Yeah, you want to measure your Duty Cycles and ICP pressure to determine if that was needed.
with 160/100's, the stock 17 will be fine.

 

Appreciate it, gonna try and get everything ordered and lined up this week (minus injectors i gotta give jim a week heads up and hell have them sitting there for me).

Just hard pulling the trigger on $7-8 big ones all in one big bang if yeah know what i mean Good thing i have job security for 2 more years, and live in the barracks with next to nothing for bills!o

Bet Clay cant wait to get this phone call....!!!!

 

Still no apology PM... I'll keep checking.

 

I'm sad, At least he'll argue with you. He's ignoring me.

 

ive read this whole thing and i gotta say im a bit stunned......with stage 2's youre probably gonna need more oil....hell half the people on this site run a modded pump with stock sticks.....and they have seen a benefit....can you run them on a worn out stock hpop? sure.....you definitely need to get your pump's numbers but almost guarantee you - you will benefit from an hpop upgrade.....now on to the turbo....same situation....can you run a stocker? yup...will it last very long? im betting not.....it depends on how you are gonna drive it....are you getting bigger sticks to drive it like a granny? nope....so youre gonna be in the go pedal alot more than you think youll be....theres nothing wrong with that but you should start saving for a different turbo asap....atleast if you keep the stocker you wont have to worry about studding or putting in springs.....cuz your truck wont be running at full potential.....if youre gonna have the uppies out anyway you might as well throw in a better turbo.....atleast with a better turbo youll be able to control the egt's a little better....the stocker will shoot you high in the temps REAL fast....those are my opinions......

 

Lolz!!! You're alight Joe. Springer, you too. Glad we got that behind us.

 

At least you're smart enough to know I'm ignoring you. That other crackhead, not so much.

 

See its post's like that make me think....hmmm

My totals with everything right now are bringing to about 11grand, thats overshooting the costs of everything, including all parts motor etc and paying for fuel to get it up to ohio, its a little less than 11 but i like to overshoot everything so its AS painful later on. For 11grand i could and maybe should go with another truck, but then id be at square 1 all over again. Im trying to not be deterred but for this to happen the build actually has to work, and mind you i need it to work and stay working atleast for the foreseeable future, im trying to build a "fun" (not insane) truck to get me around in, like i said i appreciate and value EVERYONES input, this just isnt something thats easy to squeeze. I started this having a budget of roughly 8k in mind, but throwing the injectors in the mix are hurting me. I may just have mine rebuilt stay stock for awhile until i can reasonably afford to upgrade. I like to keep some buffer room in the bank account incase something like this does happen and have been saving for this for quite some time, its almost physically painful seeing my numbers come out the way they are

I know it will be all worth it in the end, and nothing is 100% predictable, stuff happens and stuff breaks but it would literally kill me to throw this kind of money into my dream daily driver, only to have it parked again in a month lol

 

Alright, let me respond to some things real quick like... (hope that didnt offend our rezident grammar ****, or should i say commie)

My comments made about the HPOP were not intended to imply that he NEEDED one. Simply was saying that between a 38R and a HPOP, IMO the hpop will have more of a difference in day to day driving and seat of the pants. Of course, it is not necessary if your stock one can keep up with what your tuner of choice calls for in terms of DC and PSI.

X2 for a scan gauge. This is why I was asking which oil pressure you were intending to view. If you were wanting to view engine oil pressure then I would have said go for it. HPOP is best monitored through a scangauge. Not only that but it will also allow you to run buzz tests and a few other nifty tricks. Honestly with my truck, I pay more attention to my fuel pressure gauge and EGT than anything else (of course mine is a handshaker so no need for tranny temps).

Another x2 on the van turbo. They are usually a lot cheaper than a 38R, and they are tried and tested. Add to that the fact that it is a simple drop in, rebuildable, and you can eventually put a ported housing on it, and I think it is a perfect solution for someone looking at the power levels the OP is talking about. Not to mention that for the price of a 38R he could find a van turbo, rebuild it, and still have money left over to buy beer for the install, it seems like a great idea.

Bill raised a good point about studs and springs. Of course, neither of these are necessary, however IF your engine is out it might be something to consider. Maybe not the springs, but the studs.

JD,

Could you possibly post up exactly what you are doing to your engine? You mention 7-8K, but all it seems we have talked about is $1400 for injectors. I'm curious what you are having done to your engine. It will also help us to help you as far as your long term goals, ideal set up, and the easiest order in terms of start to finish.

So far it seems to me like you are going about things the right way. Correct me if I'm wrong but your situation is as follows:

Your current engine is not running, so you are either in the process of pulling it and having it rebuilt for some reason, or putting a new one in. You have decided that if you are going to be going through this much of a hassle you might as well upgrade it and put some fun stuff on it while you're* spending money already. To accomplish this, you are looking for a medium HP (Approx. 400) build, that will be reliable, and do whatever you ask out of it. Towards this end, you have decided to go with 160/100 single shots, you already have gauges, you are not sure on which tuner to go with, you are considering possibly more upgrades, but you are trying to avoid spending 10K on building a complete performance engine.


