Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Changing gearing to big boys F/R anyone?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 10-31-2012, 02:09 PM
firerescue9's Avatar
firerescue9
firerescue9 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Windsor
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Exclamation Changing gearing to big boys F/R anyone?

Im trying to research new gear sets for my 89 F150. Getting 37s, and so i need something beefier then my stockers.

Im sort of confused with what to get however. i know that i want 4.56's but for the front TTB its hard to find. however i found one and i just wanted to verify that this is the correct one for installation.

G2 Axle and Gear Part 2-2033-456R - Dana 44 Reverse 4.56 Ring And Pinion Set By G2

Reverse Dana 44 right?


My SECOND question is what diffs should i use for front and rear? I will be going mudding and offroading lets say once a week..Whats the best?

Thanks!
 
  #2  
Old 10-31-2012, 02:16 PM
Puddy's Avatar
Puddy
Puddy is offline
FTE Chapter Leader
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 1,931
Received 15 Likes on 12 Posts
Reverse for front is correct standard rotation fer rear.
 
  #3  
Old 11-01-2012, 03:00 AM
ReadOrDie_WoW's Avatar
ReadOrDie_WoW
ReadOrDie_WoW is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Driftwood Pa & Duncan OK
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
For the lockers, I'd say what is stock (if its a daily driver). Just make sure your fluids are right and your LSD pads are working as intended (they make a "friction modifier" if your pads are worn; from any auto-parts store).

Welding the spider gears would give you solid axles also, but it really depends on how much you drive the truck and on what sort of terrain (daily). Basically though, more information is needed :P
 
  #4  
Old 11-01-2012, 03:43 AM
GNR22's Avatar
GNR22
GNR22 is offline
Fabri-cobbler
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,163
Received 515 Likes on 340 Posts
If you are planning to wheel this truck, it's not going to last long... The Dana 44 TTB isn't strong enough to support more than 33" tall tires offroad, whereas the Dana 50 TTB will support 35" well, and the Dana 60 is usually good up to 40" tires.
You need to look into a SAS (Straight Axle Swap) to a Dana 60 or Dana 44 Straight axle to run tires that big. You're going to be breaking parts left and right with the TTB. The SAS isn't hard to do, but takes some time to do as well as access to tools.
Don't weld the spider gears. You'll burn the tires up too much doing that. The factory L/S is pretty good. Otherwise an air locker that you can turn on and off would be the best if you're going to use it on pavement too.
4.56 would be an alright gear ratio, a little lower (numerically higher) might do you some good for power too. But I wouldn't worry about gear ratio until you have appropriate running gear under the truck.
Just speaking from experience. I've had a lot of variations throughout my 89 F250 since I bought it, and the TTB chewed up the insides of my 35" tires because it was laying the front end out. I swapped for a Dana 44HD and like it a lot better. You can also lift the truck at the same time as doing a SAS, as I saw that you want to lift the truck a little more in a different post.
 
  #5  
Old 11-01-2012, 06:10 AM
firerescue9's Avatar
firerescue9
firerescue9 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Windsor
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by GNR22
If you are planning to wheel this truck, it's not going to last long... The Dana 44 TTB isn't strong enough to support more than 33" tall tires offroad, whereas the Dana 50 TTB will support 35" well, and the Dana 60 is usually good up to 40" tires.
You need to look into a SAS (Straight Axle Swap) to a Dana 60 or Dana 44 Straight axle to run tires that big. You're going to be breaking parts left and right with the TTB. The SAS isn't hard to do, but takes some time to do as well as access to tools.
Don't weld the spider gears. You'll burn the tires up too much doing that. The factory L/S is pretty good. Otherwise an air locker that you can turn on and off would be the best if you're going to use it on pavement too.
4.56 would be an alright gear ratio, a little lower (numerically higher) might do you some good for power too. But I wouldn't worry about gear ratio until you have appropriate running gear under the truck.
Just speaking from experience. I've had a lot of variations throughout my 89 F250 since I bought it, and the TTB chewed up the insides of my 35" tires because it was laying the front end out. I swapped for a Dana 44HD and like it a lot better. You can also lift the truck at the same time as doing a SAS, as I saw that you want to lift the truck a little more in a different post.
Wow thats great info!
i didnt konw about the 33' max on the ttb. So can i use only select Dana 44? or can i use say a dodge 1500 dana 44? And what about the rear end? is the ford 8.8 a good rear or should that be swapped for another SAS?

Last question, if i do a SAS to say a D44 in the front, does that change my suspension setup? Would i need a different style lift that doesnt use dual shocks and a coil like i have now? or does it not change at all?

I will be driving it daily driver to work and school everyday. but id like to have fun on the weekends as well. Mud and trails mostly. Sounds like the air locker would be best suited for my needs.
 
