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Well black n blue has been running great. I believe I have a small diesel leak, not sure from where but she drops a drop or two after parking it.
The good news is we went and picked up this rig for a close friend who wrecked his welding rig Thursday night, that's this weekends project. I have only seen 1 crew cab, dually, long bed, 4wd in this entire state, this dude had 3 of them. Only 8 miles down the road from me.
We got the welder and gear moved over last night (not a small task after the wreck tossed it all over the place) and spent over an hour cleaning the underside with the power washer. Has a stock Ford new trans with only a few thousand on it, new tires, and a rebuild on the front end. 240k mechanically sound, needs more exterior work than any thing. It has a few minor issues we can knock out today, but was a heck of a deal. Bough it from a young kid (his son) hence the shotty bumper paint and stickers. But mechanically it was maintained.
Installing manual hubs, Blasting the wheels this morning and going to PD them for now, 6637 intake and CCV to atmosphere, might blast the bumper and grill... Might not. See how far we get.
Flat bed will go on the back, 366 and sticks, and it's going all flat black:-)
You guys may wanna check the distance between those over size tires on the duals. Looks to me like they are really close together. You put all that weight in it and those side walls touch each other, it will blow both tires out. The young man that had it probably didn't think about that when he put the bigger tires on it.
You guys may wanna check the distance between those over size tires on the duals. Looks to me like they are really close together. You put all that weight in it and those side walls touch each other, it will blow both tires out. The young man that had it probably didn't think about that when he put the bigger tires on it.
I did notice that. They are 285/75/16s. I want to get a 1" spacer in there for sure. Not finding many on 8x6.5 with 5/8 lugs though. 5/8 to 5/8. With about 3k in the bed he has 3/8 between sidewalls at full flex on either hub. Need to air them up a bit more and get a spacer in there.
You did a dually conversion correct? If you ever have time, could you post a few pics of you brakes and hubs?
I did notice that. They are 285/75/16s. I want to get a 1" spacer in there for sure. Not finding many on 8x6.5 with 5/8 lugs though. 5/8 to 5/8. With about 3k in the bed he has 3/8 between sidewalls at full flex on either hub. Need to air them up a bit more and get a spacer in there.
You did a dually conversion correct? If you ever have time, could you post a few pics of you brakes and hubs?
My truck has cast iron spacer like the SD duallys on the front, and 3" steel adapters on the rear. I didn't do the conversion on it. It was done in Texas by Weatherford Truck Company.
My truck has cast iron spacer like the SD duallys on the front, and 3" steel adapters on the rear. I didn't do the conversion on it. It was done in Texas by Weatherford Truck Company.
Found this post and it sounds exactly like what we have.
It may be dual wheel adapter stud. Do you know how your truck became a dually 4x4? Ford never sold them this way. You could get a 4x4 chassis cab and add a bed to it or buy a converted SRW 4x4 that used the 3" rear SRW brakes with adapters. This is how my 96 is done. I don't recall ever having the front wheels off of my 1996 so I'm not sure how it is done on that end. On your drivers door jamb, is there an added sticker from a converter such as CNS Vehicles Inc, Roll-A-Long or Centurion? All of these did conversions to new vehicles and added a certification sticker on. Many did the conversion themselves. Arrowcraft is one maker of kits and there is another is Southern California but I don't recall their name. You could also source salvage parts by getting a DRW rear end with wheels and then pulling 4x4 chassis cab adapters for the front.
Mine is converted by CNS Vehicles Inc. and uses 5/8" studs instead of the factory dually 9/16" studs. It also uses a lug with a permanently attached washer that rotates free of the nut. Took me forever to find these. Southwest Wheel in Dallas sells them if this is your set up. Their part number for the lug is AA 39946 and they were $3.95 each in 2007.
