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Nick, I would like to take credit for cutting out the firewall but Darin & Bill did that. I just used a porta power until I was blue in the face, LOL. At 1600 rpm I still have a vibration but oh well.
I moved the firewall back quite a bit. I looked at it again after I tightened the vband down and realized I am no longer rubbing on the firewall, but The down pipe is resting pretty good on the bellows, and sits firm on the outside of the transmission housing. I guarantee any noise will come from the part sitting on the trans. I will try to fiddle with it a bit more but I think it isn't going to get much better. I'd do a 1" body lift if I could, but all of my bumper lines I worked so hard on for perfection will be shot.... so no.
You probably can hear vibrations in your truck with all that slick sound deadening insulation. Hope to do that some day when I get to the interior. I swear the standard cab manuals are freaking loud in the cab. My brothers ECLB and our CCSB are both deadly quiet compared to this truck. My point is even if there is a rattle, I do not think I can hear it over the injectors clapping for more fuel! Now I said that. I'm sure it will rattle like hell.
How much contact would you say there is between the firewall and DP? Would using a bit of exhaust wrap around that area help with the rattle sound?
I will be denting in the down pipe before I get to that point. I have 2 points with 0.0000000001" of clearance right now on the DP, one pt. at the bellows and the other pt on the trans. Free from the fire wall by maybe a playing card thickness. maybe a bit more. Mocking a setup on the block is one thing...I'm just going to stop there...I'm the idiot who was too lazy to fab it myself. Sorry for venting it was very frustrating is all.
Dang!! A few thousandths of an inch tolerance! Doesn't get much tighter than that! Don't need to worry about the venting, it's understandable. Doesn't the engine bay insulation reach over to where the DP is? It would seem like a hanger in the lower exhaust is causing the rest of the system to vibrate like angrily.
Dang!! A few thousandths of an inch tolerance! Doesn't get much tighter than that! Don't need to worry about the venting, it's understandable. Doesn't the engine bay insulation reach over to where the DP is? It would seem like a hanger in the lower exhaust is causing the rest of the system to vibrate like angrily.
I was kidding around. There practically isn't any clearance at all anywhere with the motor pushed as far forward as possible. If the insulation were removed I'd say maybe 3/8 on the fire wall. With the insulation you can't see daylight. The truck is still sitting, haven't driven it yet, only then will I know if there is a vibration.
Oh right on.
Well I'm holding off on buying my exhaust and spyder from Clay for now. I'm going to wait until after leave, so I don't run into any unforeseen purchases my car might need. The rebuild is still going to take a while to get started for me, once normalcy returns I should be set. And since RRE isn't going to happen for me this year, I'm in no hurry to get things done.
Best of luck when you fire her up! It's always upsetting when things don't go right.
The only thing I would worry about Nick is if it rubs on the trans and getting a hole in it. Irate's first design of the up pipes had the bellow in a wrong place on the drivers side and mine rubbed and started leaking. After a lot of complaining, he sent me a new set of up pipes that had the 'new design' and I haven't had problems since.
The only thing I would worry about Nick is if it rubs on the trans and getting a hole in it. Irate's first design of the up pipes had the bellow in a wrong place on the drivers side and mine rubbed and started leaking. After a lot of complaining, he sent me a new set of up pipes that had the 'new design' and I haven't had problems since.
I remember reading that in your thread. The bellow isn't touching my trans or the pinch seam on the tunnel, however the DP touches the bellow on the passenger side... I'll keep an eye on it, if it rubs through I will be building my own set correctly...
Well I drug the wife out to the shop last night and put her to work, mainly holding a flashlight, but she did some actual "work" too. We tossed the new input bearing in the flywheel and put the flywheel and clutch back in the truck. I think it has 2 or more years left on it. Been very happy with LUK considering what I put this truck through. After that we will go with a south bend or valair due to the HP and TQ.
I let her go at it painting the transmission. Last time she painted something I told here I'd never let her paint again, so this time she actually took her time and did a pretty dam good job after taping it up. No runs is all I asked for, and I got my wish. Tonight the trans goes back in the truck, that is after I finish beating the firewall in for the down pipe and I will start cleaning up the T case housing for paint. Hope to have the T case in Thursday night and I will do the Ujoints Sunday and start on assembling the efuel. All we will have left is getting the chip reburned and waiting on strictly diesel wiring harness, as it has been on back order for some time and I want this pig running soon!
One thing to note is the tranny had a 42 tail housing on it, everything has been upgraded to a 47, but the front case was a 47. I had a minor crack near the 4wd linkage mt, and they went ahead and tossed on a 47 housing to replace it. It will be weird having a truck that actually shifts!
If you upgraded all the internals of the trans to 47 stuff, you would have had to done a 47 rear extension housing anyway. The 47 and 42 extension housings are different.
