I just overhauled the suspension and brake systems on my '97 AWD Aerostar XLT. 3-door hatchback, E-4WD. ~115,000, some oil in coolant. (have a slight oil leak as well)

NEVER a previous engine issue, aside from an occasional misfire caused by a oil gasket leak that causes oil to run down the manifold and foul the front two drivers-side spark plugs, that I change as needed.

On the way to the shop to get three coil springs installed to complete the suspension work, after driving normally for about 15 minutes, all the power dropped out and the van stalled.

I popped it in neutral while coasting and restarted it, I was able to drive it another 40yds or so before the same thing happened; I put the pedal to the floor and after a seconds hesitation regained power, and then it would try to stall every 5-10 seconds the same way until, after repeating this process several times, and despite holding the accelerator down, it stalled completely.

I pulled over and cranked the engine: It would start for a few seconds really rough, and stall out. I cranked the battery dead and my wife jumped me. Still no luck. This was yesterday.

After spending the rest of the evening looking for an ICM, I found out it doesnt exist in the '96 or '97 editions but is integrated into the ECM. (and mind you, Autozone lists a part, and a Ford dealership parts division couldn't even tell me it doesnt exist, but rather gave me another false location, if that gives you an idea of what kind of support is available for the AWD's.)

This morning I eliminated the Catalytic possibility by smacking the converter with a hammer, and then disconnected the negative battery terminal to 'reboot' the ECM, to see if that would solve it. Eureka! It starts and runs, only to stall 15 seconds later.

My friend fired some starter fluid into the intake while the engine was stalling, and it worked to keep the engine running, so after that we knew it was a fuel problem. Makes sense considering i've never had a touch of electrical or compression problems, unless the ECM had gone haywire. We turn the key to pre-ignition to check for fuel pump power-on: We hear it, confirming several times.

I traced the fuel line to the fuel filter and we replaced it. This made a significant difference, and we thought it was fixed. The van started and ran, and we got back on the road to the shop. Drove for about 5 miles with no problems, stopping at several intersections, until at a third intersection the van started wanting to stall again during idle. It got worse and stalled in the middle of the road. We used starter fluid to get it into the parking lot and parked it.

We checked to hear for the fuel pump power-on again and didnt hear it this time, again checking over and over. This leads us to think its the fuel pump. Sounds like its giving its last attempts at running.

Anyone know where/if there is a shutoff switch in the '97 AWD 4.0 XLT? I want to check that before I drop the friggin' gas tank in a parking lot tomorrow and fork over the $120 for the pump.

Thanks!

 

behind the passenger side kick panel, has a reset switch.

can also be the fuel pump relay or your fuel pump shot.

may be a dirty load of fuel and new filter is plugged.

there is a fuel pressure test and pressure relief port on the passenger side fuel rail about half way back on top of intake manifold. Schrader valve type. be careful can get a face-full of raw fuel spray. 35 psi

 

Listen for the relay clicking when you turn the key to the "ON" position. If it clicks, the pump should run with it during the 2 second on time. If there is no click, then maybe the relay has failed. But if it clicks, and you don't hear the pump running, it's probably failed. Since the relay either works or it doesn't, the intermittent nature of your symptoms would indicate the pump is failing. At this point, it's going to be hard to measure fuel pressure, and even if you can generate some pressure, I would not count on the readings.

 

thank you for your responses.

so you're saying the pump should click even if it doesn't run?

I know there are clicks at the front of the car when you set the key to the ignition position before starting it...

so if it doesnt click i can be sure its a relay?

relay is just another term for fuse right? or for the wires running to the pump?

i checked all the fuses and none were blown.

 

Sounds like the fuel pump failed. If it clicks but not pumping the fuel pump is bad. It goes bad if your running it low on gas or out of gas a few times. I have seen one that failed from ethanol gas settles in bottom from setting a long time.

 

I might add that oil in the cooling system needs to be fixed. It could oil from the transmission lines leaking inside the radiator. You need to fix that soon asap. Check to see if your fluid is low or water is getting in transmission cause it will fail and blow the radiator seam, which it sounds like the radiator is bad already.

 

Let me clarify about the key-on sequence: When you turn the key to the on position, the fuel pump is supposed to run for 2 seconds to pressurize the line. The pump is powered through a relay, so what you should first hear is a click of the relay when it turns on, then another click when it turns off 2 seconds later. In the interim, you should hear the fuel pump run. The pump is mounted on the top of the tank, which is under the floor on the driver's side. If you have a lot of stuff sitting on the floor behind the driver's seat, you may not hear the pump run. So you might ask an assistant to listen for it from the outside of the van, near the middle of the tank.

As Muffinman stated, if the tank was allowed to run very low or empty, it would cause the pump to overheat, as it uses the circulating fuel to keep itself cool. I too have seen pumps ruined by fuels with high-alcohol content.

 

Thanks everyone for the support and information. I really appreciate it.

Turns out it was the fuel pump. I checked for the shutoff switch- Turns out it had been bypassed by the previous owner, as I found a wad of electrical tape behind the kickplate where I assume it used to be.

Once that possibility was dealt with we just dropped the tank and popped a new fuel pump in, and it was fixed. Had the springs popped in the next morning, and she's running and handling beautifully.

Just made a 900 mile ride through the mountains on I-75 from Detroit, MI to Charleston, SC with no problems.

 

Glad you got it fixed and got some experience dropping fuel tanks. I hope you put that fuel shut off back in. that might have saved you the fuel pump or being burned up in wreck.