Well, the Dakota IFS a la Industrial Chassis is well underway. In fact, the components are all installed (save for one caliper. Missing one caliper bolt; found one locally at salvage yard just before they closed at 4 today). My compliments to IC for a nice package for us otherwise-mostly-ignored '57-'60 die-hards looking for a compatible IFS package. I have documented the install and hope to share it with FTE forum soon.

On the down side, here's a couple of snafu's we've come across that were unwelcome suprises:
(read it like you're an IC employee "covering" excuses):

1. BTW, did we forget to mention to you that you'll need a rare and very hard-to-find rear sump oil pan (almost impossible to find WITH the dipstick and dipstick sleeve in tact)for your 302 because the replacement Dakota crossmember gets in the way?;

2. and oops, here's hoping you can find matching wheels in a 5 on 4.5" pattern (Dakota) to replace the 5 on 5.5" (Ford) pattern;

oh, and here's a peach...

3. how you likin' those new front disc brakes? Guess you found an actuator and modified it to fit the Ford brake system so the rear drums activate just before the front disc's when braking?

All sarcasm aside, it hasn't been THAT bad of an install. We DID end up pulling the motor afterall. This actually turned out to be a good thing, since we can install the cam/lifter kit very easily whille the motor's pulled.

Resolutions to The Big 3 Snafu's :

1. lucked-into a rear sump oil pan (with pump) but NO sleeve or dipstick! OK, so we can fabricate the latter two. Bullet #1 dodged.

2. luckily I run the most common and probably one of the least expensive wheels available today. Ah, the ol' reliable "Chrome Smoothie" (about $60/wheel in a 15X7 5 on 4.5" lug pattern). Bullet #2: OK, so we didn't "dodge" bullet #2 entirely there, we took a bullet, but it turned out to be a small caliber munition, so damage was only superficial in nature.

3. the wonderfully talented & multi-experienced rod builder who I am relishing the opportunity to play understudy to during this project sent me packin' to get a pre-85 GM truck brake "actuator" (is that the right word: I don't know, I'm too tired to remember what the heck it's called right now!). Lo and behold, the nearest salvage yard had one, with fittings in tact, for $20. Needless to say, a deal was stuck, post haste. Don Howard (owner of Sierra Street Rods in Porteville, CA) didn't even bat an eye about having to fabricate this unit to make the new front disc's work with the old rear drums on my '59. He just smiles, and in confidence humbly states, "we'll get you set up right". And you believe him. And then you stand aside and watch him. You get busy for a few minutes sanding and prepping parts for install. You look up minutes later... And then it works! And I am humbled once again...

Pix of IFS install soon.... BTW, we will be installing my cam/lifter kit while the motor's pulled. GT-40 heads to follow with next month's overtime check!

Daryl
PS- For the record, I'm not bashing IC. However, it would be nice from a customer service standpoint if they forewarned you of potential problems. I'm sure they've received PLENTY of feedback for numberous applications of their crossmembers, so it shouldn't be asking to much for them to disclose same. That's all I'm saying....Capice?

 

Well, Daryl, I'm (for once!) going to keep my pie hole shut on an issue. Mostly because I really want to see your installation pics and documentation so I can form an educated opinion about it. I'm not necessarily saying that I think you made a bad choice (cripes, it was your only choice!), but rumor has it that the proprietor of that establishment has one of the world's two largest egos. Given the fact that I own the other, I've not researched it any farther. He apparently resides on the HAMB much as we do here and has a reputation for mutilating anyone who he perceives to be the least bit critical of his product. A clash between us would be fruitless and grisly.

At any rate, don't sweat the small stuff. I'm still extremely pleased with my Gibbon IFS decision and I had issues with it, too. They didn't bother to tell me until after I had already ordered their matching engine mount kit and was trying to install it that I would have to gas axe the whole firewall out and custom build a new one to make the engine fit where they wanted it to. Needless to say, they got the mounts back. There were some other problems as well, but mostly along the lines and degree of difficulty that you've encountered. Nothing I haven't been able to overcome. I think you'll find it with any brand IFS kit.

The whole reason I even posted is to give you a heads up on the dipstick and tube. Check with the dealer. They'll probably have to order it, but if you know what vehicle the pan came off of, they can probably still get you the dipstick and tube for it. They get broken and lost all the time. Is your pan a double sump with two drain plugs or a true rear sump? If you've got two drains, ask for one for a '79 Fairmont with a 302. If it's a true rear sump, ask for one for about a '79 Ford van.

