I'm in the process of trying to replace the passenger side valve cover gasket on my 2002 F150 w/5.4. My Haynes manual is a bit misleading, and I need some advice for those who have done this before.
I'm to the point where I have removed all the valve cover bolts, but cannot get the valve cover out due to interference by the wiring harnesses between the valve cover and the firewall. I've disconnected the harness from the fuel injectors, coils, A/C compressor and crank position sensor. Have also disconnected the big multi-pin plugs that are mounted to the firewall next to the battery. How do you get these harnesses out of the way so that the valve cover can be lifted directly off? Haynes says to disconnect the heater hose at the back of the engine, which may make a bit of extra room, but I don't see any way I can get back there with a pair of pliers to disconnect this.

I'm hoping to get this truck back on the road by end-of-day tomorrow.

Thanks!

 

Basically you need a tool similar to this and may be able to find one cheaper at tool supply businesses.

MST9344 HEATER HOSE DISCONNECT TOOL

 

Thanks for the reply.
- Are you sure that's the tool for the job? The hose in question has what looks to be a spring clamp, that would require a clamping force (pliers) to disconnect.
- Do you know first-hand whether removing the heater hose will allow me to get the wiring harness out of the way of the valve cover?

 

Maybe your truck uses this style of clamp.

Mayhew Tools , 28650 Spring Loaded Hose Clamp Pliers

 

I replaced all of the coolant hoses on my '97 4.6L earlier this year. At the rear-most tube on the engine (this tube bolts onto back of head and goes on through the V to the rear of the waterpump), it had a spring clamp positioned with the fingers of the clamp facing the firewall. So its back and down.

No way I could get it with pliers of any type I had. I finally got it off by using a small C-clamp. The C-clamp had to open far enough to fit over the installed clamp's fingers, but needed to be small enough to get in there. I had a canvas painters tarp folded over and over laid across radiator support and engine, and laid down on that to get back there with two hands.

With the C-clamp over the fingers of the spring clamp, I carefully tightened the C-clamp. It took a while, as I had to keep sliding the C-clamps's turning bar back through to the other side twice per revolution, because otherwise it hit stuff. Once tight enough, I carefully slid the clamp up on the hose using both hands, fearing that at any minute the C-clamp would slide off of the spring clamp and I would have to start all over.

When I put the new hose on, I positioned the clamp so its fingers faced forward instead... which puts it real close to a small electrical connector. I think they positioned the clamp's fingers to the back to avoid posible interference there. The new hose (Motorcraft) had the clamp area and clamp position marked with white lines, which I disregarded.

That tube's clamp was by far the hardest of the job.

 

Torky2, that's the same situation I was facing with the heater hose. Sounds like a real PITA. Luckily I was able to wrangle the valve cover out this morning without having to remove that hose.

Now that I have the cover off, I think I've identified the problem area, but would love to have some reassurance. When I first noticed the oil leak, the oil seemed to be dripping from the bottom of the thermostat housing, down into the intake valley, then off the back of the motor, around to the starter area and onto my driveway.
Bottom of thermostat housing/intake valley:



With the valve cover removed, it appears that the gasket was leaking just behind the dab of RTV by the timing chain cover (assumption is based on the fact that the mating surface on the head is clean in this area)



Does it seem likely that oil would be pushed through this are with enough force to cause a significant leak? Is there any oil passage that would possibly be above this point on the motor?