morning every one,

i'm looking at a 1995 f250 cc lb 2x4 auto with the 7.3. 245xxx miles it looks stock.

i'm worried about the 2x4 in winter, my last truck was a 2 by 2000 f150 with a 4.6 and with out 400 lbs of sand i could not keep it in a straight line (i was also 18 years old now i'm 25)

then my 05 mustang gt 5 speed is amazing in the snow, i figure since i can depower the drive wheels easily, i just correct before it comes around on me

i'm planning on using this new crew cab for daily driver 25 mi each way mixed roads, working it on side jobs, light scraping, and towing a pontoon with camping gear in the bed.

is there anything special to look for on a previous tow rig? i've been told newer diesels will crack the manifold or something crazy if they are used as trucks. and as such i've always been scared when i see a 5th wheel hook up. is this just paranoia with the obs trucks? i've read to check the bolts at the end of the exhaust manifold, looking for hi heat damage.

sorry for the long post
summary, how is 2x4 diesel in snow? (only on pavement) and special considerations with a previous tow rig?

thanks

 

Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel

Turbo:
You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.

Airbox:
Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.

Tranny:
If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.

Rear Gear Ratio:
4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg�s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.

Coolant:
Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).

Front end:
Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)

Oil:
The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.

Aftermarket stuff:
Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.

Glow Plugs/Relay:
Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...&f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.

Injector o-rings:
The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar � it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.

Leaks and Drips:
You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.

VIN number:
If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.

 

so i have missed out on some nice trucks to my paranoia?

and i assume slow and steady this thing will slice through the snow and slush?

 

The 2wd trucks are better in the snow in 2wd than 4wd trucks in 2wd.

Does that make sense?

My 91 would go though anything and was 2wd.

I got a 95 f150 4wd and got stuck everywhere unless it was in 4wd.

 

I don't really understand that one..... I usually lock my hubs in and rarely use it in the snow.. Just when i get into higher traffic areas or accually find stuff that does get me "stuck" A friend had a 96 powerstroke 2wd, couldn't hardly drive on the flat with a dusting of snow....

 

sounds like its up to the driver, i'm just outside of chicago, il in Joliet. i'm just worried about the auto since i am no longer used to it. been driving the '05 mustang gt 5 speed every day for 5 years.

Do they keep transmitting power when you let off?

 

also i think knowing you have 4x4 your willing to take more chances while knowing your only turning 2 you will want to keep them on a solid footing

 

21411, welcome aboard! These trucks have no issues with towing. One thing you do want to be aware of is that the auto in these trucks is a weakness and they not at all cheap to rebuild. To get one built right so it will handle serious abuse, you're looking in the range of $4k. That's a lot of coin! That being said, there are a lot of these trucks out there that tow a LOT of weight around and they're doing just fine. Add an auxiliary transmission cooler to it and it will help you quite a bit to extend teh life of that E4OD. The engines aren't anything to worry about while towing. They take a licking and keep on ticking!

As far as the 4x2 in the snow goes, I drive mine daily all winter long and it rarely sees 4x4. Put some weight in the back and just take your time. These engines have a lot of torque so managing the go pedal is essential if the roads are slick, but it is very doable. The best thing you can do is to get some ugly snow tires on the back. The wide good looking tires that most people like to run on these things are not well suited to driving in snow and slush. As far as that stuff goes, you're better off with tall and skinny than a wide profile on the tire. I think you'll be just fine with that truck.

 

Joliet?! Nice. Im up north of Rockford a tad! lol

I hardly use my 4x4. If its like a blizzard out and work/school is actually shut down. Ill drop it into 4wd just for good measure, but I have yet to get stuck without me making the decision to 'go for it' lol

I also liked 4x4 when I was pulling out a big rig from the ditch. My rears were off the road in the grass (snow) and my fronts were on the pavement. It wasnt like some crazy deep ditch, but the big rig was spinning and wasnt able to get out without me!

 

awitte, i have driven in all the snow storms, save for one 2 years ago, the snow was up to my spoiler. i called the boss and said if the building is not closed i'm calling in sick. being in the maintenance field when every one else has issues i can't afford to. i'm in an office building so lucky for me i just have to get there, but i HAVE to get there.

your "go for it" sounds like my mustang next to a new camaro. usually ends poorly.

diy - i'm thinking if i can get the truck, ill start collecting parts for a manual swap. i'm not a big fan on autos to begin with but it will make the purchase easier on my wife. her left foot is just to hold her upright between steps. (love you honey) which brings up a new question are all 7.3 the same bell housing, can i get a zf6 from a 98 - 03 7.3?

 

1995 Ford F-350 Super Duty - Used Truck Joliet IL | Auto Concepts

here is the link in case it helps

 

The auto to manual swap is a pretty straight forward process and being as your truck is a 2wd it should be a little easier for you to find the parts. The bell housings are all the same, in fact you should be able to use the ZF5 from an IDI truck as well. The ZF6 swap is a bit more involved since there are some changes that have to be made to the firewall and trans tunnel to make it fit. The 4x4 and 4x2 transmissions have different tail housings, so make sure you get the one for your application. The F-Super Duty (pre-97 with 10 lug wheels) uses a tailshaft mounted emergency brake, so that is essentially a 4x4 transmission. Get one from a 4x2 F-250 or F-350 and you're all set. It is a good idea to plan to replace the dual mass flywheel with a single mass unit while you're doing the swap as well. The dual mass is a time bomb of sorts...

 

That's a good looking truck. Not a big fan of the running boards, but the truck looks clean!

 

i'm glad it is a straight forward deal. i figure i'm not in the mountains trying to climb muddy hills so ill probably stick with 2x4. that research and questions will follow i'm sure.

i like the more gears of the 6 and everything ive read is 6 is for work and 5 is better for play, still able to work no doubt. but i'm looking for a gentle commuter work horse. i've got a 64 half ton to play with, that will be 4x4 4 speed.

 

It does look clean, but it also says Texas truck. People say Texas is the worst state for title washing. Beware. it could be a salvaged truck.

I personally have not had any issues with that since I get trucks from Colorado.

The constant sun and heat beat up the paint job pretty good... and the dust cant be the best either. lol Not trying to deter...just being bored at work.