hey guys im looking at replacing the ip in my 90 f250 7.3 since i have 180xxx miles on it and i think its starting to go. first i was thinking i will go out tomorrow and try to clean the check valve on the ip, what should i do this with and will i have to bleed the air from the fuel lines if i do this? if this does not solve the problem im thinking i should replace the ip and while the lines are off maybe the injectors also, what do you guys think? the truck runs fine but once it gets warm it starts bucking like crazy and i have had all the injector lines and o rings replaced about 8 months ago plus adjusted the fipl about a month ago( shifts way better but acts up still once warm). i have read through this thread http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...vybusw&cad=rja and i see not to take off the gear cover but pull the ip out the back with all the lines still attached so all i should have to worry about is static timing right? also where should i buy an ip and injectors from for a 1990 N/A idi? i have herd of pensicola and stanadyne but are these good brands? i have also looked at rock auto for the injection pump but it seems a little pricy is ebay ok to buy from?

 

the method you read about is correct. and you would do well to replace the injectors at the same time as the pump.
i've heard good things around here about pensicola. stanadyne is the company whose name is on the design of the pump - they built it originally, therefore you can't get any better than that for a stock pump. as for fleabay, i've read good things about hectorwithinjectors, though i have no personal experience with his work.
depending on how you use the truck, you could pull your IP off, take it to a local rebuilder, have him rebuild your pump, then you put it back on. of course that takes a few days, so for a daily driver that may not be the most practical.
it won't be long until i'm ready to do the IP in my van, and at that time i'll take one of my two spares from the junkyard and have it rebuilt, then put it on.
static timing isn't perfect on these, the best way is to have a timing meter and read where its at at 2000RPM, the ideal timing depends in part on what kind of meter you have. or some of us who don't have a meter can get close enough by the way it sounds, but a meter is best. there are a few youtube videos floating around here somewhere to help you with details on that

 

its definitely not a dd but it needs to be there on standby as snow is soon to come and my clutch is going out in my civic so need to have another working vehicle if my car poops out. i found this on ebay FORD 7.3L 7.3 STANADYNE DIESEL INJECTION INJECTOR PUMP | eBay doesnt seem to bad priced compaired to i think it was 500 for a rebuilt one from rock auto but what about injectors? i have read about a certain code on the injectors but i have not looked at mine and i dont know what i need, rock auto doesnt list any injector codes.

 

looks like the right pump. someone else will have to help you with the injector codes, i've heard about them too but have no clue.

 

NMB2 can get you both the IP and injectors and provides a great product (and willing to work with morons like me even )

 

NMB2 is a great guy to work with on buying parts. He will have what anyone needs as far as pumps, injectors, and knowledge