I'm also posting this here, as some folks who can help don't always go check out the inline 6 forum. Thanks for looking!

I was finally tackling the massively leaky oil pan on my 86, and following the write up by willeyjoe.62, it came out surprisingly easy. Much to my dismay, I heard a "plunk" sound while trying to get the pan out. Turns out, one of the #1 main cap bolts had broken, and I guess just sitting in place, being held up by the pan. It looks to have been broken at least for a little while, and I didn't get forceful enough to break it today.

The bearing seems ok, at least good enough to reuse, so I got lucky there.

I am in need of 1 #1 main cap bolt. It's a presumably 86 4.9 300, in a 2wd f150. I know this isn't the original engine, but it was a direct swap.

The rest of the bolt is sorta loose in the hole, so an easy-out should do the trick. Does anyone have a trick, other than an easy-out?

If you have an extra main cap bolt you'd like to sell, please PM me or email me at olds.gbody@comcast.net

Talk about Ford-tough!
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Is it a clean break? If not, and it's nice and jagged, you might be able to used a thick/wide flat blade screwdriver, etc to twist it back out..
If not...You'll need an EZ out....

 

I was trying to use a pick to get it out, and it moved some. Never thought to actually try a screwdriver. That might be the ticket.

Thanks

 

What's the easiest way to find a part number for said broken bolt? I would like to find a way to find out the cross reference and see if that bolt works on anything else.

I have been stumped trying to find a part number for it.

 

C2OZ-6345-A BOLT (CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING CAP)
7/16"-14 x 3 5/32"

Used on 1980/ E/F100/350 & Bronco (and probably cars, too, but I don't have a car parts catalog) except if 4WD, in which case the #3 cap on the RH side uses a different bolt there (the other 13 bolts are the ones indicated above)



Green Sales Company CINCINNATI, OH 45237 has 50 of them.
Manderbach Ford Temple, PA 19560 has 4 of them.
Tim Short Ford Hazard, KY 41701 has 16 of them.

 

I'm only 30 miles from Hazard....lol

 

the problem with using an easy out on a loose bolt is that you'll usually break off your drill bit before getting a chance to use your easy out, then you're in a lot more trouble. my favorite trick to deal with this is to start your hole with a self-tapping sheet metal screw. once it gets deep enough, it'll grab and turn the screw, and often be tight enough to pull the bolt back out. but even if it doesn't get you that far, it'll get the bolt to bottom out so you can drill into it without the screw turning and breaking your bit.
but for being as free as it is, i suspect it'll come out just for playing with a screwdriver and a pick.
as you're at it, i highly recomend you replace both bolts on that cap AT A MINIMUM, as the other bolt there may have been subject to some funny bending forces. better yet, replace them on all 7 caps, cause if one broke, you can bet the others are just as old and may be prone to the same failure, though its unlikely for any of them to fail ever.

 

Thanks for the part number- that was the one I've seen floating around the internet, but it was listed for about 6 other engines, and could not confirm that it fit the 300 engine.

And as for replacing the other ones, I was definitely going to replaced the other one on the cap, for the reason listed earlier and was contemplating replacing the rest.

I was going to try a LH drill bit first, thinking that it might grab it and spin it out. The sheetmetal screw trick I have heard about, but have not used yet.

I'll keep everyone posted. Thank you for the replies.

 

Oh and I found that the part number that was given has superceded, at least according to websites I've stumbled on trying to get a listing for my truck.

New number:
F3ZZ-6345-B

Thanks again for the help.

 

For extra peace of mind (and a little more $) you could go with a main cap stud kit ARP Main Stud Kits 152-5401 - SummitRacing.com

 

A NAPA parts store should have the main bolt in their Balkamp line. Melt bee's wax on it, then use a left handed drill bit and see it it will come out that way, since you have already moved it.

 

I want to say that special bolt may be the one with the stud in the top to bolt the extended rear sump oil pickup tube onto. The v8's have it, but I don't know about the sixes. And it also doesn't make sense that it's 4wd only, since the 2wd trucks need the rear sump also.

Just something to keep in the back of your mind if you run across it. Most Ford engines are front sump, except starting in 80 when all the trucks went to rear sump, and then a lot of the cars went to the double sump, all requiring reconfiguring of the oil pump pickup.

 

Given that the bolt was designed for use in 1962, it's certain to be used in several different applications.

I have no idea about that one oddball bolt and 4WD-specific engines (it's just what the book says) but I'd guess Franklin is right.

BTW to make the thread be accurate, I edited out all occurrences of my numeral-zero-letter-oh stuff, I was wrong there... the 2nd position is a numeral, not the third, and a letter-oh there is entirely correct.

 

NO, cause if you start a hole and that bolt starts to spin, you're just about guaranteed to break off your bit in there, then you're in real trouble.
only use a real drill bit if you're sure the bolt can't spin

 

I do, here's some more applications for the little charmer:

1962/68 221/260/289 Passenger Cars / 1966/68 289 Bronco / 1968/89 302 Passenger Cars / 1968/77 302 Bronco / 1969/74 302 Econoline / And etc etc etc!

D6TZ-6345-A (replaced C6TZ-6345-C) .. Stud-Attaches Pickup Tube to #3 Main Bearing Cap / 3/8" -16 & 7/16" -14 x 4 3/32" long.

Myriad I-6 & V8 1966/96 4WD's / 1975/97 E250/350 460 / And etc etc etc!