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Old 11-20-2012, 01:57 AM
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ForFoxSake ForFoxSake is offline
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How to remove roof rack on 91 Aerostar?

How to remove roof rack on 91 Aerostar? Google and search box here yielded no result so a new thread is likely in order. I have leaky roof. Not windows.

Thanks.
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Old 11-20-2012, 02:07 AM
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Roof rack removal search yields excellent results

I found this text while searching

I R&R'd the stock rack a few years ago when getting my 95 shorty repainted. The stock rails bolted into thread-serts installed in the roof skin. No headliner removal was necessary for the R&R. I don't know if there was any extra support underneath the roof skin, but with 100lb load rating, I doubt it.

Look as soon as the rain stops here.... (May?)
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:20 AM
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I re-did the headliner in my '97 and there are four large (3/8") phillips-head bolts along the length of each roof track, they are impossibly tight (torqued) to a nut welded to the inside of the roof Rib. The only way to loosen them without damaging the phillips head is to use two nuts on each bolt, lock them to the bolt thread below the roof nut, and try to turn them with a wrench from inside the van. I gave up, didn't want to cause damage.
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1997 Ford Aerostar 4.0L RWD (purchased May 2012)
1992 Ford Aerostar 3.0L RWD (sold March 2012)
1986 Ford Aerostar 3.0L RWD (traded in '99 for the '92)

1984 Jaguar XJ-6 4.2L RWD (owned since 1990)
1965 Jaguar S type 3.8L RWD (owned since 2004)
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:26 PM
Muffinman Muffinman is offline
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All you need is impact driver with the right size bit that fits the screws tight. Then hit it with a hammer or soft mallet, works like a charm.
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:10 PM
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rusty screws for roof rack

Turns out the silicone blobs were easy to remove and the Phillips heads were clean BUT they all turned dong nothing. So drill em out and I was left with a flange holding the rest of the screw in almost flush to roof. strange. Without a drill bit big enough to take these out and remove screw completely I put blobs silicone on them for now will get a bigger drill and bits later. Other side comes off next. sealed up the leak on drivers side was the worst. Parked on sideslopes worse yet.
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:12 AM
xlt4wd90 xlt4wd90 is offline
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You might try a screw extractor, which is basically a drill bit with reverses cutting faces. You run the drill in reverse with these, and at some point they are supposed to catch enough metal to try to back out the broken screw. If not, you just drill through the screw.
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Old 11-22-2012, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xlt4wd90 View Post
You might try a screw extractor, which is basically a drill bit with reverses cutting faces. You run the drill in reverse with these, and at some point they are supposed to catch enough metal to try to back out the broken screw. If not, you just drill through the screw.
Every screw turned clockwise or counter easily and was a potential leaker, rusty threads I felt after cutting one small hole in headliner at worst water infiltration. No rust holes though roof all good under racks. I drilled off the heads and the racks came off but lo and behold is a second flat "Head" or flange. Don't ask me how they assembled that!

My 3/8's chuck in my drill wouldn't hold bits large enough to drill off that "Flange" so I silicone blobbed them all. No leak now. 10 clear bumps on the roof. No real need for roofrack before spring. When I do get a 1/2" chuck drill I will likely reinstall roofracks with a serious bent to waterproofing and sealing. Factory had plastic gasket thats it.
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Old 11-23-2012, 01:34 AM
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some leaks fixed others still there

A lot less water coming in now but still some and reading has discovered loose bolts around rear windows to be a cause.
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:58 PM
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previous owners attempts

The previous owner, or before that used "are you ready for this?" Hot Glue Gun to try and seal a window. Fortunately by backing the window nuts off I was able to carve it all out of there allowing me to go ahead and build a seal using Black RTV silicone. BTW I did NOT have to remove the interior panels. On my 91 at least a few screws will loosen/remove around the windows I needed to tighten or work on and by pulling the plastic back (sorta hard) a 9mm wrench will reach all the nuts. I built a good seal and slowly tightened the window after a bit allowing the RTV to firm a bit so it would not all squeeze out of there with tightened nuts. After the window was sufficiently torqued, I built a "Gusset" with more Black RTV along the top of the offending window gasket and down the leading edge. (right above rear radio controls). For those not having much experience with silicone, when ya want to level out a fillet, you can lick a "CLEAN" finger with plenty spit and your finger can shape the silicone for a bit. If you have been using latex gloves previously, a clean finger you'll have.
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:58 PM
 
 
 
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