Hey guys i have a 1990 f250 regular cab and i have some aftermarket speakers, sub, amp, and head unit. I am just wondering what i would need to install all of this and also what size the door speakers are. Thanks a ton, Lachlan

 

Funny you should ask, I am in the process of doing a stereo job on mine. I have an f150 which is still the same cab. I have the door panel off mine, and it measures right under 6 3/4". Walmart and a bunch of other places online sell speakers that are that exact size. It is fairly common. I have polk audio 6 3/4" speakers and will need to cut out a little from the existing hole to fit them. The hole itself is prob closer to 6.5" technically. I read some places that the door speakers are a 6x9 opening, this is NOT TRUE. If you have original wiring, the wiring clip to the original speakers actually comes apart and you can plug them right to the new speakers (unless you are using different cable). Word of advice, if you run new cable, tie the old cable to the new one (in the speaker hole) and pull through the rubber boot on the door up into the area where the new deck will be. Get yourself a wiring adapter, it will allow you to easily match the old cables (such as hot and ground and ante.) and will match right up to the new deck. Walmart sells them here.
Measure how deep your sub and box will be. Many aftermarket ones will require you to have the seat permanently scooted forward. get a low profile one in a low profile box.

 

6.5" rounds fit with plenty of room to spare.

You may need to drill new mounting holes though, I did.

 

Thanks guys hopefully I can get them in today.

 

I have an 82 f250 are they the same size as the 90

 

Just re-did my entire sound system. Yes the door speakers are 6 1/2" or 6 3/4", both work. The thing is though, make sure the speakers CUT-OUT diameter is no bigger than 5 inches, or you will have to enlarge the holes in the doors a little bit. I had to take about 1/4" off the opening all the way around the opening to get the speakers to sit flush. As for rear speakers, if you plan on running new ones, they need to have a mounting depth of 2" or less. Trust me, this is all from experience of buying without knowing, and finding out the hard way the first time around. Second time around I was prepared, ordered the right speakers and all was well. As far as the other things, I recommend a properly sized amp installation kit, speaker wire for the sub, and a wire harness adapter for your truck for the stereo. Here's one: Scosche FD02B Wire Harness to Connect an Aftermarket Stereo
As for the sub box, as well as finding one to fit your truck, make sure its the proper size for the sub. What equipment do you have? I can help more if I know what you are working with.

 

I just put a new head unit and speakers in my 97.
I recommend going through Crutchfield.com.(If you don't already have the speakers) Just give them a call and tell them the year/make/model, and they will give you a list of speakers/head units, that they have available to fit your truck

 

Use wiring harness adapters everywhere! Trust me, it makes life SO much easier. You'll need the harness adapter(s) that connect the stereo itself, and the adapter for the speakers. A lot of folks don't use the speaker adapters, but Ford doesn't leave you a lot of slack in the stock wiring, so I've found them to make life MUCH easier! The two main brands out there are Scosche and Metra. I've used both and they're both fine. You'll also need the adapter kit to mount the radio in the dash. Same brands apply. Those are a little more of a PITA for our trucks because we use the 'Super Universal' kit that has brackets and tabs for seemingly EVERY vehicle out there, 90% of which you'll have to hack off. It takes a little time, but it's all very easy.

For the sub, you'll need to find a box to fit the speaker. Where you put is up to you, but obviously a truck cab has limited options. If you have a regular cab, the most common method is to find a thin angled box to fit behind the seat. Only problem is finding the right compromise between a box that fits the speaker, fits behind the seat, and doesn't take away leg room (OK, that last one may just be an issue for me). After that, you'll need to wire in the amp. They make amp install kits that get you most of what you need. The biggest headache is figuring out how/where to route the power cable from the battery into the cab. Just remember to use a grommet or some other means of protection for the cable at the entry point so that the sharp sheet metal doesn't chaff the wiring insulation. You'll also need to run a couple of wires from the head unit to the amp. Usually the amp kit will come with these. The audio is typically carried through RCA cables, but you'll also have to run signal wire off the head unit harness that signals the amp to turn on. It will splice right into the aftermarket wiring harness, so don't worry too much about it.

With the door speakers, I find it easiest to rotate the speaker until it lines up with as many OE mounting holes as possible, screw it in, then drill the last couple of holes as necessary. Just remember to do this with the window UP so you don't accidentally send the bit through the glass (very unlikely, but I have heard of weirder things happening).

Tools/stuff you'll need:

Wiring harness adapter (both for the stereo and for the doors)
Stereo install kit
Amp install kit
Butt connectors, or soldering iron if you're up to it
Crimp tool (for the butt connectors)
Wire cutters
Wire stripping tool (or a razor blade, or sharp knife, or whatever)
Philips screwdriver (to remove door panel and speakers)
Door panel removal tool (optional, but makes popping out the mounting tabs SO much easier. Available at any parts stores)
Window crank removal tool (optional, and only needed if you have manual windows, but again, this makes the job much eaiser. Otherwise you'll be fishing off the clip with pliers. No fun)
Torx bit (to remove the stock stereo. Cannot remember which size, but it's small. Actually, I THINK you can use a basic socket as well now that I think of it)
Drill

In all, it's actually a very easy DIY job. Don't shy away from it. Just use the wiring adapter harnesses and take your time routing and hiding the wires for a clean look and you'll be fine.

Mike

PS - A couple of tips on the amp..... Most people prefer to run the power cable for the amp as far away from the RCA cables as possible. Some say routing them next to one another will cause electrical noise through the speaker the amp powers. I've always heeded that advice, but I'd imagine you'd be OK so long as the RCAs you use are a quality cable. Also, for grounding the amp, I always used one of the bolts for the seat belt mount on the cab floor. The downside is that the bolt is a much larger torx bit, but it makes a handy spot to install the ground wire and works very well.

 

i removed my center seat and built my own console that house's two 12" subs and also used memory foam for the top part for the arm rest area, added two cup holders with red led lights wired to work with my factory light switch and dimmer. Built an area into the console for later expansion of either gauges, 10" flat screen or what not...



heres a picture of the cupholders at night.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions, is there an aftermarket speaker box that is made for under the back seat on the extended cabs?