Good luck and let us know how it comes out!

 

The ONLY bashing Ive ever seen from Steve on HAMB is directed to improperly thought out M11 setups.
Then he wrote what has got to be one of the best how to's on using the M11. Lots of hand written graphics along with follow up posts. Doesnt sound like the work of an egotist to me.
Passionate about his work, yes; seems to be no different than a few here on FTE.

As far as his own stuff he asks for any and all feedback so I hope Daryl would include him with his complaints.

My only complaint is that he offers nothing for either of my trucks.

 

Carl,
Wasn't really a complaint, just a "heads-up". I've long since learned that nothing goes to plan with these projects!

Rage,
Thanks for the 4-1-1 on the oil pans. I'll print and take the info to the rod shop this a.m. , show it to them, then go looking for one at the salvage yards.


To both gents... thanks for the replies and input!

Cheers!
Daryl

 

75-91(maybe newer too) vans and 68-newer 4x4's used rear sump oilpans. Look for a dipstick and tube from either of those. The 4x4 may have a shorter tube as the motor isn't shoved under the dash in those vehicles.

 

Consider the dipstick tube selection carefully, with your exhaust manifolds/headers in mind. I had considerable problems figuring out how to get a solid dipstick tube throught the exhaust maze with a rear sump pan.

 

Daryl

COuple more points I meant to make.

In defense of IC, they really have no way to account for all the possible engine/vehicle combinations you might install this crossmember with. If you get off with only these complications, be real thankful. You are rodding and there will always be obstacles along the way.

I am very interested to hear your installers critique of the unit in regards to fit, appearance and sturdiness of the crossmember. That really what you paid IC for IMO.

 

Daryl,
The brake part you had to get is called a proportioning valve ( all aftermarket brake kit vendors have them and they are NOT $20 ). They are required when you mix disc and drum brakes. Del

 

Riiiigggggghhhhhttttt.

 

Del,
Yep, that's what is is, a "propoertioning valve". Thanks, it was on the tip of my tongue but my tired brain wouldn't let it come out!
Daryl

 

continuing...

4. Header clearance on driver's side. I've always wanted my very own set of block huggers anyway (or at least I guess I do now!).


To All,

The IC kit is very good. It is stout, fits well, and has good directions. Being as **** retentive as I am, I've replaced every bushing, nut, bolt, washer, rubber boot, and brake line with new parts... not to mention a new rack & pinion. We've custom fit the brake lines and installed the proportioning valve atop the frame between the firewall and the upper control arm on the driver's side (pix to follow upon completion).
Tomorrow we test fit the motor. I seiously doubt the header will clear on the driver's side and I'm already prepared to get ceramic block huggers (Speedway motors, $200).
I also am getting rid of the large box B&M floor MegaShifter and going to the less intrusive Lokar 16" shifter(similar to their Nostalgia shifter, but with only one bend, not two).
Lastly, I have located 15X7" chrome smoothie wheels in anticipation of needing narrower, shorter tires for the front.

Ba-dee, Ba-dee, Ba-dee....That's All (for now) Folks!!!

Daryl

 

LOL! Wow, Carl! I've never heard anyone speak so highly of Mr. Industrial Chassis. I do suppose it's possible that he's truly a big hearted pussiecat. Nah! As a matter of fact, his trashing of the other posters and the world in general is what turned me off to the HAMB forever.

 

Daryl

Ask the installer what guage the crossmember is made of. And no, I am not moving in for the kill. I am not going to tell you you should have installed a Volare. And of course there is more to it than sheetmetal gauge. I am just curious. Many of the aftermarket crossmembers I have seen look a little weak to me. I have never seen an IC crossmember. I should have looked around at PF. There almost had to be a couple present.

'fenders

 

'Fenders,
Thx for the heads up, but it looks like I'll have to go to block hugger headers anyway, so that should ease the "angle of the dangle" dipstick issue. Not thrilled about having to go to block huggers, since I heard they aren't much better than a stock exhaust manifold, but.... Sometimes ya gotta do whatcha gotta do!

More on that later...
Daryl

 

Rage,
Roger that about HAMB. I was so put off by them, I quit after about my third visit to the website.
Daryl