Interesting. The truck is red. No two-tone. I wonder when in its life they did away with the white?

The 3.55 rear gears is the only explanation why the truck is willing to move when you hit the go pedal based on how underpowered I keep reading the 302 in it is.

To be an overdrive automatic, that would mean AOD, right? Labeled on back "Overdrive", seller said it had it, and it obviously kicks over into OD @ 55 MPH. It shifts hard...which is better than slipping...just curious if safe to change fluid, what a rebuild is like in one, how it would be behind a 351w, any sort of tuning kit for it, etc.

Did any of that help decode the ignition and carb (feedback or not?) I'm running or do I still need to get time to snap some additional shot of those with the air cleaner off?

BTW, thanks for the decode.

 

Well, according to the book, there were 4 automatic-overdrive transmissions used 1981/89 represented by a code of T on the label. I really have no idea which one you have (the AOD is a tranny representing only one of the four).

I would personally change the fluid. You hear/read old wives' tales about how doing that can cause an old tranny to suddenly stop working, I don't buy it. I forget what the exact arguments are but, as I recall, they were pretty ludicrous to me.

To me, replacing old, worn-out fluid & friction modifiers is going to be better than using 30 yo stuff.

Feedback carb or not, EFI or not, DS2 or TFI, none of that shows up on the labels, you need to look at it to figure it out (post pictures).

 

I will look at the bolt pattern on the tranny pan to determine unit. I kind of recall now when crawling underneath it said scripted "Automatic Overdrive" on the pan.

Yeah I'm of a similar mindset. Besides it isn't a daily driver so if it stops running due to fresh fluids in transmission and differential then I'm...well I'm mad and poor but at least I'm not without a way to get to work.

I'll work on getting the pics of the distributor, ignition (I think I did snap this tonight) and the carb.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/criticman/8137049768/
My part # doesn't match any option listed on Rock Auto. Close but no cigar. Ideas?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/criticman/8137020927/
Also I learned it is indeed a feedback carb. Impact of this with regards to smog & egr?

 

It will run with the feedback carb, but not run really well. The main component of the feedback system is a computer box that lives in the cab, behind the gas pedal. A metal box with many wires going into it.

But even if that computer is there, that isn't what we would need to know. The feedback system controls ignition timing, and so the real question is do you have a feedback distributor. Does your distributor have wires going into a deck-of-cards sized module located below the distributor cap - jutting out from the lower part of the distributor shaft housing?

If you have a full feedback system, it works best only when all the components are present as initially installed.

 

You have the Exhaust Control Valve, correct?

The ID number on that manifold is:

E3TE-9431-AA

and that's the left (driver's) side, correct?

 

The part number for the manifold appears to be a 5.8L / F250 manifold. So...would these have been considered an upgrade over stock manifolds on the 5.0? Would it even be an exact fit or is that perhaps why I have a leak? Could I perhaps have a different motor in there than stock, since based on the codes truck was two tone but is definitely all red and who knows what else might have been changed...

Or could the previous owner simply have bought the wrong replacement part back in the day?

EDIT: ct yes that's what I see on there for the number and yes there appears to be exhaust control valve. I posted pic of it a few items back.

 

The 302 and some 351Ws share the same manifold (according to the parts catalog) on non-EFI engines.

Look at the numbers on the other side.

 

That's a good point, I wonder what engine you really have....

Here's a diagram from Franklin2, go look at your engine and compare:




mmmm..... Please don't do that, man - edit your post to insert an answer to a question asked subsequently. I tend to rely on the thread bubbling to the top of the list - as when a new post has been added - or on the e-mail messages telling me a thread has been updated by somebody.

Neither of those happen when you edit your post, which means I'd be thinking that you left, hadn't seen my question/post and hadn't responded at all. Nor do I generally go back and read previous posts unless I knew there was something said I want to go look at again.

 

I see RockAuto has the same part number for 5.0 as 5.8 so guessing their system is just wrong.

RealOEM.com was a great model and engine specific parts reference for BMW's, including 2D renderings of parts, locations, etc. Does a similar site exist for Ford?

Anyway I'll check out front of block and compare to diagram tomorrow to see. Probably is just typo on RockAuto and I'm not blessed with the 351 instead of the 302.

As for reply vs edit, sorry some forums frown on double posting so since my reply was after yours and no one had replied yet I edited it. If simply posting another reply is kosher here I'll do that in future. I agree it is easier to keep up with them that way.

 

I would think the same but I couldn't find that on Rock's site? Well, their search engine didn't find it.

But... google that number and you'll find all kinds o' stuff.

Not that I'm aware of, I generally rely on the FoMoCo 1980/89 Light Truck Master Parts Catalog, available for ~$20 from hipoparts.com:

1980-89 Ford 100-500 Series Truck Master Parts Catalog CD - HiPo Parts Garage

 

Yeah Google resulted in the F250/5.8 find from a Rock Auto competitor and a few eBay and pick apart used listings.

Thanks for the link that CD looks like it could be invaluable. I also have a free LMC Truck catalog coming that has some body, interior, and accessory diagrams in detail inside of it.

 

Well this was a bad day in truck land. After getting all of the old rusted bolts and nuts off, when we lifted the manifold and heat riser off we found the manifold in decent shape (no cracks) but the heat riser was cracked and some sort of bushing where the valve pivots is clearly missing. So this is where my leak was. No one local has the part nor could they order it. I did find it online though.

I also went hunting for where the vacuum line off of heat riser ends up only to find a huge mess of cut hoses, hoses plugged with screws, and electrical connectors to carb and other areas unplugged. It appears this was done to defeat some emissions items and perhaps remove the "feedback" aspect of the carb?

I took a lot of pics that I will need to upload of the mess for help identifying things. That being said, I'm torn as to what to do.

I can either:
-return the manifold, reuse old one with new gasket (possibly have it decked to ensure a good seal?), and replace the heat riser with a new one.
-use new manifold and replace the heat riser
-return the manifold and order a non-heat riser version (is it merely longer with rounded flange to seal into the y-pipe?) to replace it, doing away with heat riser since a lot of emissions is already disabled
-reuse manifold and have an exhaust shop somehow fabricate connection to y-pipe without a heat riser

Please, no suggesting replacing all of the broken emissions pieces...I don't even want to begin to figure out that cost.

Finally, why does the heat riser matter? What in the world would nearly shutting off the exhaust flow on one side do for the truck?

 

IIRC the heat riser is to help warm up the carb in cold weather, providing for better atomization of the fuel (and resulting it smoother operation).

Yeah, it sounds to me like somebody "improved" the engine by "disconnecting all that crap" to "make it run better." Clearly done by someone without a clue.

If the "feedback" aspect of the carb has been disabled, I'd expect the computer to put the truck into limp-home mode. The ignition timing never gets advanced, air/fuel ratio is set to run pig rich (which it may not be able to do if the computer can't talk to it and one or two other things are happen. It's a pre-defined setup intended only to get one home (or to a repair shop).

Some people are just soooooo stupid.

Look in the Tech Tips sticky at the top and read up on DSII swaps.

 

How does it help warm up the carb? By making that cylinder head heat up?

Yeah it looks like they may have at least looked at the vac diagram as the truck runs fairly well whatever they did.

So other than DSII dist/carb swap, what about the manifold issue at hand? Truck is sitting without a driver side exhaust manifold at moment so a little crippled.