On the studs, I would suspect many auto parts stores can match one up if you drive it out. NAPA often will have a better assortment of the larger studs. I've bought them there on my SRW trucks. If your truck is converted aftermarket adapters instead of Ford adapters up front I doubt Ford will be of any help. Arrowcraft may be able to help you out. Come to think of it, Southwest Wheel sell DRW conversion kits as well. Dorman supplies most of the auto parts stores with lug studs. They may also be able to help if your local parts guys are unfamiliar/unwilling. Dorman Products
Where are you? I see the TX plates in your pics.
Welcome - Arrowcraft :: Helping You Handle the Road for over 30 years!
Southwest Wheel Company Steel and Aluminum Truck Wheels
I'm very interested in what you find out and how your truck is converted.
How do you spot one of these DRW conversions? There are several dead giveaways. One is the upfitter label on the drivers door jamb. Another is the factory vehicle data label. Every professional conversion I've seen started with an F-350 SRW crew cab 4x4. A crew cab 4x4 SRW has a GVWR of 9200 pounds. A factory 2X4 crew cab dually has a GVWR of 10,000 pounds or so. So if factory data label shows 9200# it started life as a SRW. The pic of the white XL truck in one of your links shows non DRW wheels on the front. This is the cheap way to convert a truck....just bolt on fenders and rear wheel adapters. Only individuals did it this way. The other thing is to lay on the ground underneath the bed and look at the fenders and how they attach. A factory DRW bed has a huge amount of metal cut out around the wheel opening. A converted truck will just have holes drilled thru the regular bed. This causes another headache if you ever need to replace a fender. Factory DRW fenders will not bolt up as the attachment is completely different. I found this out the hard way. Further complicating matters is there are at least 2 styles of aftermarket fenders. Mine, CNS Vehicles Inc., have about a 1" lip on them that allows installing the rear wheelwell moulding off the SRW trucks. I have seen one Roll-A-Long conversion with a lip. Centurian and Arrowcraft fenders do not have this. I have found no source for the fenders with lip. The factory fenders also do not have a lip.
That sounds like the ones Centurion used. They are junk and the studs are next to impossible to find. If you have to get them off, you will more than likely destroy them getting them off.
That sounds like the ones Centurion used. They are junk and the studs are next to impossible to find. If you have to get them off, you will more than likely destroy them getting them off.
Well shucks. That's not what I wanted to hear. We will see what is actually back there once he comes back for the other rig. Thankyou for the heads up.
Do you have a suggestion for hub extension that would be preffered? I can find 5/8 studs easily. I can't tell him he needs new wheels, spacers, lugs, studs and the whole bit to swap to 9/16" studs. I simply need a rear 5/8 to 5/8 spacer to kick out the duals a tad bit more.
Well not much has changed besides building the front end of my friends truck and swapping all his gear back from the dually over to it this weekend. Then the dual starts. Doing ADs and a RiffRaff FRX on a 2001 F350. Last weekend I saw the first set of clean sheared leaf springs on a customers 2000 F350truck... not sure how he did it, but I have never seen that before. Dropped in a set of X codes to replace it.
Found out I’m going to be a dad too… that’s a game changer…. A big game changer. Took a day for it to hit me.
Lastly with my rig. I am pretty damn sure the fuel pump just chit the bed pulling into work this morning. Lost a bit of power on the way in as if I was real low on oil and the truck was shutting down, as I was pulling over all of a sudden she came back to life… Got to work and couldn’t hear the pump at all, 0 psi on the gauge…Pump is not running at all with the truck running or off with the key on. I checked all the connections and they seem to be fine. I wish I had the stuff here to go directly to the pump from the battery to test.
So I am not sure how I’m going to get home but I doubt driving it on no fuel pressure is a good idea. That all being said…WTF Bosch.. 230$ pump that made it all of an oil change? I cleaned out my truck box this past weekend to get ready for the track....so that spare pump is sitting at home on the work bench. SO are all the tools I keep in it.
Nick, congrats on the baby! Will this be your first? Mine son is 5 months today already!
