Well, I changed the filter and cap to the correct parts, installed the new battery and charged the other one, and changed the oil while I was there. My ICP climbed from 20psi to 65psi. Obviously still way short of starting, but it still went up. Just not sure why. The correct oil filter/cap was longer so I was hoping. I went back and looked at the IPR that I took out and inspected the trashed screen. It looks more like the plastic piece going across the screen got pinched and pushed the screen in. There was no debris in the IPR other that the screen. When I changed the oil, the pan bolt is magnetic, but there wasn't anything stuck to it. I'm still not sure what is going on. I have some time this weekend, so I will deadhead the IPR and check the pump. I talked with manager of the International fuel shop that sold me the HPOP. He said he has sold 73 of those pumps this year and not one of them has failed. He also said if one in a hundred goes he is due. lol. He did say if I deadhead the pump and ICP doesn't shoot up they will definitely warranty the pump. I just don't want to do all of that labor again and buy gaskets if that isn't it. I guess I will find out this weekend. If you have any other ideas, I am open to suggestions.

Thanks for all of the responses so far!

 

Sorry, repeat post.

 

Just curious, if the ipr was not plugged in what psi would I be seeing?

 

0psi

Default position is open

If the IPR screen was pushed time for new IPR

 

Ok, I have replaced the IPR and the HPOP. I just got it all back together and cranked it a long time. The best I get is 66 PSI on the ICP. I am FRUSTRATED!! I replaced all of the orings in in the HP oil rails and injectors in March,(3000 miles ago).

One thing I noticed is I just changed the oil a week ago and I have cranked it many long times since then. When I tore it down I see the fresh oil in the filter housing and other places, but when I pulled the HPOP the oil at the inlet was darker oil like what I changed out. To me that meant the pump wasn't pumping the oil through to a leak downstream from the pump. I am still considering not enough low oil pressure starving the hpop.

Where can I hook up a gauge to the low oil pressure system to get an accurate
reading?

Also what size hex bolt is that on the low oil pressure regulator? It is bigger that what I have and I want to buy the right one.

Where is the high oil pressure reservoir?

 

Also how much play should there be in the tube that attached to the top of the HPOP. This is an early '03.

 

Middle Picture Page#24 Below




IDK DONT YOU HAVE THE OEM BOLT??????????????



Here the LPO reservoir^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Bottom Pic It Directly under the Oil Filter and OIL COOLER Start at the Filter and Dig your way down

 

Here is where I get all these Pictures from Below


*


CLICK HERE^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^THE TINY STAR ABOVE

 

Blades, Thanks for the pics and the link!! Yes I have the OEM bolt, I just had to buy a 12mm hex socket to fit it. I checked the LP regulator and it seems to be fine. I will tear back down in the next couple of days and check the low oil pressure with a tester I just got. If everything looks fine there I will pull the valve covers and do an air test. If nothing there I will pull the oil cooler to check the reservoir. I'm not looking forward to this again. Is the seal for the outlet tube of the HPOP replaceable? It seemed a little loose, but not too much. There is no STC fitting there, but I just thought maybe I am leaking there?

 

You could Also screw a LPO Tester into the LPO Sensor Hole might be easier

Also can crank with filter out Housing Open and hold down the Drain with screwdriver if the Oil Filterhousing Fills Fast then its ok
worth checking the LPO Filter housing drain to maybe broken

When you did Injector Orings Did you use the FORD Oring Kits?????

 

Yeah, I am going to check at the port on the filter housing if I can reach it. I used Alliant injector kits with the oil rail o-rings on all 8. I just can't believe that one of them failed after 3k miles, but crazier things have happened. I checked with the filter out and it does fill. I'm just not sure of the rate or pressure. I figure if I get a gauge reading I will know where I'm at and if it is good, I can just concentrate on the HP side.

 

Well, I'm showing 58psi on the test gauge plugged into the temp sensor port on top of the oil cooler. Looks like the valve covers are coming off for an air check.

 

Well, I found my problem. The high pressure oil line from the standpipe to the rail snapped off at the rail. So the good news is I found the catastrophic failure I was looking for. The bad news is I can't get a wrench down to the standpipe fitting to take the line off. Any ideas?

 

so the steel braided line came OFF the Rail

They do have a Quick Connect fitting threre is it Possible it came apart there it takes a Special Tool to get it apart

Dont think you need to replacethe standpipe Just maybe the rail and or Braided Line But I could bde wrong

can you post a Pic

 

Just got back from the Ford parts dept. Sure enough it was the fitting that snapped in half. The rail still had the screwed in part and it sheared off flush with the rail. I used an extractor to get that out and was able to pry the quick connect part out of the oil line. The new part should be here in the morning. $69. so not so bad. This is what I get for over thinking things. I just couldn't fathom a leak that bad from the rail since all of the o-rings were new. I really didn't expect something that strong to snap like that. I wish I had pulled the valve cover earlier. Live and learn I suppose. I have definitely learned a lot about this motor this year. The good news is everything I did to it in March still looks great and this should be a fluke problem, so hopefully things will go smooth after this. I have to work tomorrow so I will probably get it back up on Friday. I will let you know what happens.