Could it be that module that bolts to the dizzy on older engines, an is remote mounter on inner fender on newer ones ?? Cant remember the name of the thing. Theres 6 or 7 wires on it. 2 colors for it, black or gray. Could that be it ?

 

After looking into the TFI/PIP module trouble shooting threads around the interwebs, it appears to me that one of the two modules has failed. It also appears that when one fails, it's recommended that both units be replaced.

It also sounds like replacing the PIP sensor/stator is a PITA and is usually easier to replace the whole distributor as the bearings and such will be worn on an original distributor anyway.

So do I need to find a replacement dizzy and TFI module?

If I want to go with a new distributor, I'd like to either buy a cheap factory replacement that will get me by for now and isn't too expensive to discard later, or I'd like to get whatever is going to work best with a Megasquirt EFI computer which I am planning to do some day (soon hopefully).

Any suggestions?

 

I don't know that you'd need to switch both, and I think they can be tested individually. My Haynes manual has the procedures I believe. There is a difference in tfi modules, I'm sure you found that in your search. Let me know if you'd like me to look up how to test them.

 

I'd appreciate it if you could look up the testing procedure. I have a Haynes manual, but it's back home at my parent's house.

I do realize there are 2 different TFI module setups. I have the later which I believe is the externally mounted black TFI module, rather than the earlier grey.

 

PM sent. Let me know if you need anything else.

 

Thanks a bunch!

 

I bought a TFI module from Ford, hoping that it would be the correct fix. I've just gotten back to my parent's house and taken off the TFI module. The first thing I've noticed is that the factory TFI module is black, and the replacement I received from Ford is a grey unit. Isn't there a difference based on the color of the TFI module?

The original, black module is part #: F1SF-12A297-C1A 5F28C
The replacement, grey module is #: 5U2J-12A297-BA C11HD

Can anybody tell me if this is the correct replacement part?

 

If the one on your truck was black, you need another black one. The two DO NOT interchange.

 

That's what I was thinking. I tried swapping the two, and the truck wouldn't start (same as the issue I'm chasing). I put the black unit back in and now it starts and runs fine. I've been trying to run a KOEO test. The codes I'm getting are:

211 - Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) circuit fault
311 - Thermactor air system/fault during engine run self-test
538 - Insufficient RPM change during KOER Dynamic Response Test/
OR
538 - (Trucks ONLY): invalid cylinder balance test due to throttle movement during test
632 - Overdrive Transmission Cancel Switch/ no action during self engine run test

Now that the truck has finally run long enough to scan for codes, I'm getting the 211 code which makes me think I should be looking at the PIP module in the distributor instead.

 

Subscribed, happy to finally come across a Vortech install.

 

Thanks, oddford.

It's been a long time since I've had any time to work on the ol' girl, so she's been sitting at my parents house for the past year and only been moved a few times to keep bearings lubed and the battery from dying completely (I don't have insurance on it to save money at the moment). I did replace the distributor with a reman unit which came with a new PIP sensor which solved my no-start problem, so it's been running fine since.

Hopefully I'll find some time this winter to start working on the Dana swap now that I'm back home from work in ND this past year. Now I just have to find time around the new baby and the projects my wife has for me .

 

I know this is old, but i just read through this and it sounds like you haven't done anything with it yet. I would definitely steer you away from a locker. I've had lockers in a CJ5, a Bronco and an F-150, and I'm a big fan of them in the right application. But an F-250 that's intended for towing isn't the right application. And it would actually make your tire-spinning-when-starting-in-a-corner problem worse.

Lockers only drive the inside tire in a corner, so they are one-wheel drive in that situation. An open diff is actually better then because it is driving both tires. The locker will start driving the outside tire once you get the inside one spinning, but you will spin a tire on a LOT of startups.

Personally I wouldn't choose a clutch type limited slip for anything. I think there are always better options (although they may cost more). Others might disagree, but that's me.

What I think would be best for your situation is a TrueTrac. It drives both tires all the time (like an open diff) but will give more torque to the tire that gets traction (unlike an open diff). That's the only thing I'd ever think of putting in the back of a 3/4 or 1 ton truck that will be used as a truck.

 

Thanks for the thoughts. I had pretty much decided on the TrueTrac until I got my '13 FX4. I love the user select-able rear locker so I'd like to do the same with my '95 as well. There's very few situations where I actually need the locker since don't go wheeling for fun or anything like that, but I have gotten stuck in some deep snow in my '95 with one front and one rear tire spinning. An electronic locker is kind of expensive though, so I may go with the TrueTrac in the end anyway.

 

Cool truck, nice build

 

Bump for updates, good looking truck!