Riding lawn mowers
#1
Riding lawn mowers
If you were in the market for a new riding lawn mower, what would you get?
I currently have a Murray with a rear 8 HP Tecumseh engine. It's coming up on 15 years old and has never cost me a dime in repairs except battery replacement.
I only mow my yard, a suburban 1/3 acre lot, pull a cart sometimes with sand, mulch, etc and of course I mow.
I could walk behind a mower but I walk 12 miles per day at work so, I'll ride.
I really don't want to spend too much and I don't need a commercial machine that will cost me $2500 or more.
Suggestions, discussion?
I currently have a Murray with a rear 8 HP Tecumseh engine. It's coming up on 15 years old and has never cost me a dime in repairs except battery replacement.
I only mow my yard, a suburban 1/3 acre lot, pull a cart sometimes with sand, mulch, etc and of course I mow.
I could walk behind a mower but I walk 12 miles per day at work so, I'll ride.
I really don't want to spend too much and I don't need a commercial machine that will cost me $2500 or more.
Suggestions, discussion?
#2
If I had a mower that was still running strong after 15 years I wouldn't be in the market for a new mower..LOL
Not sure what riding mowers are best, but I have been told by some people who work on them to stay away from Craftsman..
I currently have a Saber by John Deere and it has been a good machine.. I don't like all the safety crap on them, but that it what you get now..
It I were looking I would probably stick with John Deere, Cub Cadet, or Simplicity..
As an added note.. I personally wouldn't buy a brand new mower..
I would look for a nice used one on Craigslist.. You will get more bang for your buck that way.. Possibly get a deal on one with all the attachments..
Not sure what riding mowers are best, but I have been told by some people who work on them to stay away from Craftsman..
I currently have a Saber by John Deere and it has been a good machine.. I don't like all the safety crap on them, but that it what you get now..
It I were looking I would probably stick with John Deere, Cub Cadet, or Simplicity..
As an added note.. I personally wouldn't buy a brand new mower..
I would look for a nice used one on Craigslist.. You will get more bang for your buck that way.. Possibly get a deal on one with all the attachments..
#4
I would buy a Craftsman or a John Deere. Murrays are ok but the decks are weak. I got 12 years of service with my old Murray wide body. I had a smooth yard there. My lot here is rough. i bent the deck several times. The motor blew so I built a 42 inch Craftsman. My cousin just gave me a JD 111.38 inch. Its a great mower Both of them run quicker than my Murray.When I bought my Murray my neighbor said it would not last. It out lasted 3 of his expensive mowers. I maintain my mowers. He doesn't change the oil or air filters. i change mine 2 to 3 times a summer. Air cooled motors get hot. Clean oil really helps them last.
#5
I presume that you mean a lawn 'tractor' since you do a little towing.
For around $1500 you can get something like a Cub Cadet or a Husqavarna.
Be advised, that they may be made by somebody like MTD. Most of the lower end ones are.
If you have a nice yard, and you take care of it, it will last a while. Don't know about 15 years, but it could happen.
I will say that I have a Cub -- the cheapest one with the Kohler engine and the hydrostatic trans. It's nowhere near as tough as my older Wheel Horses, but it does cut a lot better. Also, it turns a lot tighter. Just be prepared to be a little shocked when you drop the deck and you see how mickey mouse everything is put together.
Also, the tires seem to be pretty thin. I've had some trouble, but it could be my fault ( rough lot). My neighbor's Husky developed a leak after 2 months, and he complained so much that they gave him a free inner tube. ( He had to put it in).
Good Luck,
hj
For around $1500 you can get something like a Cub Cadet or a Husqavarna.
Be advised, that they may be made by somebody like MTD. Most of the lower end ones are.
If you have a nice yard, and you take care of it, it will last a while. Don't know about 15 years, but it could happen.
I will say that I have a Cub -- the cheapest one with the Kohler engine and the hydrostatic trans. It's nowhere near as tough as my older Wheel Horses, but it does cut a lot better. Also, it turns a lot tighter. Just be prepared to be a little shocked when you drop the deck and you see how mickey mouse everything is put together.
Also, the tires seem to be pretty thin. I've had some trouble, but it could be my fault ( rough lot). My neighbor's Husky developed a leak after 2 months, and he complained so much that they gave him a free inner tube. ( He had to put it in).
Good Luck,
hj
#6
Be advised that most residential hydro drive mowers are not rated for towing much of anything. If getting a hydro drive, check to be sure the tranny has a reservoir for fluid and a drain plug so you can change the fluid easily periodically. A filtered unit with drain/fill capacity would be ideal.
Most consumer models these days are sealed units. If you are a heavy man, have hills in your yard, or plan to tow a cart with any kind of frequency, you'll shorten the life of the oil in the pump. Sealed units can be drained and refilled, but it requires removing the transmission from the frame, at the very least and disassembly of the housing at the most.
Any engine you buy will be fine if you keep it serviced properly.
I like the "edge" cutting decks on John Deeres. They really seem to cut smoothly and evenly.
Hydro is the way to go, though. Once you've mowed yard with a foot operated hydro transmission, you'll never want gears again. Just spent the money for a good one.
