Need Help With Reman 351W
#33
#34
If the crank cannot be turned by hand using a breaker-bar and socket on the front damper bolt, there is something dragging or binding somewhere.
BTW, the "rpm sensor" is a Hall-effect transducer built into the distributor, which generates an electrical pulse for the computer every 1/8 turn of the CAMSHAFT, using a toothed drum having one space (#1 cyl.) wider than the others.
The pulses generated thusly tell the computer everything it needs to know to fire the plugs, and turn on (and off!) the fuel injectors, as well as engine speed itself.
Later, "distributerless" designs use a "camshaft position transducer" (or, sensor), to do the same work. Generally, they employ a separate sensor, often mounted adjacent to a toothed wheel in front of the crankshaft damper, to tell #1 piston location, as well as engine speed.
BTW, early Ford EEC-IV systems used a "Thin Film Integrated Circuit" (TFI Module), mounted directly on the distributor. By the mid-90s, the TFI had been moved to a remote mount on a heat sink fastened to the firewall, or the fenderwell, due to frequent failures of the TFI due to HEAT. Parts stores kept tons of them on their shelves (TFI Modules)!
impish
BTW, the "rpm sensor" is a Hall-effect transducer built into the distributor, which generates an electrical pulse for the computer every 1/8 turn of the CAMSHAFT, using a toothed drum having one space (#1 cyl.) wider than the others.
The pulses generated thusly tell the computer everything it needs to know to fire the plugs, and turn on (and off!) the fuel injectors, as well as engine speed itself.
Later, "distributerless" designs use a "camshaft position transducer" (or, sensor), to do the same work. Generally, they employ a separate sensor, often mounted adjacent to a toothed wheel in front of the crankshaft damper, to tell #1 piston location, as well as engine speed.
BTW, early Ford EEC-IV systems used a "Thin Film Integrated Circuit" (TFI Module), mounted directly on the distributor. By the mid-90s, the TFI had been moved to a remote mount on a heat sink fastened to the firewall, or the fenderwell, due to frequent failures of the TFI due to HEAT. Parts stores kept tons of them on their shelves (TFI Modules)!
impish
#35
Pulled everything off externally (spark plugs, serp belt, unbolted tranny) and still too tight to turn over. I'm living in ND currently and am going home to Michigan for the winter (working at a farm in ND) and my dad will be coming out and towing my truck back (gotta love caring, concerned fathers, I sure do) and he has a couple friends that work in the shop at his county building that are going to help me try and get this motor running. I just don't have any more time to tear it apart again. Thanks for all the suggestions and helpful hints and suggestions everyone. If I'm not on again before thanksgiving, hope y'all have a hearty one.
#38
Well, an update. DO NOT BUY POWERTORQUE REMANS!!! Did an awful lot of research on powertorque and all I have found is many customers disappointed with the quality of their products. I have found that the motor is broken by something internal. I called powertorque warrenties claim center and was greated by one person, who directed me to another person, who in turn directed me to another person, who in turn finally got me to a technician. The tech I talked to doesn't likely know the difference beween a wrench from a screwdriver, and told me to do things that I have already tried 4 different times, but still wanted me to do them. To humor him, I did, and the same result, motor didn't crank worth crap. So I told him that I did what he told me to do, and he replies "Well, from what you told me what the motor was doing, I could've told you that it wouldn't have worked..." SO FRUSTERATING!!! But, anyways, they will warrenty my motor and are sending me another one. If I could, I'd get my money back and buy a JASPER motor instead...buttttt, I'm stuck with this one.
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