  #6  
Old 11-01-2012, 09:21 AM
Puddy's Avatar
Puddy
Puddy is offline
FTE Chapter Leader
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 1,931
Received 15 Likes on 12 Posts
Any solid axle swap would require a whole suspension swap . Think f-350 front suspension.
 
  #7  
Old 11-02-2012, 01:34 AM
GNR22's Avatar
GNR22
GNR22 is offline
Fabri-cobbler
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,163
Received 515 Likes on 340 Posts
I'm not sure on the half ton specific stuff because my truck is a 3/4 ton. But I believe the best suited candidates for axles are 78 and 79 4x4 F150s and Broncos. You'd be best off finding one that you can take whole, like a parts truck, and getting what you need off of them if you want to keep the 5 bolt front end and stuff. The Straight axle D44 is a little tougher than the TTB. I've had 38s on my truck and didn't have an issue. It wasn't for an extended period though.
However, if you want to go with a D60 front end, find a 4x4 F350 from the late 80s, and very early 90s. They had king pins instead of balljoints and are tougher because of it. If you go that route, you can swap over the leaf spring suspension from the F350 and the the front and rear axle, and it's pretty much a bolt in swap. Those trucks will use a Sterling 10.25 rear end which is pretty much bullet proof and will bolt right up I believe.
As for the lift, I'm pretty sure that if you use 4" lift coil springs for a 78 or 79 half ton or bronco, it actually equates to a 6" lift. I'm not positive on those numbers, but I know the SAS makes the truck taller anyway. The dual shock thing, I'm not sure about though.
If you plan on using the truck on the road for a DD, the air locker or limited slip would be best.
 
  #8  
Old 11-02-2012, 01:56 AM
brandharro's Avatar
brandharro
brandharro is offline
New User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You can also lift the truck at the same time as doing a SAS
 
  #9  
Old 11-02-2012, 02:43 AM
firerescue9's Avatar
firerescue9
firerescue9 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Windsor
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I did my reasearch (kinda) and im going to pick up a D60 Rear from a '77? i think. Now i just gota look for a front SA. I dont know what else i need for the rear, so i have to research that a little more. I believe i will take your advice on finding a late 80/early 90 f350 for a D60 Front.

Is that a good combo tho? D60 F/R? I couldnt find a Sterling and i found a D60 Rear 30 mins from my house for only 200 bucks. Well see!

GNR22- I appreciate your help so much. You have pretty much summarized everything i search for, so i am forever grateful. Your a great asset to the build so more info the merrier!
 
  #10  
Old 11-02-2012, 06:30 AM
garthneddy's Avatar
garthneddy
garthneddy is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Franklin, IN
Posts: 1,271
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
I have to disagree with GNR22. The Dana 44 TTB is just as strong as its solid axle counterpart. The weak points are the exact same between the D44 TTB and the D44 solid axles. In fact, for a DD I would prefer to retain the TTB as it will provide a much better ride on the road and at speed in the dirt.

If you want to run 37s reliably, find yourself a Dana 60. Any 1/2 ton axle will not hold up well to tires that large, whether its a solid or independent axle. 35s would be a safe bet if your not a throttle jockey and use your brain when you take her wheeling.
 
  #11  
Old 11-02-2012, 03:34 PM
GNR22's Avatar
GNR22
GNR22 is offline
Fabri-cobbler
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,163
Received 515 Likes on 340 Posts
The D60 rear will work, but you will have to move the spring perches on the axle. It's an all around easier swap to find a Sterling, and they usually are about the same price as a D60 rear because they are so common.
I respect your opinion garthneddy. I've found that I like the ride with the solid axle on my truck better than the I liked the D50 TTB. The ride seems much smoother and less "lungey" when i go over bumps and dips, and it doesn't wear the insides of tires.
But the D60 is always the better choice with larger tires.
 
  #12  
Old 11-02-2012, 08:55 PM
garthneddy's Avatar
garthneddy
garthneddy is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Franklin, IN
Posts: 1,271
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
Yor right about the leaf spring TTBs having poor ride quality, but he has the coil spring setup. If it was me, I would be spending some coin on a nice mid-travel setup and running 35s. Good luck with whatever way you decide to go with this and keep us posted.
 
  #13  
Old 11-03-2012, 07:34 AM
bashby's Avatar
bashby
bashby is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charles Town, W bygod Va
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Those dana 60's are the ones that you need to remove the axles to remove the drums. PITA. Sterling 10.25 drums slip off with axles intact.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
WarriorWithin
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
11
07-19-2011 01:58 PM
OleBlue78F250
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
3
02-15-2007 09:32 AM
77'CrewCabOneTon4X4
Offroad & 4x4
8
07-15-2005 09:39 PM
showtimes ford
Aftermarket Products
1
03-06-2004 10:52 PM
Offroad & 4x4
25
01-23-2003 02:04 AM



Quick Reply: Changing gearing to big boys F/R anyone?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:00 AM.