If that is correct, then I believe you are on a good start. Get yourself a scangauge, a fuel pressure gauge, as well as the normal supporting mods (some form of regulated return, open up your exhaust) throw your sticks of choice into it, and go run her. Be prepared to replace the turbo with a more robust one, easiest and cheapest would be a van turbo. Other than that it sounds like you'll be set for a fun DD that still is capable of towing, is relatively cheap to build, and will be completely reliable.

*Happy Texas? This time I made a conscious effort to proof read what I wrote just to keep you happy. BTW, if you really want to start the grammar wars, we can, but you will lose.

 

Sure... You might pick up 15hp with a modded 17... Big deal.

If the stock 17* pump is putting out enough pressure to keep the duty cycle below 50%, then adding more volumn will not give you anything worth while, ok, maybe your pocket book might net you a .0001 hp.


I saw NO egt issues with a stock turbo and stage 2's. What does a turbo combo do with needing studs?

Boost pressures have squat to do with needing head studs.

Cylinder pressures lift heads, not boost pressures.

 

Ziggy with 689HP RRE 2012 - YouTube Here you go nonbeliver.
700hp on a STOCK hpop.


To idiot check myself.
It might have been an OLD modded 17.
Huge difference between old modded 17 and t-500.
HUGE.

Even then, we are talking 2 times the horse power this guys truck is going to be making.
So...
Yeah.

Will a bigger Hpop benefit him?
Probably not.
Does it benefit us OBS guys?
Hell yes.

 

The best part is, I've said the mean hurtful ****.
He's actually the one correcting you because you don't know your *** from a hole in the ground.

 

Actually a hole in the ground is more useful....at least you can bury a body in it....

 

He should just crawl in it and STFU then.
hahaha.

 

In response to 2000ca250, since im struggling to keep up with you guys (again dang yall are fast at this):

Your on track with what im planning so far ill break it down for you:

Transporting the truck from here to Ohio, my stepdad will be hauling it up for me on his flatbed and im figuring about $650 for fuel and his wasted day, give or take thats a rough number.

Motor work, New(ish?) Block with all new forged internals, new heads, new gaskets, Melling LPOP, all new internals in the heads (minus injectors), UVCH's, complete swap minus my covers/injectors/hpop/turbo. (i may be forgetting some things here. Im looking at roughly $4500ish depending on what taxes come out to and the exact condition of my motor, depends on how much hes paying me for mine. im figuring on the upside $5500 for sanity's sake on this.

From Clay- New IC Boots (my boots are in pretty bad shape POSSIBLY re-usable prefer not to though), FRx, HPx, OCR, AE Ford Enhanced (the AE isnt an option im buying it) & Fuel pressure guage= $928 and some change

From Beans- TS 6POS With 6 tunes $510 roughly with the 6 tunes

Total so far: That brings me to $...7588

Throw in the injectors +1500 from rosewood= $9088

Now considering my motor will be realistically significantly cheaper (probable a full thousand dollars cheaper) im looking at $8k to get me on the road. $9000.00 out the door is more realistic for me, considering the small other things (new fluids, etc). I also have sitting in the cab, ih bellowed up pipes, 4" down pipe, ALL new sensors (ICP,IPR,EBP,Engine oil pressure), Bobs o-ring combo kit to re-seal the hpop and fuelbowl, and a turbo reinstall kit. Remember the stock turbo is FRESH rebuilt with 0 miles and an E99 wheel, and hpop has never had a problem before. This is a "realistic" notice i quote realistic number for me to afford but much more than this it becomes not-practical to dump the money all at once. I lost my *** on my old 6.0 thank god USAA helped out and totaled it, but they didnt pay for $8grand in aftermarket parts that i got stuck trying to sell after buying to totaled truck back and essentially parting everything out, needless to say i didnt break even.

We also have to factor in time. Im active duty in the military and regardless of how much (62days to be exact), i dont get to choose when and how long i take leave, THEY DO. SO that being said i cant justify craigslisting a new motor, and rebuilding it myself, with the time involved and time spent at a machine shop id never get this finished, and oh id be driving a second vehicle that i dont have 700 miles back and forth to ohio on the weekends to accomplish this (getting max 30 hours of worktime in each weekend). So my build has to be tailored around my time available. Ive talked them into letting me have about 20 days off in november (20 being optimistic will realistically end up being 14ish days) to accomplish this daunting task. I have no doubt in my mind that i can get this done, we've pulled my and other 6.0s and had them stripped and on a stand in less than 10hours usually less depending on conditions. Thats why im between such a hard spot. Im very leary of buying "running" engines off of CL or other sites, because theres usually a reason there selling it....if you get my drift and then if it even does run, i have no idea how it was treated prior and only a matter of time until im doing this over. I want to do it right the first time so its the only time. A turbo right now is out of the question, it just wont fit, ill stick with stock injectors before a new turbo happens.


Quick edit before 239847239084 people respond---- i KNOW this will not get me to my intended goal, but it puts me well ahead of the curve on the way there, and there are only a couple of things holding me back from where i want to EVENTUALLY be, that being said, eat me alive, tell me what i do and dont need....give it to me real!