 6.0's need gauges
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