Hi everyone, first post so hopefully i'm in the right spot. Usually a chevy or a dodge guy but couldn't pass up a deal on an 02 F250 with the 7.3L powerstroke. Got it from a friend of a friend but the history of the truck is unknown as it was purchased at auction. Truck has been driven with no transmission problems such as shifting, slipping, etc. Stock tranny pan was swapped due to leaks. New fluid (mercon v i believe but not sure) and filter were put in it. I changed the radiator (with the integrated trans cooler). Transmission wouldn't engage as I was trying to heat it up to check fluid level to replace what I lost in the cooler. Added the appropriate amount of mercon v and took it around the block. It was slipping a little so I kept it very slow just to have the truck moving. after about a half mile i was back in my driveway and all gears forward and reverse were engaging instantly and the truck would crawl without any throttle on the flat surface. Went back out again and by the time I got back it was slipping again. Would not move until tach was about 1500 rpms. truck has about 240,000, not sure about rebuilds or anything. the vehicle was in an accident and that's what prompted the tranny pan replacement as it was dented. when removed it was discovered that it had crushed the tranny filter. truck was not driven much in that condition. do not have a code scanner but am thinking about buying one so advice on a decent one that is pretty cheap would help. no check engine light on after the initial test of all 'idiot' lights nor is the od light blinking as I've heard happens with transmission problems. also not sure if related or not but the esof motor does make a sound when selecting 4hi and the light comes on but no sound or light for 4lo, not sure if that could be related or a separate problem. checked fuses in the panel by the hood release and all the connections on the shift position sensor as well as some other troubleshooting stuff. please help as I would like to tag this truck and start riding it around!!! thanks in advance!!!

 

most likely its the feed bolts. They are know to come loose and it causes you to loose forward and reverse gears, slipping, or low pressure shifting. Its a VERY simply job just drop the pan, remove the valve bodies and drop the separator plate gaskets and there are three black bolts with holes in them, they will either be all the way out or only finger tight. Torque them to 15 ft lbs and reinstall everything and you should be good to go. My dads 2000 diesel did this and i re torqued the feed bolts added new separator plate gaskets and cleaned the valve bodies and its been going strong for another 20k since i did this. My buddies 2002 diesel did this and i just torqued his bolts and his truck has been fine for the past year and he has a huge 120hp chip on his 7.3.

 

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...w/HPIM1879.jpg

 

thats the link to the 4R100 that shows the feed bolts and other important locations for the check *****, etc

 

Thanks for the info, I'll hopefully get to check that out today! what did you use to clean everything with? Did you use loctite or anything to keep them in place?

 

i used my air compressor to blow the threads clean, and then brake cleaner on the feed bolts themselves. I then used red loctite on the feed bolts and torqued them down. I let it sit for a good twenty minutes while i used brake cleaner to clean the valve bodies all out and then i used the compressor to dry it all out. I replaced the separator gaskets because after 120,000 miles the gaskets were SO brittle they snapped into hundreds of pieces when i pulled it down. i went to a local transmission shop nd paid 10 bucks for new gaskets, my dealer wanted Vin number, serial number off the trans and they had to order them for i think like 30 bucks!

 

and you have to torque all the valve bolts and the two 10mm nuts to 8 inchpounds, not foot pounds

 

Well I'm wrist deep in it right now and I can't seem to get the solenoid out. The harness is disconnected but I'm lost as to how to it out. Does it require a lot of tugging or prying since the gentle wiggling I am doing isn't doing anything. By harness I mean the actual pin connector...the other side is still in the Trans

 

update - got all the valve bodies out and the solenoid also. feed bolts were good and did not need any tightening. the solenoid pack itself was stuck and the plug came apart beyond repair so i will be replacing that. my new question is would that have anything to do with my original problem? its not how things usually work out for me but I would be very much relieved if all i did was break a broken part already that needed to be replaced lol

 

What year is that 4R100? Looks different than my 2001.

 

Sorry for the newbie question but I guess I just figured this was a symptom of my "little" 5.4L gasser mated to the "diesel" 4R100 trans. Anyways, truck needs to "flash" the torque converter up to 1500-1900rpms before the truck starts moving, but it'll hold a roll at idle and doesn't feel like its slipping while driving. That plus the shifts are aggonizingly slow. Are this indicators of loose feed bolts? Of larger problems?

Sorry to thread jack, but it seems to be at least vaguely on topic....

 

That sounds like how a 4R100 works.

 

OP did you fix your problem?

 

my 5.4 with 4r100 moves right off idle, i know the diesel trans havea different TQ converter and more clutches inside other than that they are the same. If your truck wont move till 1500 rpm that sounds like a stall converter was installed....

 

Do you mean a high stall converter? Every torque converter has a stall speed, even the factory torque converter.