BTW Jim at Rosewood Diesel is awesome! Super quick and informative, and dealt with me changing my mind a few times over the last few days... Wasn't planning on doing both trucks on the same week...and now I am. He was able to get both sets out today and here by Thursday to get it done! Pretty impressed, and he was super quick to reply on all my question by email. I wish more businesses were run this way now days. Really looking forward to seeing the difference on my personal truck with the stage 1's too! I need to get the chip reburned ASAP though... does the list ever end....

 

No the list never ends lol. When I cleared the oil out of the cylinders, I didn't touch the HPOP res. just had the 42 pin connector undone and I pulled fuse 22 at the same time. Cranked it a few times and blew everything out.

 

Well I mighty vacd the HPOP rez per instruction through a write up I looked up. I guess it really doesn't matter then. I'll just pull the plug and fuse, then crank, and double check to make sure we are all clear before I put the glow plugs in. Plus I'll have a solid 5 days to maybe get some seepage past the rings

He decided to have me do the turbo as well....

Are the fuel bowl caps for the SD the same as our OBS fuel caps. I want to get this order submitted today and havn't gotten a call back from RiffRaff, nor can I find an OBS fuel bowl cap on there...guess I'll just go to Ford for one.

 

Nossliw I am following this thread as my truck is doing much the same thing as yours only my fuel pressure is going back and forth. The cloud of smoke on start up and croaking while driving just like when one gels.

When are you going to be doing the truck you have been writing about and what all are your plans with it? I am totally new to the electronic injection as my others all were mechanical injection as were the ones I played maintenance mechanic on.

 

I read through you entire thread over there as well.

First off... My stall out during driving was due to excessive oil consumption over time. My truck had maybe burned .5 qt to .75 qts over 4k miles the last 3 oil changes. Well it got a lot worse and I lost about 6 quarts over 4000 miles on this last oil change. Recently on the cold starts I have noticed a pretty distinct hue of blue in the sunlight(oil burning). I never saw this over the last couple months because I leave at 430-5am every morning. I just noticed it the other day during a smoky startup. The catch is my fuel bowl does not have any oil mixing with diesel in it. I think in your thread you may have seen this..or not cant remember exactly. So this told me my orings were ok. I looked in my downpipe and do not have any residue that shows aparent turbo leakage. .. I also just rebuilt it less than 4k ago. I also am not leaking a drop underneath...leaks bug the **** outta me and I fix them at first notice.

I think you had mentioned in your other thread that your fuel pressure was very low. I'd take a look at this first and try to get that corrected before moving on from there, probably the lack of power or cut out while driving. Luckily the mechanical fuel pumps are fairly easy to install and rather cheap considering when compared to and electric fuel system build... no reason for e-fuel unless you jumping up in injector size quite a bit....stock pump on stock injectors is just fine.

Ohm out your GP system as well. I did this and found all 8 glowplugs were shot on the fleet truck... less than a year old but I guess that's what morons and ether do to glow plugs :=) I still have to double check my GP system on my truck.

So after replacing the entire glow plug system, and having fresh oil the truck still had the same issue when below 30 degrees. (This goes for the fleet truck and my personal truck)

We had another truck that did this a couple years back and had all the injectors replaced...never had a problem since with it... I'm convinced its worn poppet valves...check out the link back a page that was posted... Sounds isenticle to my symptoms.

I'm putting the stock injectors in this Thursday in the fleet truck. I will be putting the stage 1 injectors in my personal truck and DD on Sat/Sunday. I will keep updating the progress and changes to both truck in this thread, because I have been chasing problems with my DD truck for a year now, and wanted to replace everything small before I had to do the injectors and High pressure oil pump (HPOP)

My plans with my truck are simply being a DD and towing heavy time to time. I have many threads under my user name that I have started over the past year with issues and modifications I have done to the truck. Its really not much performance wise, but I had a ton of basic maintainance I had to do when I bought it... bad injectors/clutch/ cps/ and the laundry list goes on.... it was a pile of junk I got for a good deal but only with 114k miles...if the compression numbers were not so amazing I would never have bought it.... needed a ton of work. Cost a ton before I could start putting goodies on it.

I'm going to be putting a stage 1 set of injectors in it and a T500 pump and probably wont do efuel or a turbo for a year or longer... I just want to enjoy the truck a bit and not have a serious project ever fricking month of the year.

 

Well another rough morning.... Truck was plugged in since 130 am and tried to start it at 515am...nothing..no fire once again. My oil level is fine and this is the first time the truck has not started right away when plugged in. This sort of puts me at a loss. I really am tired of this and I am sure hoping the injectors are the culprit, otherwise I really am not sure how much more of this I can handle.