Originally Posted by nossliw
I will be denting in the down pipe before I get to that point. I have 2 points with 0.0000000001" of clearance right now on the DP, one pt. at the bellows and the other pt on the trans. Free from the fire wall by maybe a playing card thickness. maybe a bit more. Mocking a setup on the block is one thing...I'm just going to stop there...I'm the idiot who was too lazy to fab it myself. Sorry for venting it was very frustrating is all.
Is your trans back in the truck? If not, do you have the engine tilted forward any or blocked up? If the engine isn't sitting right where it will be when the trans is in, this may be the problem with the DP fittment. I wouldn't even try to fit the DP in until the trans is back in and sitting on the cross member, and everything is where it will be. Tilting the engine the least bit forward is gonna drastically close up the hole the DP has to go through. I didn't read back to see if the trans was back in yet, just throwing that out as a thought.
If you upgraded all the internals of the trans to 47 stuff, you would have had to done a 47 rear extension housing anyway. The 47 and 42 extension housings are different.
Agreed, and yes we did exactly that.
Is your trans back in the truck? If not, do you have the engine tilted forward any or blocked up? If the engine isn't sitting right where it will be when the trans is in, this may be the problem with the DP fittment. I wouldn't even try to fit the DP in until the trans is back in and sitting on the cross member, and everything is where it will be. Tilting the engine the least bit forward is gonna drastically close up the hole the DP has to go through. I didn't read back to see if the trans was back in yet, just throwing that out as a thought.
Yes its in. The t case and shaft are in as well. I am going to try to slide the motor forward a bit more too, not sure if I can even get it to budge with everything in, but I'm going to give it a try. I unclamped the DP and dented with an air chisel and bull nose where it was sitting on the bellows. It looks that I will have to do the same where it sits on the transmission. To be clear, there is no way in hell the pipe will be going in or out with the transmission in. I know it should, but its way too tight, and has to slide in with the pipe angled towards the input bearing. I can take a picture to visualize it a bit more, but I have no idea how in the world it would even angle enough to remove or install. So its in for good right now. Thank you for the advice!
Well this weekend I had a couple hours to wrap up the driveline and rebuild the T case. Its all back in except for the front drive shaft. I didn't have time to pop the Ujoints out and replace them. I think I'm going to run the royal purple synchromax, but at 16$ a qt off amazon I'm wondering what truly is the best for these. What do you guys all run? I know what the spec fluid is, but am curious. Also I have heard of guys over filling above the check plug through the top of the trans. Is this truly a good idea? or should I fill to the specified level?
A lot of the the tranny shops around here claim running a synthetic 10/30 motor oil is best for the ZF5's, why not run a 5/30 then? I can't imagine the detergent packages and viscosity differences between motor oil and atf are even close. I'm hesitant but am curious why they would even suggest it.
Well I finally got a couple hours after no work for a week. Ended up going with RP synchro max in the trans overfilled by 2 qts, syn ATF in the t case. Replaced the u joint and reinstalled the shafts. Started dicking around with the efuel again. It's coming along. Need to go grab a few more fittings after the discovery that I have almost no room behind that t case and my front tank... You guys and all that space... Not on a standard cab by any means. So I started bending up some strap and think I have a nifty way to get it all to fit snug. Before I start tacking it up and drilling holes I wanted to check on which hose going into the selector valve is the feed. Knowing my luck it's the second one closest to the frame on top. I did not look closely and now that I think about it I figured I'd ask. I know the return is the 5/16 line, just forgot to look closely. Anyways you will see what I mean as my filter mount will sit on the inside of the frame above the front tank skid plate right inside in the selector valve. I'm hoping to pivot the 90 on the valve 90 degrees towards the pumpkin and swivel or loop soft line into my pre filter. The secondary filter post pump will be an easy tie in just very tight. I'll post a pic when I get it figured out but I do not have more than a foot between the case and the front of the tank. Outside the frame would be easy, but will get ripped off when camping and absolutely pelted and destroyed with rocks and chit, this is not a highway queen. I don't see anywhere else close that it can fit.
I fabbed up a mount for the FPR and fuel Y block, some day I'm going to redo it all with hard lines, but not till the motor comes out. The y block fits nicely below the FPR on a second mount. Curious to see how they handle the vibration of the motor. Used nylock nuts on all the bolts. Need to clean them up and clear coat the aluminum mounts.
Wrapped the hoses with aluminiflex heat wrap, I will see how long the tape lasts, I feel with the routing it should be fine.
Hope to jump on it again Wednesday and actually start getting it put together, still have the driven diesel harness.... I effing hate wiring!
02-26-2015, 12:57 PM
Now I said that. I'm sure it will rattle like hell.
maybe a bit more. Mocking a setup on the block is one thing...I'm just going to stop there...I'm the idiot who was too lazy to fab it myself. Sorry for venting it was very frustrating is all.
