1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Nik's 97 350 build thread

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  #856  
Old 09-01-2015, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by nossliw
That being said I might ****** up one of those Mishimoto radiators. Found a few on amazon as well that say they match for my year of truck. But I sure would like to buy them from a reputable dealer on here or at least be able to confirm the PN before I buy it. I likely won't put it in right away, but I'm sure between the 200k and quarter mil mark I will need one. We will see.
To be sure it will fit your truck, buy one that says it will fit a '96. '97 was a weird year for ford trucks with the F-150 getting the new body style and the 250 and 350 still being the OBS. If you get one for a '96 there's less chance for confusion.
 
  #857  
Old 09-01-2015, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
To be sure it will fit your truck, buy one that says it will fit a '96. '97 was a weird year for ford trucks with the F-150 getting the new body style and the 250 and 350 still being the OBS. If you get one for a '96 there's less chance for confusion.
Funny you say this Nate. I always say my truck is a 96 when getting parts for this very reason. Parts people usually aren't bright enough to figure it out themselves.
 
  #858  
Old 09-01-2015, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
To be sure it will fit your truck, buy one that says it will fit a '96. '97 was a weird year for ford trucks with the F-150 getting the new body style and the 250 and 350 still being the OBS. If you get one for a '96 there's less chance for confusion.
Originally Posted by BBslider001
Funny you say this Nate. I always say my truck is a 96 when getting parts for this very reason. Parts people usually aren't bright enough to figure it out themselves.
Ha, sounds like we have all learned the hard way on that. That is exactly what I do!

What do you guys think of this one???
Amazon.com: Mishimoto MMRAD-F2D-95 Aluminum Radiator for Ford 7.3L Power Stroke: Automotive Amazon.com: Mishimoto MMRAD-F2D-95 Aluminum Radiator for Ford 7.3L Power Stroke: Automotive
 
  #859  
Old 09-02-2015, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by nossliw
Ha, sounds like we have all learned the hard way on that. That is exactly what I do!

What do you guys think of this one??? Amazon.com: Mishimoto MMRAD-F2D-95 Aluminum Radiator for Ford 7.3L Power Stroke: Automotive
That looks right to me!
 
  #860  
Old 09-02-2015, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by nossliw
Ha, sounds like we have all learned the hard way on that. That is exactly what I do!

What do you guys think of this one??? Amazon.com: Mishimoto MMRAD-F2D-95 Aluminum Radiator for Ford 7.3L Power Stroke: Automotive
That is a nice radiator and a good price. Bookmarked! How easy/difficult is it to install radiators on our trucks? I am guessing no harder than a dang intercooler
 
  #861  
Old 09-02-2015, 09:32 AM
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Easy once you get the shroud and fan off.
 
  #862  
Old 09-02-2015, 12:53 PM
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JMO, but why change the radiator if its not leaking or plugged up?? Seems like a waste of money to me. I've changed a LOT of chit on my truck, but the radiator never even entered my mind.
 
  #863  
Old 09-02-2015, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
That looks right to me!
Originally Posted by BBslider001
That is a nice radiator and a good price. Bookmarked! How easy/difficult is it to install radiators on our trucks? I am guessing no harder than a dang intercooler
Originally Posted by oldbird1965
Easy once you get the shroud and fan off.
Originally Posted by 427 fordman
JMO, but why change the radiator if its not leaking or plugged up?? Seems like a waste of money to me. I've changed a LOT of chit on my truck, but the radiator never even entered my mind.
Agreed. I highly doubt the radiator has any issues at all, but I figure I'll toss it on the shelf and maybe 10 years down the road I will really appreciate picking it up, instead of paying what they used to sell those suckers at 800-1000. Not sure why but I have put in a lot of SD radiators over the last year.... all around 200-250k
 
  #864  
Old 09-03-2015, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by nossliw
Hey bud. I did, and its not hooked up anymore. I ended up wiring into a toggle switch so I can simply turn the pump on and off. My power source is the key so I can't accidentally leave it on unless the key is on too.

That all being said. I get the purpose of it, but the intermittent cutouts too the pump for whatever reason were driving me nuts. I never had the issue with it bypassed, or now on the toggle, sooooo that's how I am going to leave it. No more fiddling with it. Green is for diesel on the toggle, blue is for water injection.
Bypassed the oil pressure switch and problem continued and getting worse. Ended up being the CPS and replaced with one I purchased back in 2007. Never had a bad CPS so symptoms were new to me. Think its probably the original and good-god was it in there good. Reconnected the oil pressure switch and no issues yet.

