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Old 11-01-2012, 05:57 PM
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Pilgrim812
Leaking fuel line. (Complete-ish. Broken A/C Compressor Bolts)

So, the other day, a fuel line popped on my truck. It was leaking so much fuel, I consumed about 7/8 of a tank going from downtown Evansville to my house. That's only a few miles. Probably ten miles or so, but who's keeping track? Anyway, if you were to look under the truck while it was running, it looked like there was a little gremlin with a five gallon bucket of diesel fuel completely upending it over the engine.

After I discovered the leak, I, like an idiot, attempted to drive home like that (which is how I can provide that consumption rate that I mentioned earlier.). In the process, I got fuel on the clutch. I know this because I could feel the difference and it slipped pretty badly at one point.

So, I got looking at the fuel line that blew, and it's this one, which I already have disconnected in the picture:
Click the image to open in full size.

You can see where it used to hook up on the FPR there. Now, for those of you who don't know, the other end of that line hooks up to the engine sort of behind the part that the A/C compressor mounts to. It's really close to the oil rail. So, it's damn near impossible to get to. I imagine that it would be theoretically possible to somehow get a wrench with a 90 degree bend at the head down in there, but I don't know if I would be able to successfully get the replacement line threaded in there properly with an absolutely insufficient amount of space to get a hand in there.

So, this is what I'm thinking - I think now may be a good time to go ahead and remove my HPOP, FPR, Fuel Bowl, and possibly fuel pump and replace or reseal everything, especially all braided steel or rubber lines. You guys think that's a good idea, or do you think I should struggle to get that end off and on without removing much, if anything, else? I'm not very experienced in the mechanical department so I figured I would get alternate opinions on the best way to invest my time in fixing this thing. Keep in mind that it has around 225k miles on it and I'm betting that most, if not all, of the lines in the engine bay are factory.
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1996 F-250 XLT 4x4, "Heavy Metal", 7.3L Powerstroke, ZF S5-42 transmission with Valair clutch and flywheel, Supercab, 8' bed, Riffraff 6637, HPX, Dieselsite 203 degree thermostat, 3" Downpipe to 4" straight pipe exhaust.
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Old 11-01-2012, 06:46 PM
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That line is one of the return fuel lines coming from the heads and into the FPR.

That is the EXACT same line that blew on my truck and caused my throwout bearing and pilot bearing to go out b/c the fuel washed all the grease out of them. Mine dumped about 3/4 of a tank while I was stuck in traffic during rush hour.

So, yeah... Your probably going to be pulling the trans and at least changing the pilot and throwout bearings. probably not a bad idea to swap the clutch while your in there, but I drove mine like that for a month or so.

Personally, I'd change both of those return lines and whatever other fuel lines in the valley that are original. You can bet that your getting into the mileage and age where those lines are going to start leaking at some point. It's not a terrible idea to reseal everything on the fuel bowl too, but if you ever plan on e-fuel, remember your dumping more money into the stock fuel system that you will throw away later if you switch to electric.
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:15 PM
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What's the blue wire going to the ICP for?
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:18 PM
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Did the fitting on the return line back off, or did it actually blow off and strip the threads? If the threads are damaged, there would be no sense in trying to put it back on the way it is.
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:20 PM
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Pilgrim812
No, I removed that line. It was leaking through rubber.
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1996 F-250 XLT 4x4, "Heavy Metal", 7.3L Powerstroke, ZF S5-42 transmission with Valair clutch and flywheel, Supercab, 8' bed, Riffraff 6637, HPX, Dieselsite 203 degree thermostat, 3" Downpipe to 4" straight pipe exhaust.
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hussler View Post
What's the blue wire going to the ICP for?
Hell if I know. If that's not correct, it's the PO's doing. I haven't done anything with the wires for the engine or sensors that run the engine. It was a work truck owned by two or three companies before I bought it, so who knows what sort of "presidential solutions" were employed to keep the truck running.
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1996 F-250 XLT 4x4, "Heavy Metal", 7.3L Powerstroke, ZF S5-42 transmission with Valair clutch and flywheel, Supercab, 8' bed, Riffraff 6637, HPX, Dieselsite 203 degree thermostat, 3" Downpipe to 4" straight pipe exhaust.
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:24 PM
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Ahh, gotcha
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'95 F350 CCLB 4x4 dually,ZF 5spd,4.10,Rosewood Stage 2s,T500,S366,IC,Tony Wildman tunes,e-fuel,6637,CCV mod,3.5" DP,Diamond Eye 5" exhaust,Valair clutch,IH water pump,Scangauge,GlowShift gauges
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:28 PM
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Im thinking that you will have to pull the ac bracket to get the other end.and if one blew i would replace both.and the other rubber lines and the seals on the hard lines in the back at the heads.them leak real good too.i replaced all but the lines you are having problems with.i think i may think about them myself..
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckHammer View Post
Hell if I know. If that's not correct, it's the PO's doing. I haven't done anything with the wires for the engine or sensors that run the engine. It was a work truck owned by two or three companies before I bought it, so who knows what sort of "presidential solutions" were employed to keep the truck running.
That blue wire is not supposed to be there. Is it actually going to the ICP sensor???
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:33 PM
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Okay, so if I pull the A/C bracket, will I be able to get to both ends of the other line? If not, what all will I have to remove to get to that one?

Also, for those of you who don't know, I do have alternate wheels and having this truck on the road is not a time-sensitive issue.
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1996 F-250 XLT 4x4, "Heavy Metal", 7.3L Powerstroke, ZF S5-42 transmission with Valair clutch and flywheel, Supercab, 8' bed, Riffraff 6637, HPX, Dieselsite 203 degree thermostat, 3" Downpipe to 4" straight pipe exhaust.
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch View Post
That blue wire is not supposed to be there. Is it actually going to the ICP sensor???
I've got no clue, buddy. I'll investigate next time I'm looking under the hood. I have a feeling that there's a bunch of stuff under the hood that I should probably take the time and properly un**** while I'm at it.
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1996 F-250 XLT 4x4, "Heavy Metal", 7.3L Powerstroke, ZF S5-42 transmission with Valair clutch and flywheel, Supercab, 8' bed, Riffraff 6637, HPX, Dieselsite 203 degree thermostat, 3" Downpipe to 4" straight pipe exhaust.
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:42 PM
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You need to run by my house and i will give you some pointers! ANYyTIME!
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckHammer View Post
I've got no clue, buddy. I'll investigate next time I'm looking under the hood. I have a feeling that there's a bunch of stuff under the hood that I should probably take the time and properly un**** while I'm at it.
Since you have other transortation, maybe this would be a good time to do what you are thinking about doing as far as replacing the stuff that needs replaced. Might as well get as much of it taken care of as you can while you're in there.
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'95 F350 CCLB 4x4 dually,ZF 5spd,4.10,Rosewood Stage 2s,T500,S366,IC,Tony Wildman tunes,e-fuel,6637,CCV mod,3.5" DP,Diamond Eye 5" exhaust,Valair clutch,IH water pump,Scangauge,GlowShift gauges
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:59 PM
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I had that happen when I was 4 hours away from home. It was due to single clamping the hose I put on my banjo adapter with e-fuel. I was a nervous wreck when I discovered it pulling into a fast good parking lot. Double clamped it and it was golden, but I was nervous the entire ride home.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:56 PM
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Joseph you can take the two (IIRC) upper bolts off the AC bracket and just loosen the the bottom bolt. Then the bracket can swing away to get access to the fuel line fitting. You may or may not have to pull the vacuum pump. No big deal either way.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:56 PM
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