Texasguy, what made you decide on the edelbrock truck intake? I heard that it isn't a whole lot better than the stock intake.

Conanski, thanks for the great feedback as usual, great information. Where have you found the intake for $350? The lowest I've found is $417 on ebay.

I am trying to convince myself to go ahead and put the intake on it so I have a few questions concerning other modifications that are required.

1. Will the thermostat housing be any different?

2. Will I have to do anything with the throttle cable?

3. Is there intake tubing made for this or will I have to fabricate my own?

4. Can the upper intake be flipped around so the throttle body points towards the air filter housing, because the pictures have it pointing opposite from stock?

5. What throttlebody should I use?

6. What will I have to do concerning EGR setup, and IAC valve?

7.Will this intake set up any higher that stock so as to clear taller valve covers?

Sorry for all the questions I just want to make sure I know what I am getting into and how big my budget will have to be.

 

I bought a Typhoon from BlueOval Industries a few years ago but I guess there has been some inflation since then.


No.

Yes, you'll be using a Mustang TB so you'll need a Mustang, Lightning, or Explorer cable.

This is a single TB setup but that is by far the more common arrangement so I don't see there being any problem coming up with some tubing from aftermarket sources or the junkyard.

Yes.

70mm fits without mods.

EGR is internally routed through the Performer and Typhoon so just employ a car style EGR spacer and valve to retain full functionality.. assuming the heads you use have EGR passages. If they don't then no big deal.. on pre '96 EFI systems the computer doesn't actually measure EGR gas flow so the check engine light will stay off as long as all the parts are present and connected.
Provisions for the IAC are built into the throttlebody, and that goes for all stock and aftermarket versions.

You'll need an intake spacer to clear tall covers.. but 1.7 rockers fit under stock truck covers so tall versions aren't necessary.

 

I'm going with the Edelbrock truck intake partly because it doesn't require prepositioning things like the throttle body or EGR etc.

I'm also keeping my stock air box with the I6 tube.

When compared to the stock 5.8 intake, the Edelbrock intake has much larger runners. Its a noticeable difference. Its not quite the same when compared to the stock 5.0 intake since it has large runners than the stock 5.8 intake.

 

The Edelbrock Truck intake is a good upgrade for a 5.8 that will retain the stock powerband(0-4000), but it's a bottleneck on a high reving 5.8 or a stroker.

 

I too have a 95 with a 5.0 would like to do a similar swap. Keep us updated!

 

Are you currently running the Pro Products intake in your truck? Do you have any under hood pics of it?

 

Thanks once again Conanski for answering all my questions. I tried repping you but apparently I have to spread some around before repping you again.

Texasguy, that is very tempting not to have to redo all that stuff. I just wonder how much difference there is between the two intakes?

Hey Conanski, if you wouldn't mind whipping out your desktop dyno, could you run a sim for the Edelbrock truck intake, and one for the pro products typhoon?

Here's what I'm thinking for my build.

351w bored .030 over
Stock GT40 heads
Comp Cams 35-512-8 cam with 1.7 rr
I want to run about 9.5 compression ratio
Stock 19lb injectors
Probably flowtech longtube headers through true dual 2.25 in pipe and 16" glasspacks
And then of course the two different intakes

If there is anything I'm missing let me know. Thanks in advance for doing this!

Edit: If you wouldn't mind doing one with the stock intake too that would be great! That way we get a complete comparison between intakes.

 

Unfortunately the software version I have isn't designed to model variations in intakes so this won't be possible, you'll just have to trust that both aftermarket intakes will outperform the stocker and the Typhoon will make more HP because of it's shorter runners.

 

Oh, well that's to bad, thanks anyway. I know that both aftermarket ones are better and would just like to get an understanding of where they are better. If they don't make any difference till about 4000 rpm, then it won't really bother me, because I will hardly ever be over 4000 rpm. Plus I figure it will be easier to install an intake later on down the road then to put new heads on. Because right now I'm looking at close to $4000 for a complete rebuild the way I want it, so saving $700 on an intake (intake, throttlebody, intake tubing) right now fits my budget a little better.

 

I'm also doing this same combo (357-9.2:1-GT40P-Typhoon) but using a 5.0 HO cam with 1.7's. My problem is its going into a 95 5.0 SD truck. What would be the best way to redo the FI system? I was going to get a MAF harness and computer from a junkyard, But I'm not sure which ones would work. Does it need to come from a 5.8 truck or would a 5.0 system work? And what should I use for injectors, TB, and MAF. I have a set of 19# inj and a 65mm TB from an explorer and was hoping to use those but not sure if there large enough. BTW its a 5spd so no issues there. And once it is converted to MAF will it need a new chip or will it adjust itself? All these questions almost make me want to just throw a carb on it and be done!! Thanks for any input.

 

You could use a DunnRite MAF conversion harness and a Mustang computer/MAF meter.


That is another way to do it but you have to realize this is not a simple plug and play operation.. you don't just unplug the SD harness at the block connectors and plug in a MAF version, you also have to add the MAF specific wires from the block connectors back to the EEC because they don't exist in your truck, so you would need to cut the complete engine bay harness from a donor vehicle, remove the necessary portions, and insert those into the SD harness in your truck.

Either would do but a 5.8 version would have less trouble adjusting.. but they're rare.

For best performance you're gonna want to use the stock 19lb injectors and the meter that matches whatever computer you use, so a truck MAF meter with a truck computer or a Mustang meter with a Mustang computer. If the motor requires bigger injectors/MAF then ideally that's when you buy a tuner like the Moates Quarterhorse and reprogram it with the appropriate data for those larger parts.

 

me and my brother are soon going to be working on a 2wd 95 f150 rat rod. plan to swap in a 351 froma donor truck. after some rebuilding using pretty much all the info ive learned from conanski lol what am i looking at as far as dropping the rebult 351 into the 2wd 150? as far as rear gears, trans., and anything else you can think of

 

I like Cranes roller cams. Specifically the HR-216/325-2S-12 as a better than stock replacement and the 2031 if you have bigger heads, exhaust, and intake.

Both give more torque down low than the Comp cam reccomended. I believe that is better to get our heavy trucks moving.

http://www.cranecams.com/204-211.pdf

 

I present four roller cams ran on in DeskTop Dyno 2000. Same engine 351W, GT40 heads, small tube headers, same intake flow and SEFI fuel injection. Note that DD2000 is optimistic by about 13%, so 400ftlbs becomes 348. My preference is to get good torque down low which takes some horsepower away from the top end. This was Ford's idea with the stock roller cam, to haul and get these heavy rigs rolling and I think most folks rod around at 4,500- 5,000 RPM.
Ford F4TE:


Crane 2031:


Crane 325-2s-12:


Comps 35-312-8: