I have a 1963 f100 223 and I am wondering what all goes into boosting it up a bit. Can I go to a 300 by having it bored? What does this usually cost?

 

Someone correct me if I'm off, but the 223 in stock form has a bore of 3.625 and a stroke of 3.000. To get to 300 cubes using just the bore you'd have to go out to 4.200 inches. I think you'd have no cylinder walls left if you took it out more than half an inch (.575). Most boring stops at .060 since you start to get into overheating problems and other concerns when the cylinder walls get too thin.

There are headers and aftermarket intake manifolds for the 223 (Clifford Performance for example) and you can always boost compression some since it's only spec'ed at 7.2:1. Shaving the deck and milling the head are a couple of options.

Costs vary a great deal from one machine shop to another. All depends on who is doing the work.

 

Cool thanks for the input TA. So would jsut starting off with the clifford manifold will that make a big difference? I dont need TONS of more power I just want to get the best out of this engine without going totally overboard.

 

Many of the Clifford manifolds are designed for a 4 bbl carb. If you currently are running a 1 bbl carb then, generally speaking, switching to a 4 bbl carb is going to alter your power curve, especially when the secondaries start to open up. Should give a definite "seat of the pants" improvement when you want it. The Clifford manifold would probably flow a bit more than a stock manifold, too, but that's just a hunch.

 

1954/64 223 OHV I-6 ~ B&S: 3.62" x 3.60" / 4 main bearings, 135 gross HP @ 4,000 RPM / Compression ratio 8.4:1, torque 203 lbs. ft. @ 2,000-2,000 RPM / 1V carburetor.

I wouldn't spend a cent on a 223, this engine is a "weak sister" that has notorious small oil passages. Smoked like a chimney, knocked like a bill collector fresh off the assembly line.

Some people added top oiler kits (available from autoparts stores) in an attempt to solve one of the problems.

Solid lifters need to be constantly adjusted to get rid of the CLACK CLACK CLACK. I yanked one out of a 1957 Ranchero, installed a 289/C4 from a 1967 Fairlane.

Installing performance parts on an old 223 engine with gawd only knows how many 10's of 1000's of miles it has on it: You're just asking for trouble.

Clifford used to race "Fabulous" Hudson Hornets that dominated NASCAR 1952/54. Hornets came w/a 308 cid flathead 6 with Twin H Power. Clifford and others added 'export' camshafts and aluminum cylinder heads.

Clifford began his business by offering performance parts for Hudsons, soon branched off selling other automakers I-6 performance parts, cuz Hudson went belly up in 1954, was taken over by Nash forming AMC.

1955/57 Hudsons are called "Hashes" by Hudson nuts, bear no resemblence to 1948/54's.

 

Bill can you tell me more about the top oiler kits? What do they do? How much is cost and is install hard? I am adamant about having my first classic truck run as good as it possibly can. I am still on a MAD search for a overdrive ( or equivalent ) transmission for my truck. The current 3-speed w/o overdrive and 3.89 gears wont let me run down the frwy at 65 without over heating. If I can find an affordable trans soon I' will be ordering a 3.25 ring and pinion. your thoughts?

 

223 top oiler kits were advertised in magazines like Motor Trend, Hot Rod and etc. NAPA, other autoparts stores, "Honest Charley" Speed Shop used to sell them, but today, I haven't a clue who may still have any.

"Honest Charley" is still in business (Chattanooga TN). 223 cancelled at the end of the 1964 model run.

 

I built a set of oilers on my 272 Y block. I teed off the oil sending unit than teed again at the back of the intake. drilled two holes a bit smaller than the fuel line hoses I was using into the rocker covers and clamped the hoses onto the outflow pipe on the rockers. Worked great with no leaks. It has been on there since 2000. I tried to buy the kit at the time and no one I talked to knew where to get them. No parts stores had them. But I had no internet or E-bay then either. It really is simple to make. I did have to use a small pair of vice grips on the main line to slow down the flow or it would fill the covers and run past the valve guide seals and smoke like heck. I am sure a small valve could be used there instead.

 

Replace it with a 262?

 

Your truck is like my 66.

I paid $3500. If I put another 10k into it, Im pretty sure I can sell it for $3500.

I would give the 223 a good tune up and leave it alone.

You can swap in a small block for way less than you will spend trying to make any power out of that 223.

At almost 50 years old, you should at least run a compression check before anything else. A intake, carb, and exhaust from Clifford is going to run you $1500 by the time you get it on the truck. Spend all that cash, then spin a bearing, blow a crank seal, drop a valve, or one of the million other things that can go wrong on a 50 year old engine.

 

I hear ya shadow. I also agree. In my mind the learning and the customizing and the DOING is worth a bit of money and worth being able to drive a vehicle that has history and stories and class. I can't afford to do too much anyway. At some point I might be interested in putting in the biggest v6 I can get in there. I guess thats a 300. I am far more interested in good cruising and a solid engine with good gas mileage than I am with any excess speed or power. One thing is for sure I LOVE this truck. Thanks for to pointers. For now I am upgrading the alternator and ordering a 3.25 ring and pinion. Next is a new windshield and radio.

 

I would go to a pick-n-pull and grab a pumkin with the gears you want out of a F100 before buying one. They swap out pretty easy.

 

300 is an I-6. Don't even think about installing a 3.8L V6, it was a turd from day one.

You can get the windshield (NAGS# W602) from any local autoglass shop in clear, tinted or with a sun band...tinted w/shield with extra tint across the top.

You will need the correct w/shield weatherstrip, also available locally from Blue Oval Truck Parts in Anaheim or The Truck and Car Shop in Orange.

Standard Cabs do not have stainless steel w/shield mouldings while Custom Cabs/Rangers do. Weatherstrip specific to each type.

NAGS: National Auto Glass Society.

 

ROCKIN BILL THANK YOU! priceless info, I owe you guys a beer or two or three.

 

Sorry I'm late to this party. My 223 is bored 080 over, 020 020 on the crank, bigger valves, cam has been reground, headers and intake from Clifford, Weber 2 barrell, port matched the headers and intake to the head and a few more tricks I'm sure I forgot. (see my album for a picture of the motor) It runs great and sounds great. Started on the first pull and after break in idled at 750 rpm. Spent $2500 on the motor.
So why did I do it after all the legitimate comments seen above? I'm tired of seeing everybodys same old SB or BB. Everybody's got one. Mines different - just my opinion.....