1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

no start, no smoke, just replaced up-pipes... related?

  #1  
Old 12-02-2012, 02:44 PM
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no start, no smoke, just replaced up-pipes... related?

hello all,
I've been searching and reading the forums. Forgive me for yet another "no start" thread... I know this is asked alot, but I haven't found anything that's helped so far.

I've run into a strange/frustrating problem. I started with an up-pipe leak, I ordered and installed the international bellows but have had a hell of a time tracking down exhaust leaks. I've probably had the turbo in/out 5 or so times. In addition to this, I got the hpx from RiffRaff, so each time I had the turbo out, I also had the hpx pulled. As a result, it leaked a bit of oil down into the valley and down the back of the motor. After each time I removed/reinstalled the turbo, collector, etc, the truck would start up (eventually, it always takes 2 or three cycles of the glow pulgs to get it to fire up, then it pours white smoke for a bit... probably the GPR or UVCH which is next on my list).

The last time, I had put the turbo in but the EPBV plug got caught under the collector flange. I tried to start the truck anyways (with it unplugged) and it wouldn't fire up. It just cranked over and over again (WTS light came on, RPM's registered on the gauge, no smoke). I thought it was that plug, so I pulled the turbo again and found that I had also pinched an o-ring below the pedestal. I replaced that o-ring, plugged in the epbv and tried again, nothing changed. I was kind of surprised that there wasn't a bunch of oil all over the place since the o-ring wasn't seated correctly.

I did some searching and have been trying/checking various things. I found that I was about a quart low on oil, so I added some. I also found that the HPOP resivor was pretty low (used a zip tie as a dip stick, it only had about an inch or so from the bottom) so I filled that up as well. Still no love.

I found some oil in the ICP sensor plug, so I unplugged that and still no change, but I have found that each time I try to start it up, the oil level in the HPOP drops.

After removing and reinstalling the turbo so many times, I'm starting to wonder if I pinched or messed up something in the process? I understand that oil in the ICP means it's gone/going bad, but my understanding is the truck would still fire up with it unplugged, so that leads me to believe that while the ICP is going bad, it's not the reason the truck won't start up now but I could be wrong.

I only have a scangauge II, so I'm unable to check for codes (tho the scangauge shows 72 codes stored... I'm just not sure if that's right since this is ODBI). Since it won't run, I can't get it anywhere to run the buzz test either.

Any ideas on what I should check/test next?

This is a 95 f250 7.3 with a little over 250k. It has always run, just not great due to up-pipe exhaust leaks.
 
  #2  
Old 12-02-2012, 03:48 PM
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I've also checked the fuel bowl (it's full), and both tanks are full. No blown fuses either
 
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Old 12-02-2012, 05:06 PM
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Is your truck a California truck?
 
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Old 12-02-2012, 06:40 PM
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I don't believe so.. no cat's, no muffler either. From what I can find the way to tell is if it has a glow plug relay or a control module, mine has the GPR.

the DSO code looks like 56
 
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:36 PM
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I also have the GPR. The reason I ask is the California model in 1995 was OBDIi
 
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:37 PM
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That is OBD II
 
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:38 PM
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You should be able to pull the codes and post them up here for us to see.
 
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:42 AM
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My understanding is that while there's odbii connection, ford pcm's don't communicate properly. All of my codes are listed as P0000. I guess I need to track down a scanner that works with ford.

Any other ideas?

It kind of seems like it's an oil pressure issue since the HPOP doesn't get replenished while cranking. combined with the fact that the pinched o-ring didn't cause a big mess while trying to turn it over before I R&R'd it to plug in the ebpv.
 
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:17 PM
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I think you probably have a much simpler problem than a bad LPOP; they aren't know for failing in these engines. I don't think the EBPV connector has anything to do with it, but there is a chance it may.... Do you get a "Wait to Start" light when you turn the key on? How long does it stay lit (approximately)?

Are your batteries fully charged? Is the engine cranking over at a decent clip or is it slower than normal? You have to have good strong batteries and a good starter to get these beasts to fire.
 
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:21 PM
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Well, I finally got a buddy to come over and crank the engine while I checked fuel pressure... it took a bit for the pressure to build (gauge jumped a couple psi with each crank of the engine, once it got to about 25 psi, it fired right up then the pressure jumped to about 50psi and bounced around there as it idled. Very odd.

To answer the question above, yes, brand new batteries, and I had jumped it to my other truck just to be sure there was enough juice since I'd heard it takes a good bit to start this thing up. The cranking was strong and sounded like normal. Also, I made sure I had the WTS light before posting... it comes on for 10-20 seconds, I can hear the GPR cycle and it was at 90 seconds. I tried my best to search and troubleshoot before posting. I'm not new to wrenching, but I usually work on (and build) toyota rock crawlers, not ford diesels (this is my "new" tow rig).

I have no idea how or why it fired up this afternoon. The only difference was holding a fuel pressure gauge on the shrader valve. I stopped/started it a few times without the gauge and it's starting like normal.

thanks for the help, both here and in other threads that I searched/read while working on this thing.
 
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:28 PM
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Good deal! I guess that was a simple fix...well, almost, lol. Glad to hear it is running again. Having to have taken it apart that many times may have allowed you to get a good deal of air in the High Pressure Oil System, which can make them hard to start. At any rate, good luck with the truck!
 
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:32 PM
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As a bonus, I have no more exhaust leaks. And I can now R&R a turbo and up-pipe collector in less than an hour lol.
 
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by mrdoug
As a bonus, I have no more exhaust leaks. And I can now R&R a turbo and up-pipe collector in less than an hour lol.
When I do my turbo, you can come help me then....
 
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by mrdoug
Well, I finally got a buddy to come over and crank the engine while I checked fuel pressure... it took a bit for the pressure to build (gauge jumped a couple psi with each crank of the engine, once it got to about 25 psi, it fired right up then the pressure jumped to about 50psi and bounced around there as it idled. Very odd.
50 PSI is a little low....perhaps you can try the FPR mod...It requires a BB.
 
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:02 PM
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It has been taking about 10 seconds to turn over each time since. Seems little long (not sure how long my batteries will last at this rate).

I'll search/read up on the FPR mod.. what's BB?
 

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