Been dreading this for a long time but finally did it. Changed the plugs in my 06 5.4. Took it to my buddies yesterday and got started about 11:30 am. Finished up around 8:30 p.m. $13 a plug at advance but had a $20 coupon for anything over $100. $100 for spark plug removal tool at napa that i could have got for $60 on ebay, hindsight always 20 20, and $14 for cheap set of really long needle nose pliers. A real pain in the butt but still way cheaper than the $600 dealer wanted. I would suggest to anyone going to attempt it to buy the tool beforehand and if you dont need it sell it on ebay. 7 out of 8 broke, but the problem fixed and shes runnin great now

 

Would be nice if you would tell us the year of the truck and what engine you have...... BTW, congrats...that's a dang LONG time for replacing 8 (or is it 6?) spark plugs!! Not knocking your ability, but it's a terrible Ford mistake!

 

06 5.4.......first line

 

I was thinking when I saw The spark plug nightmare is over
That maybe you traded for a diesel. But then we have our own set of nightmare things.
I agree that Ford should of put some more thought into component access. The last Ford
I changed plugs on that way easy was a 1972 Maverick that my dad owned. Inline 6
very easy to reach the plugs after you get over then being stuck. He had gotten
the car used. I think my worst was the 2002 Ranger with the 4.0L That one required
a blood sacrifice on 2 plugs.
How much skin and blood did you leave behind?

Sean

 

yes it was a long time for 8 plugs, but our ability was not the problem, very poor design. Still a ford fan though.

 

Didnt leave much blood behind. They really werent that harn to get to, just takes time to get the broken ones out. I had 92 ranger 4.0, only ever changed 5 of the plugs.

 

I have replaced a dozen at the shop and have only had 3 trucks not break one into the head. The removal tool is a must if trying to attempt yourself. Did you put any anti-seize on the new ones?

 

Has anyone ever tried an air hammer or air ratchet to remove these plugs? Forgive my ignorance as I have not attempted to do this to my 08 5.4 yet (only 50K miles). Are the plugs a standard looking plug? What causes all the heart ache? Crappy thin wall plugs? Threads exposed in combustion chamber?? Corrosion do to galvanic reaction with steel in aluminum? Check column D all the above???<O</O
Reason I ask is our shop E250s that had the 300 straight six (late 90s) would give us trouble with the plugs. The threads stuck far enough into the combustion chamber that carbon would build up on them making removal almost impossible. We found the air hammer action easily removed them vs. a hand ratchet. Of course the air hammer was set low and you needed to finesse it. You couldn’t bulldog it or they would snap off or gall threads etc...Fun stuff<O</O
I’m thinking some Kroil or PB-Blaster overnight or over a few days with some thermal cycling and a gentile 3/8" air hammer or air ratchet would make easy work of this fearsome anxiety ridden (what should be a simple plug change) job? No? Obviously I have not looked at this on mine yet but I'm getting ready to.<O</O

 

They are a different type of plug. They break at the porcelain. With them I have found to use a ratchet and slowly undue the plug. It should make some noise when taking out. If not most likely it broke. Unscrew a little then back in a few times to try to keep it intact.

 

They really werent that harn to get to

 

I was just going to post a question about plug removal on my 03 V-10. I had heard that they will often break. What tool are you referring to from NAPA? Any suggestions on a successful plug change would be great.

 

So the hex that the socket grabs is not metal but porcelain??? Guess Ill go to parts store and hold one for a clearer view. Have to go get shocks anyway.
ungerp check the tech section the removal has been well documented with the removal tool. Also do a search many have posted. The reason I posted was to ask if pneumatics would better assist removal

 

The 03 2 valve V10 has one piece standard plugs, I have never heard of anyone having problems getting them out.

Denny

 

No the hex is metal but it separates from the porcelain.

 

Wow! Glad you got them out but that's not great results. Just curious, did you follow the TSB? I thought that would give you better odds than 1/8!

Here's a link to a thread w/ pictures of the plugs. They're not typical. What happens is that the electrode shield (solid part) fouls w/ carbon and sticks in the head. Some people have reported great success using an air impact - but the Ford TSB specifically says not to use them. The original TSB called for using Kroil or PB Blaster, but the lastest says to use carb cleaner as it supposedly wicks down better and dissolves the carbon. Antisieze on the new plugs should prevent the problem next time. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...iles-pics.html

Your 2008 may be fine, I'm thinking it was mid year 2008 when they got them fixed. Look to see if your COP's are brown or black...brown means it's the new style. If they're the old plugs you might want to change them sooner rather than later. Plenty of posts on here to read about it! More over in the 2004-08 F150 side as they have the same engine.

You should be fine w/ your 2003, you still have the older style plugs. The problem w/ that era was blowing the plugs out, not sticking. But I'm thinking that was fixed by 2003. Just be sure to torque them to spec. Only the 2005-08 3 valve motors have the problem w/ sticking.