I have to say the electric fuel conversion is probably the best mod for the truck, once the bugs are worked out. My fuel mileage has improved significantly and having the valley open and dry is a nice plus. Removing the turbo to install it was not fun but took the opportunity and installed EBPV delete pedestal while it was off.
 
  #865  
Old 09-03-2015, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Hussler
Bypassed the oil pressure switch and problem continued and getting worse. Ended up being the CPS and replaced with one I purchased back in 2007. Never had a bad CPS so symptoms were new to me. Think its probably the original and good-god was it in there good. Reconnected the oil pressure switch and no issues yet.

I have to say the electric fuel conversion is probably the best mod for the truck, once the bugs are worked out. My fuel mileage has improved significantly and having the valley open and dry is a nice plus. Removing the turbo to install it was not fun but took the opportunity and installed EBPV delete pedestal while it was off.
Well glad you figured it out! When my pump was on and off due to the bad switch there wasn't any bucking, and actually it was hard to notice at first, besides the truck just being a complete turd on power. Glad you got it resolved though.

I agree on the MPGs. I have said it before but I know mine has a decent amount of blowby and to pull 21.4 mpg in the mountains blew my mind!
 
  #866  
Old 09-03-2015, 10:21 AM
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Well the next problem has showed its face. I noticed the clutch pedal was getting sloppy again, Figure the set screw backed out again and it was slipping on the master rod. Pulled the cylinder out and took off the heim joint. Welded a sleeve and tapped in a couple extra sets screws. Put it all back together and its a bit better but no where near what it supposed to be. I get under and start using the pedal by hand. Holy ballz it looks like the entire pedal box has significant play. So I'm off to get a new set of bushings tonight, and will likely get another pedal pushrod for the master to be safe. Man I get sick of this crap! Its always something, something I don't have time for.

I will tell ya what, I hate being on my back under there...need to lose 10 lbs and it will likely help!
 
  #867  
Old 09-03-2015, 10:28 AM
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For any of you that need the PN someday....

Pedal Box Bushing Kit : F3TZ-2C342-A
 
  #868  
Old 09-03-2015, 10:40 AM
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I'm also worried that the entire assembly may have cracked. I should be able to weld it back up if need be, but I sure hope it didn't. Sounds like a common problem, and the fact it happened over the period of a day has me betting tha'ts what happened or a bushing finally crumbled and split.

EDIT: I just went out and got under there and looked, and yes the eyelets for the bushing are completely blown at a closer look, look like eggs but the bushing are still in there just non existent to the assembly frame., there are a few cracks as well. Cracks are not small either. Wow I sure let this go too long! So I'm forgetting the bushing repair and just ordered a new assembly. Filling, reaming out, welding while trying to keep this all straight with heat distortion on the TIG is not worth my time cost of just getting a new one. I need to tow heavy again tomorrow. Hope it will hold together for the short trip.
 
  #869  
Old 09-15-2015, 09:33 AM
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I know there are a bunch of good build threads going right now, but I wanted to follow up on this turd in progress. I finally had a chance to get the clutch pedal assembly replaced. I initially tried driving it to get through the week, and it kept getting worse and worse till I got pissed and tried to push it through the floor and snapped everything and stripped the arm.

Sooooo the new one is in and it is fairly easy to do, but it can be a pain in the azz to get the brake master rod to slip in properly without damaging anything, inside the firewall, or crimping a brake line. I will say once the new assembly was in, holy shmokes it never felt so smooth using the clutch. Weird how solid it felt. I let mine go way to long till it failed, but it likely needed to be replaced way back when I did the heim joint mod.

Next is the water pump, when I get time… hopefully next week, after we epoxy the garage floor and finish the list of keeping the wife happy chores.

I have a buddy hauling the trailer to the track this weekend since he is bored and bought a brand new 2016 Duramax and wants to see how it pulls. I guess I will enjoy those expensive AC seats Speaking of which. I need to get the AC fixed in this thing some day. It will be the first vehicle i have ever owned with AC once its fixed
 
  #870  
Old 09-15-2015, 12:33 PM
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I'd bet you get your a/c fixed and it'll be colder than that new Dura-diaper's a/c. These trucks will flat out make cold air!
 


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