I inherited a 48 F2 with a straight 6 and am trying to get it running.

I put diesel in the engine. And ATF in the carb and today I pulled out the plugs (I broke one) and poured some atf in the plug holes.
The engine does not turn over when I put a socket on it and try an turn it.
I pulled the radiator out today so I could really get in there and try to turn it.

So when I go to more the socket it WILL turn the bolt on the crankshaft but the actual pulley will NOT turn.

I don't want to keep turning the bolt as I am afraid of snapping it off (will that happen). Bolt didn't turn at all when I first stated but the bolt started being able to move and then I made sure I turned it only one way (clockwise).
We tried dropping the clutch a while back that did not work either.

Any other thoughts on what to do?

 

I would haved used marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and let it set for 24 hours or longer before trying to turn it by hand. Then use a 1/2 breaker bar with agressive tugs a few at a time. If you put enough pressure on the bolt and the pistons are hopelessly stuck you can break the bolt.
After a couple of tries and if it still stuck then take it out and rebuild it.

 

I would pull the head and pan off before i would take a chance in breaking that bolt. Cylinders may be rusted up or some thing may be broken inside the pan area. I forced one to turn like that and cut the crank shaft. I found out some body before me had pulled one of the rod caps off to check the bearings and put it back on wrong. When i turned the engine over with a lot of force because i thought it was just stuck, it cut a nice little groove in the crankshaft. So now unless i know the history of an engine ,if it wont turn , i take it apart. Not saying that's the best way, just my way,good luck.

 

Pull off head and see if the piston rings are rusted in place or some of the valves are stuck.

 

It will take several days for the diesel and atf to do any good inside there, so at this point patience will be your friend. As you noted, if you keep turning the crank bolt, it will strip or break if you're not careful. Don't force it. If after several days of soaking you see no results, it's time for a look-see inside. There could very well be something broken .

 

Back the bolt out and wait a couple of days. After a while re-torque the bolt to the proper torque. No plugs should allow crank to turn prior to full torque. If it doesn't turn, try Marvel Mystery Oil and wait. Then torque the bolt again. Do not over torque it. If it still won't turn, best look to see why.
If you rush it, it could break rings or worse.
That's my take on it anyway.

 

I've had engines take a week or more for the oil to penetrate. I'm a big fan of a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone for a penetrating oil, works better than any commercial oil I have used. If it still won't budge after a week it's time to pull the head and pan as already suggested.

 

Thanks guys, I tried just a little more today but had the same response.

I did put some more ATF in the plugs. I think I need to get some more atf and completely fill until the fluid comes and stays all the way to the top (right?).

Also, how does the bolt on the pulley work. I would not have expect to be able to turn the bolt without turn the crankshaft. Have I broke it? Or does it turn and torque and eventually tighten up enough to turn the crankshaft (assuming I don't snap the head off)?

 

The cylinder, combustion chamber does not need to be filled. In fact if a valve is open, you'll never get it filled. Leave the plugs out, there is a reason.

The bolt turns the crankshaft when tightened.......Only if the engine is free to turn. If the engine is stuck, the bolt may break.

Have patience and good luck.

 

Instead of reefing on the crank bolt, you can block up the rear axle, put the transmission in the highest gear, and slip a slim, strong pry bar in the drive shaft yoke at the rear of the transmission. You can put a little pressure on her from there.

 

Good thinking! I'll remember that.

 

Or drag it down the road and let the clutch out.

 

If it seized for a reason though that could destroy the engine. If it is really that tight pull the heads and oil pan.

 

Go back and read #3 and see what i did by forcing it to turn, not fun to buy a new crank shaft.

 

I actually did this to an International 3/4 ton 4X4 with an OHV six when I was a kid. She turned over and the next day was running. NO harm NO foul. I think it was just a few rings holding it. On an old flathead IHC six, I beat on the pistons with a chunk of wood, then slipped a prybar on the rear yoke after I got some movement. After some back and forth pryings, it went over. Again, just some rust on rings.