4 barrel swap
#1
4 barrel swap
My stock carb still isn't right and I'm thinking of buying a non egr intake and putting a 4 barrel on it. If I do this, I want to set it up like a 60's era smallblock with as little vac. Lines as possible. Will I run into any mechanical problems doing this? I really want efi but I cant afford it.
#2
While I can't recommend you do this due to Federal laws, I know that an Edelbrock Performer intake and an Edelbrock Performer carb will work well. I wouldn't go to the Performer RPM intake as that is setup for slightly higher RPM and you need all the low-end torque you can get. Run the vacuum advance off of ported vacuum.
The only mechanical issue is not a problem but a irritation. The Performer manifolds seem to place the carb in a different position than the stock intakes, which makes the stock throttle cable bracket at the wrong angle and location, which causes the cable to have slack in it. I've modified the stock bracket to work, but I believe E'brock sells a bracket and you might want to consider that. Otherwise, it is bolt-on.
The only mechanical issue is not a problem but a irritation. The Performer manifolds seem to place the carb in a different position than the stock intakes, which makes the stock throttle cable bracket at the wrong angle and location, which causes the cable to have slack in it. I've modified the stock bracket to work, but I believe E'brock sells a bracket and you might want to consider that. Otherwise, it is bolt-on.
#4
No, it should not. And, that should be all the carb you need on a 302. I'm running the 1406 on a 351M and it didn't require adjusting, but I'm going to do some anyway and will probably have to put it back stock.
The 1406, which is the economy carb, is jetted slightly leaner than the 1405, which is more of a performance carb. Same carb but with different intent.
The 1406, which is the economy carb, is jetted slightly leaner than the 1405, which is more of a performance carb. Same carb but with different intent.
#6
It gets cold enough in your area, that you do need to keep the original air cleaner and the vacuum lines and heat pipe that goes to it. You will hate it in the winter if you get rid of this hot air system.
A lot of the 60's era engines had carbs with cast iron bases, or different heat riser setups, that directed heat directly to the bottom of the carb to warm it up and keep it from icing,, so they didn't have the air cleaner snorkel heat system. But some did, the old mustangs had the snorkel system even back then.
A lot of the 60's era engines had carbs with cast iron bases, or different heat riser setups, that directed heat directly to the bottom of the carb to warm it up and keep it from icing,, so they didn't have the air cleaner snorkel heat system. But some did, the old mustangs had the snorkel system even back then.
#7
It gets cold enough in your area, that you do need to keep the original air cleaner and the vacuum lines and heat pipe that goes to it. You will hate it in the winter if you get rid of this hot air system.
A lot of the 60's era engines had carbs with cast iron bases, or different heat riser setups, that directed heat directly to the bottom of the carb to warm it up and keep it from icing,, so they didn't have the air cleaner snorkel heat system. But some did, the old mustangs had the snorkel system even back then.
A lot of the 60's era engines had carbs with cast iron bases, or different heat riser setups, that directed heat directly to the bottom of the carb to warm it up and keep it from icing,, so they didn't have the air cleaner snorkel heat system. But some did, the old mustangs had the snorkel system even back then.
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#8
For the 12V source with the engine running, if your truck has idiot lights, get an oil pressure switch for an older (pre-88) Omni. This switch has 3 terminals, center is oil light, outer 2 are closed with oil pressure. If you have gauges you can still use it or Chevy Vegas had a similar switch to control the fuel pump.
I may be backwards as to which switch is which, but look on Rock Auto for pictures. The Omni/Horizon switch was used for the electric choke control on the 1.7L and 2.2L engines, the Vega one was for the electric fuel pump on the 2.3L engine.
I may be backwards as to which switch is which, but look on Rock Auto for pictures. The Omni/Horizon switch was used for the electric choke control on the 1.7L and 2.2L engines, the Vega one was for the electric fuel pump on the 2.3L engine.
#9
The edelbrock carbs come with very detailed instructions and pictures.
Also, a DVD that shows you how to adjust your idle,etc...
Also, as previously stated, it will be plenty of carb for your 302.
I am running the 1406 on a 351W HO and it is great.
I am also running a 1405 (600 CFM also) on a 460 and it is still enough for it...
Not trying to influence your decision, just giving you information from my personal experience with this brand of carb...Trav...
#11
You can order all the bits from someone like Jegs. Order a 1406 with the Ford linkage, including auto tranny kickdown, electric choke, and the throttle bracket for a 302.
#12
#13
#14
1406: The 600 CFM Performer carb w/e-choke. Correct
1483: Ford throttle kit. Correct
1490: Ford throttle cable bracket. Says it is correct. Use with original bracket.
Looks like you are good to go. The only thing I can think of is a 90 degree inlet, but I can't find it on their web site. I used one because my air cleaner pushed down on the fuel line and I didn't like that. But, it wasn't necessary and I picked mine up at O'Reilly's as they had it in stock, so doesn't need to be ordered now.
#15
I started tonight. I have everything off and I'm starting back with it in the morning. I am going have problems with the power brakes though. Edelbrock recommends running the PVC valve off of the front of the carb and the power brakes off of the rear of the carb. Problem is there in no nipple in the back. Only a drilled and tapped hole. How do I hook it up?