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  #16  
Old 11-21-2012, 10:49 PM
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ALBUQ F-1 ALBUQ F-1 is online now
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You're really blasting thru this job! Can you make your pictures larger, looks like some interesting stuff.
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  #17  
Old 11-23-2012, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1 View Post
You're really blasting thru this job! Can you make your pictures larger, looks like some interesting stuff.

lol,,,We didn't really "blast" through the project, I spent about a month putting the chassis together while I jumped back and forth between the truck and my aircraft duties.

The body work and painting is still not quite done but we are very close finally, all thats left is assembling all of the front end pieces that have been painted at long last.
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  #18  
Old 11-23-2012, 11:19 AM
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Tail Gate Fabrication

While I have some time I will post some more photo's of Jon's Truck.

Click the image to open in full size.

Jon wanted something totally differant for his tail gate and I suggested a full height unit with hidden latches and he said go for it.

So I started with a piece of chrome moly tubing between the hinges and fabbed a sub frame onto it. Then I rolled the upper roll in the outer skin and tacked it into place before making the spring loaded latches from cold rolled rod and some more chrome moly tubeing.

Click the image to open in full size.

By adding the sub frame (5/8" square tube) it did make the gate fairly heavy, but it's strong as h***. lol

Click the image to open in full size.

The round bar was drilled and tapped to 8/32 so I could add a finger latch to draw the rods in and unlock the tail gate.

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Its hard to see, but right under the latch is an alignment pin which prevents the bed sides from wiggling around.

I also installed ford f-150 tail gate cables useing the stock snap lock bolt on the top and fabbed a lower cable mount which bolts to the tailgate itself.

Click the image to open in full size.

Here is a better shot of the latch and alignment pin which slids into the sub frame as the tail gate is closed.

Once everything was adjusted the inner skin was bonded in place with panel bond so it is smooth on both sides, making the beast even heavier.


Click the image to open in full size.

And here it is, a full height tail gate, with hidden latches and cables, which does not rattle or move when the bed flexes.

I have already begun to fab another one like this for my 55.

Gary
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  #19  
Old 11-23-2012, 11:58 AM
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Bed repair and mods

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The PO had screwed a piece of 3/4" plywood covered with plastic grass glued to it for the bed floor. This had totally rotted through and held water against the sub frame long enough that 3 of the bed supports were destroyed and had to be replaced.

Click the image to open in full size.

While I was welding in the new bed supports from LMC I also welded nuts to the inside of the sub frame so we could use button head allen screw to re-attach the bed sides easily.

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The header board of the bed was hammered so bad that we decided that it would be cheaper to buy a new one from LMC rather than waste a lot of man hours making it straight again.

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After the sub frame had been repaired it was powder coated to prevent any future rust problems and the bed was re-assembled to finish up the bed floor installation.

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Jon bought a oak bed kit but because the PO had "modified" the bed and installed his own custom roll pan I had to cut and modify the wood kit to fit the available space. Once the wood had been fully mocked up in the bed and all the "bugs" were ironed out I applied 8 coats of marine spar varnish to both sides of the wood decking and spacer slats until it began having that glassy look.
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  #20  
Old 11-23-2012, 12:26 PM
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Brake line installation

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Now that the master cylinder and both the front and rear ends were in place it was time to hook up the brakes.

We went with the original style pressure switch for the brake lights, just because its a simple system and they rarely fail if placed vertically.

We installed a 1 psi check valve in each line close to the master cylinder and placed the porportioning valve in the rear brake line aft of the check valves.

Click the image to open in full size.

Here is a better shot showing the porpotioning valve placement (left of the master cyl).


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The rest of the system is just your basic brake installation, here is the front L/H side.

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another fwd L/H shot.

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L/H rear brake line installation.

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The mustang gt rear axel brakes installed.

Hope stuff like this doesn't bore you guys.
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  #21  
Old 11-23-2012, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Project-55 View Post
lol,,,We didn't really "blast" through the project, I spent about a month putting the chassis together while I jumped back and forth between the truck and my aircraft duties.

The body work and painting is still not quite done but we are very close finally, all thats left is assembling all of the front end pieces that have been painted at long last.
And here I was going to offer to come by to lend a hand or moral support as I will be driving for UPS in Spokane next month. Well I already had a feeling you were well along with the project, appears you'll have it done about the time there is too much snow to drive it. Maybe we can have breakfast/lunch at GW Hunters one day.
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  #22  
Old 11-23-2012, 01:06 PM
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Final prime then bed in paint

Here are some shots of the bed after final priming and final mock up before disassembly and painting, then some shots of the finished truck bed.

Click the image to open in full size.

After our body guy Cal had everything in final prime we reassembled it all one more time just to make sure that we hadn't forgotten anything.

We found that we didn't like the gap at the junction of the front bed panel and the top of the bed, so we added metal to the head panel and filed it flush then plugged the top rollover hole before final/final assembly and paint.

Also note that Cal removed the support in the center of the bed sides over the rear fenders, this makes the side of the bed look so much cleaner.

