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Old 11-09-2012, 07:10 PM
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2.3 missing when accelerating ? Don't know what to do?

I have a 2001 ranger 2wd with a 2.3. It has a miss when acceleration. There is no check engine light. I have changed: fuel filter. Plugs, wires, crank position. Sensor, cleaned mass air flow sensor. Ran 2 bottles of injector cleaner in it. Still missing???? It runs and idles great. Just has a miss in the lower RPM's 1000-2000 then goes away. I really don't wanna take it to a shop. What do you all think??
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:09 PM
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how about the ignition coil? Generally a miss under load is an igniton problem. looks like you have tried everything but that.
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:48 PM
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? Any other ideas
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No spark plugs here

01 F350 7.3psd 5" lift 35'' nitto,CCV,GTP38R,AHI delete,riffraff FRx kit, bellowed up pipes, DP tunes-60,80,120.AFe stage II intake, Pete's cover,4'' ss exhaust no muffler, 4 gauges, foil delete, tugger kit,6.0 trans cooler.08 diff cover. Riffraff IC boots
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:20 PM
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I second getting a new coil also.
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:17 AM
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If you can, try disabling the EGR. It can get gummed up, causing the valve to be passing gas when it shouldn't and vice versa. If it has a diaphragm, disconnect and plug the line with a golf tee for testing. Don't leave it that way, or you'll get lower mpg and pinging is more likely.

What does it do if you accelerate hard? If it were a fuel delivery or restriction problem, you'd notice it more I'd think under heavy load, such as acceleration. Contaminated fuel can lead to intermittent misfire, on acceleration or at cruise. If you have a gauge with a fuel tap, you can collect a good sample. Let it sit in a clear container, and look for water globules to form at the bottom. Alcohol should be able to absorb minimal nuisance amounts of water in the fuel.
I had a set of plug wires that idled fine, but would cause the engine to 'buck' under light throttle while cruising ~40-45 mph. Found out it was the wires by running the engine after dark. Light show... New wires fixed that. Are your replacements good quality?
Given that this engine has SEFI, I'd think the cam position sensor could mess up the injector synch, causing them to fire at the wrong time. I think that could lead to minor miss, and a drop in power and efficiency. It would still run, but not as well. Don't think it would be intermittent, though.
Not too sure why a coil would work fine, and then go intermittent. If it has loose mounting bolts, or bad ground, that could change with rpm and vibration.
tom
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:52 PM
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The problem only happens during 1500-2000 rpm. If I was in 5th gear going 55 and tried to accelerate it will buck and miss a couple times, then go away. If you try to accelerate in all the gears it does it at first then goes away. Seem to happen when you push on the pedal hard. I replaced the CPS, no help, I am going to change plugs and wires tonight. It has done this with 4 tanks of fuel, fuel filter was replaced last week no help. I do not see plug wires arching at night.

I am thinking erg valve? Can this be cleaned ? Or just replaced?
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:28 PM
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During your repairs, did you disconnect the neg. Battery cable?

It should be done when you remove or clean sensors.

How are your plugs and wires?

Did you actually check for pending codes?
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khadma View Post
During your repairs, did you disconnect the neg. Battery cable?

It should be done when you remove or clean sensors.

How are your plugs and wires?

Did you actually check for pending codes?
i did disconnect the negtive battery cable. i have new plugs and wire i am going to install tonight. i do not have a scanner. there in no check engine light. will there be soft codes stored? HOW do you get the EGR valve out to clean it? it looks like i will have to take every thing off the top of the motor to get that thing off!
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No spark plugs here

01 F350 7.3psd 5" lift 35'' nitto,CCV,GTP38R,AHI delete,riffraff FRx kit, bellowed up pipes, DP tunes-60,80,120.AFe stage II intake, Pete's cover,4'' ss exhaust no muffler, 4 gauges, foil delete, tugger kit,6.0 trans cooler.08 diff cover. Riffraff IC boots
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:20 PM
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I though you said you had replaced the plugs and the wires. That would be the first thing to do.
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:35 AM
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What you describe is what I call a 'stumble'. The MAF is the most likely culprit, followed by the fuel pressure regulator & pump. When you step on the gas pedal, the throttle opens, and the gas, air, can flow right in. It will flow quicker, or accelerate into the manifold, quicker than liguid fuel. To make up for the blurt of air, the fuel pressure regulator bumps the fuel pressure to allow a richer 'squirt' of fuel for that short period of time. If the MAF lies or the regulator {pump, filter, possibly} aren't quite there, you'll get a stumble, just for a short time until all the other stuff 'settles down' to a more or less constant flow. At least that's how I understand what's happening.
tom
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomw View Post
What you describe is what I call a 'stumble'. The MAF is the most likely culprit, followed by the fuel pressure regulator & pump. When you step on the gas pedal, the throttle opens, and the gas, air, can flow right in. It will flow quicker, or accelerate into the manifold, quicker than liguid fuel. To make up for the blurt of air, the fuel pressure regulator bumps the fuel pressure to allow a richer 'squirt' of fuel for that short period of time. If the MAF lies or the regulator {pump, filter, possibly} aren't quite there, you'll get a stumble, just for a short time until all the other stuff 'settles down' to a more or less constant flow. At least that's how I understand what's happening


tom
It does seem more like a stumble than a miss.
Is the a way to test either one of them( MAF, fuel pressure regulator)? I had the truck checked for trouble codes , but there was no codes.
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Old 11-17-2012, 07:48 AM
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You can 'borrow' a gauge from some parts houses, with a 'you break it, you bought it' caution. Testing the fuel pressure, at idle, and then with a quick pop on the throttle, would show if the regulator was functioning. You can also test volume by capturing fuel into a container for a measured amount of time. {Most gauges have a valve and small hose you can direct into a container}
You can take the MAF apart and inspect the two wires. Even a tiny spot of dirt or insect stuff can mess up the MAF, but dirt generally causes another code.
tom
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Old 11-17-2012, 07:48 AM
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