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  #1  
Old 11-09-2012, 09:53 AM
JonArmy JonArmy is offline
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Well time for new batteries

Well as the topic states it's time for me to get new batteries for the truck. Well I know that some topics have talked about what type battery to get, well I'm planning on getting Duralast/Battery (65-DL) | 2004 Ford F350 Super Duty P/U 4WD 8 Cylinders P 6.0L Turbo Diesel | AutoZone.com from AutoZone

Yes I know that some people have issues with AutoZone parts, but I feel that right now this would be a good option.

When I get them I plan on changing the passenger side first then drivers side.

The reason I feel I need batteries, this morning at ambient was 30, cycled the key a few times for the glow plugs to fully warm up and get stuff ready. I had my AE connected and monitored battery voltage and it droped all the way down to 8 volts, it was iffy at first start up then the second time it cranked and held around 12v while the glow plugs were still on before the alternator kicked in. When the alternator kicked in the voltage stayed around 12.5 to 13.5v

I had load tested my batteries with my handheld one by one not connected to each other and not run for the day and that was during summer and everything was good, but with the temp dropping low and more time with glow plugs and so I don't screw the FICM I want to change the batteries to confirm and if later a alternator is bad then it will get changed, worse case would be the FICM sent to Ed.
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:04 AM
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I would go to Wal-Mart and pick up the Everstart Maxx 850CCA batteries. 99 dollars a piece, 3 year free replacement, and made by Johnson Controls plus there's always a ton in stock.
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:23 AM
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I bought to AutoZone Batterys the Step up from whay your looking at they were the 850CCA ones

They had a 8 year warrenty with the 3 year Free replacement

Well 3 weeks Shy of the 3 year free replacement I notice they were struggling so I replaced them for free

1 Battery had a Bad Cell the Other Battery had a Cell I could see going bad Hydro testing

So AZ Did replace Both at that time But IMO 3 Years Isnt the Best

I think there are better Options out there

Will see how these New Batterys Hold Up but If they Die again within 4 Years I will be Looking for a Better Option maybe I am Expecting to much from Batterys IDK this Diesel does Work them Pretty Good at each startup
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:36 AM
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Everybody's got their opinion I guess but I've had good luck with the AZ batteries. I have a pair of Duralast gold tops in now and expect good service from them. (Hope I didn't just jinx it )
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:45 AM
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[quote=JonArmy;12466529]Well as the topic states it's time for me to get new batteries for the truck. Well I know that some topics have talked about what type battery to get, well I'm planning on getting Duralast/Battery (65-DL) | 2004 Ford F350 Super Duty P/U 4WD 8 Cylinders P 6.0L Turbo Diesel | AutoZone.com from AutoZone

Yes I know that some people have issues with AutoZone parts, but I feel that right now this would be a good option.

When I get them I plan on changing the passenger side first then drivers side.

The reason I feel I need batteries, this morning at ambient was 30, cycled the key a few times for the glow plugs to fully warm up and get stuff ready. I had my AE connected and monitored battery voltage and it droped all the way down to 8 volts, it was iffy at first start up then the second time it cranked and held around 12v while the glow plugs were still on before the alternator kicked in. When the alternator kicked in the voltage stayed around 12.5 to 13.5v

I had load tested my batteries with my handheld one by one not connected to each other and not run for the day and that was during summer and everything was good, but with the temp dropping low and more time with glow plugs and so I don't screw the FICM I want to change the batteries to confirm and if later a alternator is bad then it will get changed, worse case would be the FICM sent to Ed.[/quot

So you cycled through 3 full glow plug cycles before starting the truck? That cant be good for the batteries, just on one cycle it drags my batteries down in the 11's. I think plugging in the block heater and starting after the glow plug pigtail lights go out should be more than enough.
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:46 AM
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I just put in 2 new batteries. Everstart Maxx from Wal-Mart. The first thing I noticed is how bright the inside lights are now. Big difference. We will see how long they last. They replaced 2 Motorcraft 750cc amp batteries with a date code of 2008. So 4 years is the norm for batteries on these trucks?


