I have a 95' f250 With the 351w and the water pump started to leak so i bought a new pump, so while removing the pump the double bolt on the left side that goes into the block broke . Looks like I'll have to drill a hole in the bolt shaft and get an easy out to try and get it out. Do you Knowledgable guy's have a way you use to get it out? The bolt is just inside the timing cover so thats why i need to drill a hole first. all the help would be appericiated greatly

 

Sounds like your removing the timing cover. If your doing that, time to get a new timing chain. Might as well since your that far.
Try some heat and if you can, try welding a nut to the left over of the stud.
If all else fails, buy a helicoil kit and drill the sucker out, just don't drill too deep.

 

This happens a lot. Its never a good time, but it is fixable.
Whenever aluminum and steel are together you have oxidation issues. What usually happens on these timing covers is the oxidation siezes the bolt to the cover and also weakens the bolt, so they break off.
Unfortunately, the oxidation is still there. You may be able to drill and easyout the bolt, or you may not. Usually not.

If it doesn't come out with the easyout you will have to pull the timing cover, then a vicegrip will pull the bolt out pretty easily usually since it was mostly stuck to the cover, not in the block.
You may or may not be able to see a bunch of white powder around the bolt now, this is the oxidation.

Being patient is your best chance of getting the bolt out. If you aren't a patient person, you may want to skip the next part and just pull the cover.

I'd start by getting some PB Blaster with the red plastic nozzle extension and try to spray it between the bolt and cover as best you can. I'm not sure how much it really helps, but it will make me feel better. (lol)

You want to avoid messing up the timing cover when trying to drill the bolt, its much softer than the bolt.

You will want to get a good center punch mark on the bolt before you drill. Did the bolt break off square or at an angle? You can tell by looking at the piece that broke off if its too far in the cover to see well.
If its not square, you can try using one of those pointed, tree shaped grinders on the end of your drill (a die grinder is better if you have one) to make yourself a flat spot in the center of the bolt.

One way or the other, once you have a flat spot in the center of the bolt so the center punch won't slip, center punch it with a good punch and a driving hammer if you have one. A good sharp punch is more important than the kind of hammer, but the short heavy driving hammer works well in tight spaces.

Use a good easyout, cheap tools have their place but this isn't it. I start with a smaller bit than is needed since its easier to control, but thats really a personal preference. I just drill about an 1/8th or so, then switch to the correct bit. Drill as straight down the center of the bolt as you can, a good angle drill is handy, or just a small drill, but whatever you can get in there will work.
If you slide off the center of the bolt, Stop.
You may be able to try again with a better center punch mark, but chances are you will have to pull the cover.

If you do get a good hole drilled, then firmly tap the easyout into to get a good bite. Keep as much pressure on the easyout as you can. If it slips, it probably won't ever grip as good again as it did the first time. If you are lucky the bolt comes out. If not, you have to pull the cover.

When you bolt the waterpump back on, be sure to use antiseize.

 

(Did the bolt break off square or at an angle? You can tell by looking at the piece that broke off if its too far in the cover to see well.)
Yes it broke off square. Which would be easier to do pull the cover or try and easyout the old bolt? From what i can see the cover might be a better option then I could get a better bite from vicegrips.

 

Most likely you are better off just pulling the cover. I have everything handy to try easy out the bolt so I give it a shot if the bolt isn't too corroded. But, I have everything right handy, if you have to hunt stuff down or buy anything then I'd just pull the cover, most likely you will have to anyway.
The bolt generally comes out easy after the cover is off. They are usually seized to the cover itself, not the block.

 

Okay that being said,what is involved in removing the cover. from what I can see (two bolts from the oilk pan and then the bolts for the cover). Do I need to take off the balancer?

 

I believe there are 4 bolts into the cover from the pan.
You do have to remove the dampner/balancer.
Also drain the coolant first.
You will have to change the oil after you are done as some water and gasket material will get in the pan. I stuff a rag in there to minimize the junk in the pan.
The last one of these I did was on an '88 t-bird a couple of years ago, so I don't recall exactly what has to be removed regarding brackets and what have you, just have a look with a good light to make sure nothing else is bolted to it.
I use high-tack or some other type of gasket glue to glue the gaskets to the cover itself an test fit the bolts before reassembling it. Then a light coat of rtv over everything and a little extra in the corners.
I imagine you can find some videos of the procedure on the net, it happens a lot.

 

Okay,well I know what I'll be doing tomorrow. I GREATLY appreciate all the help you have given.

 

Fearful of this happening, I did some experimentation when removing mine. First I went to see what would all come out, 2 came loose without much difficulty. The others were questionable, so the testing began.

Using a short hammer bit, I very carefully used my air hammer to vibrate/tap the bolt heads, hopefully breaking the corrosion between the bolts and the timing cover. Next up was some careful and strategically applied heat to expand things a little. A little more tapping and liberal use of PB Blaster.

Decided to go for it, and after some nervous pressure, the remaining bolts came loose. Anti-seized them when putting it back together for good measure.

 

Man I am having HUGE trouble trying to get the cover off. I got all the bolts off the cover but the bolt that has the corrosion on it has realy stuck the bolt onto the cover. tried plenty of pb blaster and heat even tring to gently pry with a smallish pry bar. any other idea could I use?

 

just let it soak with the pb, and slighty tap on the broken bolt as your prying it out, if you can get a gasket scraper on the back side as a lever and tap on the front, slow and steady wins the race

 

You called it Puddy!! pb Blaster,heat and prying it with smallish bars FINALLY got it to come off, and just like bdelmar2 the bolt came out okay. Now I get to hunt down the proper bolt sieze and thread! THANK YOU ALL for the help and words of encouragement.

 

Congratulations!
Thank You for posting how it went and what you did!
Right now I have the same broken bolt in mine. ONly mine happened after I finished and I was retorqing to specs. a week after I changed timing chain cover gasket and oil pan gasket. It has all held together with no leaks for about 2 years now. The bolt that broke was actually not the original. It was a brand new stainless steel bolt that I got at HOme Depot. So I recommend getting a high grade bolt.
I'm dreading the day I have to go after mine!

 

Glad to hear you got the bolt removed!
When I put Ford waterpump bolts back in I cover the whole bolt with antiseize.

I think you can buy bolt kits for them, or maybe find a good one in a yard. If you buy one at the hardware store you'll want to get the same grade bolt ford used, or better. You can tell by the lines on the heads. I think they are grade 5, which is 3 lines. If they are grade 8 they have 5 lines.

If you really want to keep the oxidation down you could try spraying the inside of the bolt holes in the timing cover with high temp paint after cleaning them well. I once wirewheeled all the aluminum on a '96 Camaro and sprayed it with high temp clear. It still looked pretty good the last time I saw it a few years later. Normally if you wire wheel aluminum it starts to oxidize right away and after a short time looks just like it did before you cleaned it. The antiseize is probably good enough though.

 

Ya I got a new water pump stud kit from Oreilly's, baught the pump from there but wasn't happy with the review's so returne it and baught one from autozone,and yes i brushed antisieze from threat to head and retorqed them. just about done have to put the coolant line on and fill the system, and finish putting all the fan pulley's and fan shroud and then test the repair!