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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old 11-12-2012, 10:01 PM
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Dana rear end



Finally found a dana rear end that I think will fit my F-3

Came out of a F-350 I think 1979.

Has a larger tube than original but I think I can get around that.

The sway bar will probably go. What do others think about shocks. Mine never had them, are they worth installing mounts and shocks?
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:51 AM
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1963/78 & 1979 F350 2WD: Dana 70 / 1979 F350 4WD: Dana 60.
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:20 PM
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Having a helluva time breaking loose the lug nuts, but I'll get em.

Bought the rear end for $100 delivered to inside my shop.

Don't think I can go too far wrong.

Are there single rear wheels that will fit this thing?

Four tires is bad enough, six would upset the little woman.
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:25 PM
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The Dana 70 is the same with or without DRW. What makes the difference are the SRW or DRW's hubs and drums.

NOTE: Left side lug nuts may not be the same as right, turn the wrench t'other way.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:04 AM
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Went over to where the donor truck was parked and got a helluva surprise. Looked on the door post and build date on the tag was 5-85. Now I'm not sure what I got.
Still measures 41" between spring pads, has a larger than three inch tube (3 1/2 maybe) Looked up Dana Rear End ID on line, got pictures think it may be a 10.25 Ford.
It has the lug nuts with the integral washer if that helps any.
Noy the sellers fault, he told me where the truck was and I went over and measured the spring pads and didn't look at much else.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:09 AM
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AXLE code printed on the Certification Label where you found the production date.

Rear axle ID tag located under one of the bolts that retains the inspection cover to the housing. Don't be surprised if it's missing.

Sterling 10.25 introduced in 1985, rear hub diameter is much larger than Dana 60/70. Hubcaps/wheel covers specific to Sterling axle, Dana's won't fit.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:20 AM
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Thanks ND, looks like it's gonna fit but will need some drive shaft modification. Will have to take another ride over and look for that code. Glad its only a couple miles away.
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:15 PM
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From the pictures you have a Sterling 10.25. Sounds like you lucked out and got an axle from a chassis cab truck so the spring perches are in the right spot. Just a note the track width on that axle is 67" compared to your stock 61"

Regular wheels will fit fine instead of the duals. The Sterlings used the same hubs for SRW and DRW. They use wheels with a 4.89" center hole where older axles used 4.75". It can be ground down easily enough if your creative. Ford updated the Dana 70 to the bigger hub a year later anyways. Sterlings have easily removed drums and a nice o ring to seal the axle shaft compared to the Dana 70.

If your going to be driving your truck alot it wouldn't hurt to keep the rear swaybar, just be sure to add a front one to keep it balanced.
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:09 PM
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I got it pretty well stripped down and setting under the springs. It does look a bit wide. Measured with the dual wheels and tires and it measured 7 feet even, same width as my flatbed. Can a sway bar be mounted on a stock front axle?

Also it has a funky spring loaded nut holding the hubs on the spindles, any idea where to get a tool to remove them? I used a punch on one side but would prefer the proper tool to reassemble them.
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:18 AM
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There is a special socket you can buy pretty much anywhere.
Click the image to open in full size.

Hopefully you didn't damage the nut with the punch as the rachet mechanism isn't indestructable. Usually they are pretty stiff to remove. There is a torque spec on putting them back on. I'm pretty sure they went to this design to simplify bearing setup and to PREVENT people from using a chisel to remove/set the old jamnuts as doing them that way often had the whole hub assembly come off on the road.
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:58 AM
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That nut looks like what I am dealing with. Don't think I damaged it, found if I pushed in and then turned it move fairly easy, just took an hour of tinkerin to get it all the way off.
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:58 AM
 
 
 
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