Hey guys so i took my hubs out today and pulled them apart, regreased them etc. they looked ok. I put them back in and no dice they don't engage unless i manually lock them. Last year while i had my wheel bearings replaced i had them dig into the 4x4 system and they had no luck. I have spent more money then i wanted to to get my 4x4 back and its still not working. My vents do not default to defrost and my transfer case works because i can use the **** and manually engage. Any ideas? maybe my vacuum solenoid or something is gone? whats the symptoms for that? I'm on the verge of pulling the system and throwing manual hubs in, i have spent over $1000 on the front end and I really dont want to spend much more. 04 F250 5.4l btw. Thanks in advance!

 

I would recommend manual hubs.

 

Yes manual hubs are what you need... I recommend Warn Premiums.

 

xmontex4 you state they engage when yoy manualy lock them so why replace them with manual locking hubs

 

You've already spent a bundle on the ESOF with no joy. Were I in this situation I'd leave the ESOF hubs in and just use them as manuals.

 

+1 This makes the most sense. Just use your factory hubs as manuals.

 

I dumped the factory ones because when you would use them as manuals and turn them back to automatic position one or the other would stick 9 times out of 10. I got sick of trying to get them unlocked. New warns click them to lock and they lock click them to unlock they unlock. No hassles.

 

I was intending using the autos as a manual and not changing them, however in the past i have had issues with them sticking so in the event that they start to become a pain and re-greasing doesn't help that's when ill switch them out. No ideas though for getting the ESOF fixed? I don't mind using them as manual, only crappy thing is my new rims will cover the hubs when i get them but i guess if i know I'm going to need them during the summer ill remove the center caps (XD Monsters). I will only be using them in the summer anyway. How hard is it to remove the setup other than capping the lines? do you have to remove the axle nipple things?

 

Its about a 1/2 hour job if you take your time. You just remove the lock ring around the factory hub take them off install the new hub body with the new lock ring and bolt on the outside locking peice.

 

Just went through this on mine. If you don't mind manual hubs get a set and be done with it. Cap the vacuum line from the engine to the esof switch behind the battery. I went with superwinch and they function great. Anthony

 

I would recommend NOT switching to manual hubs since the ESOF is important enough to you to spend $1,000 trying to fix it. The system is designed to operate correctly when everything is working, and yours has a problem.

I'm not the expert on these systems but from what I can tell one of three things is happening:

1. Something isn't sealing right in your knuckles. Has anyone checked with a vacuum pump to see whether or not it holds a vacuum? Since your vents don't default to defrost when you try to shift into 4WD I don't think this is it, but it would be the first step.

2. Something isn't right with the lockout hubs. This could be either a vacuum leak that's identified in the previous step. Go to THIS PAGE and follow the instructions to disassemble and lube up your lockout hubs.

3. Something isn't right with the solenoids that control the lockout hubs. I don't know the details, but a simple way to check would be to use a vacuum gauge or pump and see if a vacuum is applied to the hubs. To do this you'll need to remove the vacuum lines from both sides, cap one of the lines, start the engine, and measure the other with a gauge. You should see at least 10 in-Hg of vacuum for 45 seconds. Then with the engine still running have a buddy switch the truck to 2WD and watch for between 5.8 and 7.3 in-Hg of vacuum for 15 seconds.

If vacuum is applied correctly to the hubs, the lockout hubs are working correctly, and the knuckle is sealing then the system will work correctly.

 

Certainly agree with Toms thoughts which is why I said to consider changing if you don't mind manual hubs. If the oe setup is working correctly it will be more convenient. After taking apart my hubs and servicing them I could only get one to operate consistently. I replaced all hubs seals and orings, had proper vacuum but couldn't get one to engage or disengage consistently. I then had the choice to buy a new ford hub or used one and chose new manual ones. I was just happy I had the choice. Anthony

 

1- first you need to check the rubber line from the frame to the nipple on the hub for cracks etc and id just spend five bucks and replace them.
2- remove the nipple from the knuckle and clean it out, my dads passenger side was clogged up with rust and wouldnt allow the pump to pull vacuum.
3- are you 100% positive the yellow o-ring on the unit bearing is sealing and not ripped
4- go get a small vacuum gauge from Napa, HomeDepot and hook it to one of the rubber hoses for the hubs and turn the 4x4 on. if your pump is workingit will pull a vacuum

 

i actually LOVED my vacuum hubs the only reason i junked them for Warns was becasue they wouldnt turn to Lock anymore even after i tried to clean and regrease them. And the almost 500 dollars from the dealer for new ones is out of sight!

 

Mine go through stages where I can turn mine very easily either. A little PB Blaster and let it sit a while then use this,

Do not use pliers as you can break the hub. This won't and can be picked up at Home Depot for under $3. A 2" x 3' piece of thick walled pvc. Take something a cut a 1/2" to 3/4" gap out of each side and use it to turn the hubs when needed. Puts a lot more torque on them and is safer than pliers. I've taken mine all the way apart and tried every fix I've found on the forums, but still stick occasionally.