How hard is it to rebuild a Ford EBV carb?
#1
How hard is it to rebuild a Ford EBV carb?
I am fairly certain that my EBV on my flathead needs to be rebuilt. I have to use the manual choke to assist me from stop signs to get going. Otherwise, the truck runs and drives great. The carb has "Ford" embossed on it and states EBV on the other side. It appears this was the carb that was used on our trucks with the flatheads.
I want to rebuild it for the experience. I have never rebuilt a carb and I want to learn how to do it. Would these be a good carb to learn how to do this or would it be over my head. I would like to think I have fairly decent mechanical ability. I found a rebuild kit for like $35 bucks online.
Thoughts? Thanks men.
I want to rebuild it for the experience. I have never rebuilt a carb and I want to learn how to do it. Would these be a good carb to learn how to do this or would it be over my head. I would like to think I have fairly decent mechanical ability. I found a rebuild kit for like $35 bucks online.
Thoughts? Thanks men.
#2
The 7RT model was the "correct" carb, although it was referred to as the 8RT when used with the cable controlled choke (1951, I believe). Your EBV will work, obviously. I would recommend you go to the Fordbarn and look up Ken CT. He can get you the good parts, like the correct leather accelerator pump, etc. Some over the counter kits have leather accelerator pumps, but are actually for Mercury carbs, too short for the Ford carbs. IF you still have the steel float needle, reuse it. Some of the rubber tipped ones in the kits are suspect with today's gas. Ken may have some, but I know he runs short sometimes.
As far as rebuilding, they aren't that complicated. Just make sure it is clean, clean, clean. I like to soak them in hot Pine Sol or other degreaser ( I use an old crock pot). I would shy away from degreasers with sodium hydroxide (lye), as this can eat up the zinc casting. Some carb spray down the passages when you are done degreasing wouldn't hurt. Very important that you make sure ALL mating surfaces are flat. A good file and keen eye can help. Also, make sure your throttle shaft is not sloppy. You may notice a worn ridge on the throttle arm side. I build them up with silver solder, then remove enough to make the fit "right". Have done many this way with no problems. Set the float for 1-3/8" to 1-7/16", hold air horn upside down and measure from gasket surface to top (acutally bottom of float). About a quarter inch drop is more than sufficient. It's a good idea to heat up some water and test the float for leaks, submerge and look for bubbles.
Hope this helps, others may chime in.
An 8RT with hand throttle.
As far as rebuilding, they aren't that complicated. Just make sure it is clean, clean, clean. I like to soak them in hot Pine Sol or other degreaser ( I use an old crock pot). I would shy away from degreasers with sodium hydroxide (lye), as this can eat up the zinc casting. Some carb spray down the passages when you are done degreasing wouldn't hurt. Very important that you make sure ALL mating surfaces are flat. A good file and keen eye can help. Also, make sure your throttle shaft is not sloppy. You may notice a worn ridge on the throttle arm side. I build them up with silver solder, then remove enough to make the fit "right". Have done many this way with no problems. Set the float for 1-3/8" to 1-7/16", hold air horn upside down and measure from gasket surface to top (acutally bottom of float). About a quarter inch drop is more than sufficient. It's a good idea to heat up some water and test the float for leaks, submerge and look for bubbles.
Hope this helps, others may chime in.
An 8RT with hand throttle.
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