I was supposed to be at work an hour ago, and I have no other way to get there since my gas truck is 30 miles away at my uncles. Wife is at work so I guess I sit here till the thing starts...not sure what its going to take but man oh man I hope its sooner than later. Sitting in front of the computer pissed off caused me to buy the T500 to install this weekend as well. At least then I know it wont be an HPOP issue either... sure seems as if the motor isn't injecting fuel though....

 

Are you getting any smoke out the tailpipe?

I hate to suggest this, but if it was me, I would probably have unhooked the GPR (mine has a small two wire connection that can be unhooked to disable the GP's) and given it a little snort of ether (emphasis being on LITTLE). I hate the stuff, but few thing bother me more than being late...especially to work.

 

No smoke out the tailpipe at the moment which I do not understand. Seems as if I'm not getting any fuel. I highly doubt I gelled up last night and I'd suspect the block heater would prevent that. I will pop the top on the bowl here in a few minutes and see.

 

Something isn't right here. Even with your suspected bad injectors you should be smoking while cranking. Does the tach flutter while you're cranking it (bad CPS maybe)? Got a WTS light?

 

I get a WTS light is fairly short... usually is when the truck is plugged in for a while. Stays on much longer when not plugged in. I know the block heater is working because the fuel bowl and top end of the engine were warm. There was fuel in the bowl too.

Ether got it to turn over for a short bit, but I think it was running on vapor stored in the IC. I'm waiting for a friend to show up to jump off of. my battery charger is not cutting it and both batteries are now dead from cranking.

I have not replaced the CPS, current one is 9 months old from Motorcraft... do these go out that quick? I am absolutely going to swing by and grab a spare one from Ford today.



Man this pissed me off this morning!

 

Is the tachometer bouncing while you crank it?

 

You could try unplugging the ICP when your buddy gets there to give you a jump too.

 

Well I got it started. I have no idea what changed. Once he came by it took a good 2 minutes or so of cranking to get it to fire. Once it did, it fired right up and ran great…no sticky injectors… no white smoke…nothing. I know it had to be 1 of 3 things. One, and the reason I believe, is it simply was not getting fuel. Two, the HPOP was not generating enough pressure to start, or 3 the CPS was bad.


I was not getting any smoke out the pipe while cranking. The tach was not fluttering, but I have made the comment before that the tach does not flutter on this truck… ever…. when cranking. It will start right up during the summer within 1-3 seconds, but even then the tach does not bounce. I know what you mean because it is very evident on all the other fleet trucks that are autos when it bounces during cranking.

The really odd thing that happened and maybe by coincidence and maybe not was the truck fired right when I touched the DP chip controller rom from tune 1 > tune2 (80e tune). The 80e tune is also what unsticks my injectors instantly when I step on it when the engine is still cold getting onto the highway. They clear instantly under the 80e tune when stomping on it, but on the stock tune it takes about 10 miles till the motor temp comes up and then they both unstick. Coincisence??? I dont know...weird...yes... makes me then question the HPOP

Man I sure wish I had AE to check some of these parameters...that on the list after I get back from ND.


I made it to work but not until it threw me another hitch….




Take a look… yes that’s the fricking belt rubber all over the alternator, because the tensioner pulley seized up about 3 miles out. I heard a squealing and had no idea what it was, and popped the hood to find that once I got to work. This truck is absolutely unreal. The first month I had it, the idler pulley seized and snapped on me throwing the belt, I replaced the idler pulley and belt, now I get to replace the tensioner pulley and belt once again…. I have never had these failures on any other vehicle I have ever owned… this truck is from hell I tell ya.

I have an Oreilly up the road from here and a Ford dealer about a mile out. I need to replace the tensioner pulley, but don’t want the belt to snap on me before I can get to it. I have never had to do this either, so I was wondering if I can remove the nut/bolt holding the pulley on ( if even possible) or if I need to replace the entire tensioner which looks to be attached by a torx bolt…. Lemme know if you have any advice….


I guess I’ll trouble shoot the starting issue later. Going to go out and try to figure out how to get the tensioner fixed at lunch…. And pick up a CPS from Ford, hopefully they have a damn tensioner pulley in stock, knowing my luck I’ll need the entire unit….. if the bearing is in the tensioner arm itself.


1 step forward 100 yards back down the hill….


I keep asking how does a truck with 124k on it have so many problems….. I baby and maintain the crap out of my vehicles...preious owner must have just hated this truck or somthn'

 

Glad you got it started. What a mess! Good luck with the parts search. I'm not much help with the tensioner.

 

196 dollars for the tensioner from FORD(Really???) or a 33 dollar pulley from oreilly. I rarely ever put anything non OEM on my vehicle but since I started this thread I have spent a ton more than expected...so Oreilly it is for a pulley...at least to get me home. Heard some pretty bad nightmares in a few other threads of the steel torx bolt for the tensioner seized in the aluminum bracket... I don't want to run ito that either....

Pulley is toast tensioner is fully functionable.


Thanks again for all your help... I'll try to update as this starting issue gets resolved...