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Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator 1991-1994, 1995-2001, 2002-2005, 2006-2010 Ford Explorer

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Old 10-27-2012, 10:56 AM
Willy Ray White Willy Ray White is offline
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2000 Mountaineer Starting/Battery Issue

Hey guys. This is my first post on this forum. I have been searching but haven't found what I'm looking for. My problem is with a 2000 Mountaineer V8. Once a year I have to replace the battery after the first cold snap due to low cranking amps. I can simply hook up a battery charger and it will crank and fire. My second problem is most likely related. When I replace the battery it will kick off like a brand new car with no hesitation. After a few starts it takes 5-15 seconds for the engine to fire while the engine cranks normally, and that's how it operates all year. After having this problem again this year (I've owned it 4 years) I've realized the underlying problem is not the battery. Do any of you guys have any suggestions on where to start? All the connections are good, and it has a good ground. No lights or warnings, and when tested with a handheld scanner there are no error codes.
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Old 10-27-2012, 12:34 PM
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Start with an AC/DC amp clamp, check the draw for the starter..

Then check all main circuits for high resistance, no more than .5vdc drop on any leg.... Check the alternator for charge rate Amps, not just volts.... Philip
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Old 10-27-2012, 12:36 PM
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Start by measuring the voltage at the battery with the engine running. It should be very steady around 14.4 volts. If it is substantially higher or varying alot, you have a voltage regulator or alternator issue. Sounds like your system could be overcharging the battery causing it to fail prematurely.
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Old 10-27-2012, 01:18 PM
Willy Ray White Willy Ray White is offline
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Thanks for the responses, guys. I'll get with my father-in-law about checking the main circuits and the starter draw. He's an electrician and can help me with that. I checked the battery while running and it draws 14.67, occasionally jumping to 14.68. I put it on a deep cycle battery charger and charged the battery for about an hour, it's now fully charged and kicking off like new, for now. The battery is maintenance free, so there isn't an issue with the water. I'm gonna start running down the circuits between the battery, alternator, and ignition switch and see what I find. I read somewhere that the Air Idle Controller could have something to do with it. It may not be allowing the right mix for it to start correctly, but that doesn't sound right. If that was the problem it would have trouble firing regardless of the state of the battery.
Thanks again. You have given me some things to check and a direction to go.
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Old 10-28-2012, 11:04 AM
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Here is a better idea...go visit napa. They have a machine and can check cranking amps, battery draw all in one.

A complete test of the starting and charging circuits...for free. My bet is on a low amp output for the alternator.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:20 PM
Willy Ray White Willy Ray White is offline
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It's a fuel problem. After replacing the battery with a new one, still no start.
After a quick spray of Starting fluid and it fired right up. I replaced the fuel filter and it starts fine, for now. We'll see what happens in the morning.
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:45 PM
Willy Ray White Willy Ray White is offline
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I got up this morning and it fired up. When my wife got in it started, idled, then died. Wouldn't start again and the fuel pump wouldn't come on. An hour later it fired up again and again and is running fine. I noticed when I took the key out of the ignition it continued to ding. Without putting the key back in I grabbed the keyguard, twisted it back a bit, and it quit dinging. I'm wondering if maybe the ignition switch is bad. I was convinced the fuel pump was bad earlier, but now I'm leaning toward an electrical short.
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Old 10-29-2012, 04:44 PM
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The ignition lock cylinder is pretty easy to replace. At least it was on my 94. And the part was less than $20.
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Old 10-29-2012, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Willy Ray White View Post
I got up this morning and it fired up. When my wife got in it started, idled, then died. Wouldn't start again and the fuel pump wouldn't come on. An hour later it fired up again and again and is running fine. I noticed when I took the key out of the ignition it continued to ding. Without putting the key back in I grabbed the keyguard, twisted it back a bit, and it quit dinging. I'm wondering if maybe the ignition switch is bad. I was convinced the fuel pump was bad earlier, but now I'm leaning toward an electrical short.
Easy enough to do. I did it on our 92 Taurs. Just remove the steer wheel covers and it should be right there. Hardest part is the shift indicator cable. Just pay attention.
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:58 PM
Willy Ray White Willy Ray White is offline
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Thank you for your help guys. Yall are great. The story ends like this:
I replaced the fuel pump relay and it fired up like a new car. I drove it a half mile and the oil pressure gauge bottomed out, the lifters started rattling, but it never got hot (can't figure that one out). After getting it home I checked the oil with the dipstick and it was cool. I drained the oil, couldn't get the oil pan off, but I noticed the oil in the bottom of the pan was warm. Put new oil and filter in, still no pressure (surprise, surprise). I replaced the oil pressure sensor, the pressure came back, lifters got quiet, and it's running better than ever. I'm completely stumped. You guys have been great. Thank you.
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:51 AM
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Strange that a sensor would keep it from pumping oil.
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:02 PM
Willy Ray White Willy Ray White is offline
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Yes it is. That's what I don't understand. The only thing I can figure is that maybe the screen on the oil pump was clogged and changing the oil cleared it out. Aren't those oil pumps mechanical?
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:02 PM
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