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  #7  
Old 11-09-2012, 10:55 AM
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I splurged on Sears Platinums when they were on-sale last month with
an additional $40 on-line coupon (ended up at $174 each).
Engine cranks a LOT faster and my voltage stays nice during
engine warm up.

They have 4 year free replacement, 100 month pro-rated replacement.
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:08 AM
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No need to cycle the glow plugs more than once for anything above -10 degrees.

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Old 11-09-2012, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod View Post
Everybody's got their opinion I guess but I've had good luck with the AZ batteries. I have a pair of Duralast gold tops in now and expect good service from them. (Hope I didn't just jinx it )

Same ones I have^^^


I will add that I had a Alternator go out little over a Year ago but caught it before things went to bad

Since then I have had a DC Power 190amp Alternator keeping them charged now

Wish we could get the same batterys that the Trucks rolled out the assembly plant with

I got 6 years out the OEM Batterys I dont think the Replacement OEM Batterys are the same IDK
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:37 AM
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I'm running napa's brand. 110 per battery with 6 year warranty.
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  #11  
Old 11-09-2012, 12:34 PM
JonArmy JonArmy is offline
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Well I finally just went to AutoZone and got the 850cc Duralast. Didn't take me long, but keeping on my battery voltage and FICM with my edge and battery never drops below 13.5 and if it does it's only for around 10 seconds. The FICM stays at 48.0 it's only dropped to 47.5, before battery change it was dropping to around 46.5. Well I'll find out in the morning how well she runs. I might still change the alternator soon probably to the DC generator system. With the FICM looking good I'll still keep a eye on it, I might splurge and get the Bullet Proof Diesel FICM and keep at 48 v since I've heard it has better heat displacement and that's another thing that can kill the FICM.

Thanks for all the suggestions
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:48 PM
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The alternator is actually on as soon as the engine starts, which is why in your case the voltage got up to 12 as soon as the engine started - the batteries sure weren't going to jump up just because the engine was running when the glow plugs were still on. It is clear that new batteries are needed, with that low initial voltage reading, so you are doing the right thing there. Cycling the glow plugs several times is not only a bad thing to do for your batteries, it doesn't do anything to help a start - remember that the glow plugs stay on for several minutes anyway, after the light goes out, and as soon as the glow plug is hot enough to fire the cylinder, it doesn't need more time. Keeping the glow plugs lit for a long time is not a starting aid, it's to reduce emissions while the engine is being over-fueled while it's still cold. My advice is don't do that any more, your batteries, FICM and injectors will all thank you with longer and better service.

Brian
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Old 11-09-2012, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang_309 View Post
When the alternator kicked in the voltage stayed around 12.5 to 13.5v
Sounds like your alternator is bad. Your high reading is below the correct low voltage output for an alternator. Should be 13.8 to 14.2. Though it's possible your low batteries are so shot the alternator isn't performing properly.
But don't wait to test your alternator once you get new batteries, otherwise you'll kill your new batteries too.
Here's a good guide to testing your alternator:
http://www.prestolite.com/literature...leshooting.pdf
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Old 11-09-2012, 03:37 PM
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....and ALWAYS replace your batteries in PAIRS!
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rovernut View Post
Sounds like your alternator is bad. Your high reading is below the correct low voltage output for an alternator. Should be 13.8 to 14.2. Though it's possible your low batteries are so shot the alternator isn't performing properly.
But don't wait to test your alternator once you get new batteries, otherwise you'll kill your new batteries too.
Here's a good guide to testing your alternator:
http://www.prestolite.com/literature...leshooting.pdf
Keep in mind some are taking readings at the battery and others are taking it with a reader/scanner at the OBD port.

Expect about .2-.4 volts LOWER at the port versus the battery.

I agree charging voltage should be 13.8-14.6 volts at the batteries.

In most cases, at operating temps I see 13.6-14.1 volts at the port.

Josh
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:15 PM
 
 
 
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