On the fuel pressure issue, I can't remember if you have the oil pressure switch or any other safety switches, but if you do I'd bet one of those failed cutting power to the pump.
Only took a day to hit you?! Took me 2 years! LOL Major congrats Nick. It's the best game changer there is!
Haha, yeah at least I think it hit me. Took a few beers on the back porch the day after to really think it over and realize, hey chit is about to change :-)
I just didn't really believe it till I went and picked up 3 different brands of those pee sticks. I needed three strikes!
Originally Posted by oldbird1965
First of all, congrats on the baby coming. Its a came changer for sure but the rewards are unbelievable!
Sorry about the pump. I can't believe a bosch would do that!
Thanks guys. I hope she can get through that first 12 weeks without a problem...and then have the following 6 months be issue free as well. Praying on that.
Originally Posted by cowmilker08
Nick, congrats on the baby! Will this be your first? Mine son is 5 months today already!
On the fuel pressure issue, I can't remember if you have the oil pressure switch or any other safety switches, but if you do I'd bet one of those failed cutting power to the pump.
Well congratulations! I will need as many pointers as I can get! Yes this is my first. The "plan" was to wait a couple more years, but you can't plan with a crazy wife like mine :-)
Regarding the fuel issue. I do have an oil pressure switch, but that should not cause the key on motor off 15 second prime to go away? Correct? My only though is the fusable link went in the strictly diesel harness. My electrical kit with fuses, test light and all that jazz is sitting on the workbench at home.
I wanted to run a jumper direct to the pump to see if it takes any juice. I still have a toggle unused from my water system. I might be able to wire that in and see if it works on direct on off fused power to get it home…. I’d be pretty disappointed if the oil pressure switch went out this early too… I have had bad luck with switches, manifold pressure or oil.
Drove mine home very carefully with no pump.had a blown fuse.popped the correct size in and no prob since.
So how far was that drive? I have 22 miles to get home. I went out and tried jumpers to a 12v power source direct to the pump. Nothing. The relay is working properly, as I can hear is click off after about 15 seconds. I jumpered the oil pressure switch for turning the key on and off to see if it would prime, eventhough that was pointless. Direct 12v power source to the pump and it should have done something, but nothing.
So can I take the back roads home and just call a tow truck if I don't make it? It ran on 0 pressure. I assume the system siphons out of the full tank. I just don't want to hurt the injectors at all and make this a big azz problem.
To follow up with that slight fuel leak mention a couple weeks ago, It was simply off the 1/8 nipple for the fuel pressure gauge, nothing major.
I’m also trying to think if there is anything I did wrong to cause the pump to fail. I thought it was really noisy since day one, wish I could hear another system with an 044 in action to see if anything is abnormal. These are great pumps “supposedly”. They are the Honda civic of big HP fuel systems.
Since day one I did notice the fuel pressure bleeds down rather quick once the pump has shut off. It doesn’t hold pressure for more than say 5 seconds as it drops to 0 psi, but that is what I’d expect. I can’t imagine I flip flopped any of the lines, but if I did I’d assume she would shut down well before an empty tank if I was pulling from a return line or something like that. I know I’m rattling off quite a bit, but I just figured this pump would have lasted 100k or more, not 3k. I’m just trying to think what have caused it. I will be close to 500 bucks in for 3 fuel pumps now after I pick up a spare…. That’s unheard of.
Am I missing something on specs? Do I have too much restriction in the system?
Bosch 0 580 254 044 Inline Fuel Pump
Bosch 044 fuel pumps mount inline (out side of your gas tank), most commonly rear center under your car or truck. Each Bosch 044 inline fuel pump provides 300LPH of flow and operate at 72.5 PSI. Bosch 0-580-254-044 fuel pumps are comparable to the Walbro 255LPH high pressure inline fuel pumps which can both support vehicles for up to 600-700 horse power. Can be used in sequence with an intank Walbro or Bosch 040 fuel pump.
04-12-2015, 11:03 AM
