I'm trying to remove the upper control arm on a 2004 F-150 2WD. I took the wheel off, and it looks like I can't get the bolts off that attach to the frame off without taking out the shock and "coil over"? Is this the case, or is there another way to do this? Thanks.

 

YUP, Your heading the right way. You need to release that tension with a floor jack and stands.

 

Do I jack up the lower control arm, I'm not too sure. When I pull that "assembly" of the coil and shock does it come out as one piece? I have watched a few vids online and thats what it looks like, but they were all on other vehicles not on a 2004 F-150 2wd. Thanks

 

Set the front on a stand, remove wheel and loosen upper ball joint nut, then loosen joint in its arm, jack up arm from the bottom and remove ball joint while using a rope to tie up rotor assembly from twisting and falling. If it falls it will damage parts. than you can loosen the lower and upper strut mounts while marking their position to put them back in properly. You have one large lower mounting and 3 nuts/studs at the very top. The assembly then will fall free. You will have the shock and the spring assembly as one piece. Do not remove the top center nut on the shaft, things will blow apart on you. ( spring loaded compression) You are now ready to remove the arm assembly. Do one side at a time if you are on the floor of the garage. With a small space you pull the truck over toward the other side leaving enough room to angle it over with the jack. This also gives you a decent work height whill being safely on the stand. There is incredible weight to the front if you try to do both sides at the same time on the floor. Lots of room no problem sitting it on 2 stands, just lower work height. I would perfer a level truck on a hoist, but not a need to.

Sorry for the typo upper not lower. The tie rod end would be the lowest joint to remove. An sway bar link. Make sure to mark your strut so as to go back in exactly the same or damage can occur.

 

Great description, Thanks! I needed someone to "dumb-it down" a little for me. I have never messed with suspension before, so I know very little about it. Another Question, do I need to take off the whole steering knuckle/wheel spindle assembly if I'm not changing the lower ball joints? I am going to change the outer tie rod end though. I had a friend change them about 5 months ago, so I'm thinking they are still good.

 

No you don't have to remove the whole steering knuckle/wheel spindle assembly. Just the top of the spindle, Like Papa said tie up the spindle/hub assembly so it doesn't drop, along with tying it up you can also support it from below if you have another jack or even a block of wood.

 

Strut/shock assembly, outer tie rod end, upper control arm, all replaced. Now I'm squeak free!! Thanks for all your help!

There is still a "knocking" or "jarring" sound when I go over bumps in the road. I have read a little bit on it, and some people say that the sway bar bushings and sway bar links can cause a sound like that. Have any of you ever heard of sorts? They both seem to be in descent shape, not sure how to check them to tell, tho. Any ideas?

 

You put the springs back on the shocks at the exact same location and the assembly back in exactly the same as it came out? Old shocks or new shocks?

 

I bought new strut assemblies. Coil/shock. I made sure everything was tight, I dont think it was anything I installed.

 

Im gonna try to check the lower ball joints i had put in about six months ago. How often do the lower control arm bushings go bad?