Click the image to open in full size.

Everything else fit flawlessly and every gap was dead on.

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the tail gate fit like a glove and operated perfectly.

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here is a good shot of the latches and alignment pin, the bolt below the pin is where the cable attaches.

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the bed with final paint and the first buffing completed.

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The wood decking and tailgate, I inset the fuel filler flush into the bed deck.

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The upper cable attachment

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And the tailgate attach point.

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The 12 inch tall FORD lettering looks small against that tall tailgate
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  #23  
Old 11-23-2012, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by South of BC View Post
And here I was going to offer to come by to lend a hand or moral support as I will be driving for UPS in Spokane next month. Well I already had a feeling you were well along with the project, appears you'll have it done about the time there is too much snow to drive it. Maybe we can have breakfast/lunch at GW Hunters one day.
That sounds like a great plan.

Yea we are Juuust about done with Jon's truck but feel free to bring your tool bag and jump right in on my 55 project,,, its a long way from cruising the block,,,lol

Gary
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  #24  
Old 11-23-2012, 02:27 PM
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Front clip work

Click the image to open in full size.

Jon bought fiberglass front fenders because he and I both wanted to smooth the nose out some and be able to re-contour the wheel openings.

We presented these new fenders to Jon's body guy Cal and he spent several weeks cussing both of us but he did an awesome job of bonding the upper and lower fender halves.

Click the image to open in full size.

Along the way Cal decided that because he had to do so much fiber work, he would custom fit them to the cab and hood with a minimal gap. So he had to build up areas so that each mating surface could be block sanded back to a perfect fit.

Click the image to open in full size.

I think the front fenders looks soo much better without the seam between the upper and lower half.

Click the image to open in full size.

You can see the tight fit between the fender and tire, this is another reason we used fiberglass ones, so that we could readily trim the opening to fit the tires exactly. Plus the flair at the rear of the wheel opening will be filled in and contoured to match the tire.

Click the image to open in full size.

Cal spent hours upon hours sanding and fitting the fenders until the gaps met his standards, I thought they looked great after the second fitting but it took about four more times to please him.

Click the image to open in full size.

Cal also re-contoured the top of each fender to exactly match the lower hood surface, when the hood is closed there is an even 1/8" gap all around.

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Even in primer it looks great and the seams are all tight and smooth.
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  #25  
Old 11-23-2012, 02:53 PM
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Wow! Awesome Project!!!!!

What is that color?
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  #26  
Old 11-23-2012, 03:07 PM
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making larger photo's

OK, I will try to make the pic's bigger, this is my test

Click the image to open in full size.


kewl,,,,finally figured out how to do this,,,I am a bloody genius!!! lol
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  #27  
Old 11-23-2012, 03:11 PM
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You passed the test!
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  #28  
Old 11-23-2012, 03:45 PM
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It seems that I have figured this photo thing out -----finally!!!

The color is Monterey Red, its the same color as Jon's vet and it looks even better in person than it does in the pic's and it way bright out in the sun. Jon made a great choice I think.
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  #29  
Old 11-23-2012, 03:59 PM
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engine is here

So, the engine finally arrives and it is a thing of beauty. I waste no time getting the 4L60E tranny mated up and fitted between the frame rails, as low as we could stick it so as to keep the center of balance low.

Only one small problemo,,, the cab wont fit back on,,,bummers, more fab work is in store.

Click the image to open in full size.

As we eased the cab forward it became evident that I was going to have to push the engine tunnel back a minimum of 3 inches to make the cab fit and have some clearance.

Click the image to open in full size.

I installed Locar flexible dip sticks on the engine and tranny. Jon bought a Fast EFI kit to feed this motor.

Click the image to open in full size.

The front pully kit came from rocky hinge and it looked great and more importantly,,, pulled everything in nice and close to the engine.

Click the image to open in full size.

Because of the narrow frame of the fifty and the fact that we had tucked it so far down made us order hooker block hugger headers to get the exhaust out the back.

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The engine was tucked down until the oil pan only cleared the front crossmember by an inch and a half. yet the bottom of the sump was still a half inch above the lowest surface of the crossmember.
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  #30  
Old 11-23-2012, 04:27 PM
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chassis final assembly

Now that we had the engine and tranny mounted and all the welding and fab work was done it was torn down and every piece was sent out for paint or powdercoat.

Click the image to open in full size.

Once everything had been hit with powdercoat or paint we assembled the rolling chassis for the last time....we hope...lol

Click the image to open in full size.

We had a local fabricator make a 19.5 gallon stainless fuel tank with 3 internal baffles (2 for and aft,1 lateral) one of his apprentices warped the top but the rest of the tank is flawless.

Click the image to open in full size.

before I sent the core support and inner wheel wells out for powdercoat I needed to fit the radiator, coolant overflow tank, Ac condenser, etc.

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stainless lines were used to move fluids like the PS juice around.

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here is the PS reservoir.

Now that all of this was fitted in place the last few chunks could go out for powdercoat.
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Old 11-23-2012, 04:27 PM
 
 
 
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