Dieselzen Send those sensor test to me anyway. They might help me narrow it down.


lxman How many 5.0 would it take to maximize torque on a 4R70W? 4-5 Hee-Hee

 

dieselzen,
I'm having a very similar problem on my 96 F-150 5.8L/E4OD, and would like to check my sensors as well. Can you send that instructions check-file to waynepc at bellsouth.net?? My truck occassionally falls out of gear, usually on long road-trips. It seems to fall into neutral and then surges back into gear. Very random occurrance; maybe does it once every other week or so. I have not been able to determine any specific conditions when it occurs..........so I'm stumped. Thanks in advance!!

Wayne

 

I adjusted the FIPL as best I can. The torx screw hole are NOT slotted on the sensor I have so I was only able to twist it a little bit forward. I'm getting 1.3 - 1.4 volts at idle and 3.7 or so WOT. My guage block may not be correct though. It's been driven about forty miles in wet weather since I adjusted it and it's doing fine so far. Only time will tell.
On another note. I read somewhere else in this forum that the MLPS can malfunction if it gets wet. As we've been having tons of rain over the last two months this could be part of the problem. What do you think?

 

Hi snakebit95 and welcome to FTE

Your truck doesn't have the same adjustment.....it's only on the older diesels.
I've seen a few with a symptom like you're describing that needed new TRS's (Transmission Range Sensor). It used to be called the Manual Lever Position sensor but Ford changed the name. It bolts onto the side of the transmission where the shift lever goes in.
And nothingbutford you're right about water getting into the TRS (MLP). I might be wrong but I think that Ford came up with a new improved connector a few years ago.

 

Thanks!! I just found another thread, where somebody described having my identical problem. The resolution was the same sensor you mentioned!! These message boards save me so much troubleshooting and money!! Thanks again!!

Hope you get yours sorted out nothingbutford!! Good Luck!!

 

snakebit95:
Could you give me the link to that thread? I'm too lazy and it's too late for me to search around for it.

 

Here you go:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hlight=%2Be4od

Hope this helps!! I will be purchasing a TRS tomorrow, and will report results as soon as I can install it. Hopefully it will not require any special tools

 

Snakebit,
I got a zip file named E4OD off to you a few minutes ago. Be patient as it downloads. My email prog. says it is 800 kbytes and asks me everytime I send it, why the heck I'm doing it .

Benjamin,
My left arm for a polaroid (no, just kidding, Lord). Wish I could take a picture of mine and scan it for you. Guess I'll have to describe mine better. That is just plain wierd that you have no "grooved bracket" as the FIPL is supposed to be an adjustable sensor so that line pressure in the tranny is right.
On mine, the FIPL sensor (grey plastic box-like object) is fastened to a metal plate by two screws. The metal plate is then fastened to the throttle linkage by two torx screws. The grooves are cut in the metal plate at each torx screw so that the FIPL can be adjusted by twisting the FIPL/metal plate along the grooved arc after loosening the torx screws.
Did you ever get the voltage on the ground wire down to .1 volts?

Snakebit and Benjamin,
I hope Racerguy is right about the MLPS/TRS being the problem. If you look at the mlps2.wri file included in the zip file, you'll find a tech. bulletin on what you need to do to update the MLPS and connector. You might want to test the MLPS via MLPS.wri, also included in the zip file. R.A.

 

Received the file this morning. Good info.......Thanks dieselzen!!

 

snakebit95: Thanks for the link!

dieselzen: I feel dumb. I went and looked and there it was in plain sight! The FIPL is attached to the metal plate with two torx screws. That's what I adjusted before. The metal plate is attached to the pump with two 3/8's bolts in slotted holes. I had fun tightening the back bolt. I kept turning and turning it and then I realized that it's stripped out! I hope the front bolt will hold it still. I have it adjusted to 1.3 - 1.4 volts at idle and with the throttle pushed all the way down (no guage block) I'm getting 5 volts. I'm not completely sure my guage is right. Hopefully this will work though. I checked the ground and I got 0.02 volts consistently. The funny thing is I didn't do anything to the ground cable. Thanks for your help!

 

Whoohoo!


Glad you found what I was talking about Benjamin.
My FIPL has two pairs of torx screws (FIPL to plate are small, plate to Fuel Pump are large). Apparently the FIPL has been manipulated quite a bit by a previous owner or mechanic to have different bolts at the adjustment area and with one of them being stripped. Guess you'll have to find a way to get the stripped one fastened properly so it doesn't move on ya via engine vibration. The voltages you're getting sound pretty good, especially the ground. Sorry I didn't describe the location better the first time.

Hopefully the FIPL adjustment or the testing of the MLPS and cleaning the connector contacts and block contacts will result in no more problem. Or Replacement of the MLPS and connector.
R.A.

 

dieselzen,
could you email those test to meas well they might help me locate the problem i an having.

just to let you know the problem I am having is with my e4od i can not move very far in drive from a standstill unless i turn od off then it drives fine when i get up around 40 mph i can turn od back on and will eventually kick in when rpms get up around 3500. i have had a check engine light come on and the code it showed had something to do with the tps maybe if i use your test and replace it it might work fine and save me $1800 like all the trany shops are telling me to rebuild.

email addres is Emtucker@pcnirvana.net

 

I have been fighting wit hthis dang e4od for years. Mine has the same symtoms. dieselzen, please send me the info for checking the sensors. I had the FIPL replaced recently, but it only helped temporarily. The irractic shifting happens when the engine gets heated. Could it be related to the Exhaust temperature, or would that be a more-permanent failure?
Les
mizell@swbell.net

 

If it's not too late, I would love to receive a copy of the transmission test procedures. agprint at earthlink.net

 

It's never too late.
I will continue to send this zip file to anyone who replies to this thread and gives their email address.
I am glad to help anyone save big bucks on a possible un-needed trans. rebuild. R.A.