If you cook a sealed unit, they are about $700-800 to replace. Part only, but labor only takes about 45 minutes.
Most consumer models these days are sealed units. If you are a heavy man, have hills in your yard, or plan to tow a cart with any kind of frequency, you'll shorten the life of the oil in the pump. Sealed units can be drained and refilled, but it requires removing the transmission from the frame, at the very least and disassembly of the housing at the most.
Any engine you buy will be fine if you keep it serviced properly.
I like the "edge" cutting decks on John Deeres. They really seem to cut smoothly and evenly.
Hydro is the way to go, though. Once you've mowed yard with a foot operated hydro transmission, you'll never want gears again. Just spent the money for a good one.
If you cook a sealed unit, they are about $700-800 to replace. Part only, but labor only takes about 45 minutes.
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#8
#9
I have two riding mowers.
I have a Troy-Bilt Pony that I use for the back yard and the ditches and a John Deere hydrostatic drive that i use for the front lawn only. Like Kal said earlier, a hydro is the way to go. Just using a foot pedal is sweet. I love my John Deere because of that, and also because it mows the lawn beautifully.
Now, the Troy-Bilt Pony, while an inexpensive mower ($1000), it isn't a slouch. It takes the brutality of our backyard environment and keeps right on running. I've had it five years and have never had a problem with it. Really takes a beating.
I have a Troy-Bilt Pony that I use for the back yard and the ditches and a John Deere hydrostatic drive that i use for the front lawn only. Like Kal said earlier, a hydro is the way to go. Just using a foot pedal is sweet. I love my John Deere because of that, and also because it mows the lawn beautifully.
Now, the Troy-Bilt Pony, while an inexpensive mower ($1000), it isn't a slouch. It takes the brutality of our backyard environment and keeps right on running. I've had it five years and have never had a problem with it. Really takes a beating.
#10
I've got a Craftsman 42" with a 17 HP Kohler engine and hydrostatic drive. Got it off some guy on Craigslist for $150. He said something was wrong with the transmission, but it turned out that he just had the lever pulled out that disengages the hydrostatic drive for when you need to roll it around by hand. (I'm halfway convinced that he knew this and just needed to give his wife an excuse why he needed to buy a new mower)
I'd like to have something a little bigger since we have 2 acres but for the price it does just fine, especially since we just bought our first house so a new $5K mower isn't really in the budget right now.
I'd like to have something a little bigger since we have 2 acres but for the price it does just fine, especially since we just bought our first house so a new $5K mower isn't really in the budget right now.
#11
I've got a Craftsman 42" with a 17 HP Kohler engine and hydrostatic drive. Got it off some guy on Craigslist for $150. He said something was wrong with the transmission, but it turned out that he just had the lever pulled out that disengages the hydrostatic drive for when you need to roll it around by hand. (I'm halfway convinced that he knew this and just needed to give his wife an excuse why he needed to buy a new mower)
I'd like to have something a little bigger since we have 2 acres but for the price it does just fine, especially since we just bought our first house so a new $5K mower isn't really in the budget right now.
I'd like to have something a little bigger since we have 2 acres but for the price it does just fine, especially since we just bought our first house so a new $5K mower isn't really in the budget right now.
I purchased a Cub Cadet 48" Tank demo with 20 hours on it. List was 5600 and I got it for 3200. It will mow at 12 mph and cuts like crazy. Not from Greenbergs but they are a good family run dealer that must be near your place.
#12
I buy used mowers for unbelievable prices all the time. I clean the carb, change the plugs & air filter & have a great mower. People do not take care of their mowers & I'm glad they don't. I have a Craftsman 42 inch with a 15.5 Briggs on it. I have about $80 in it. That includes the extra set of blades.I have 3 push mowers. All are 20 inch I have less than $20 in them. My favorite is a MSD 4.5 hp. It starts on the first pull as long as you pump the prime blub 5 times. I look for mowers setting up in yards. I make a offer & if they don't take it I walk away. I make my hunting & fishing money with the sale of mowers.
#13
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Great State of Texas
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8 Posts
If you were in the market for a new riding lawn mower, what would you get?
I currently have a Murray with a rear 8 HP Tecumseh engine. It's coming up on 15 years old and has never cost me a dime in repairs except battery replacement.
I only mow my yard, a suburban 1/3 acre lot, pull a cart sometimes with sand, mulch, etc and of course I mow.
I could walk behind a mower but I walk 12 miles per day at work so, I'll ride.
I really don't want to spend too much and I don't need a commercial machine that will cost me $2500 or more.
Suggestions, discussion?
I currently have a Murray with a rear 8 HP Tecumseh engine. It's coming up on 15 years old and has never cost me a dime in repairs except battery replacement.
I only mow my yard, a suburban 1/3 acre lot, pull a cart sometimes with sand, mulch, etc and of course I mow.
I could walk behind a mower but I walk 12 miles per day at work so, I'll ride.
I really don't want to spend too much and I don't need a commercial machine that will cost me $2500 or more.
Suggestions, discussion?
This is what I recommend.
Hampton Roads Lawn Maintenance | The Lawn Barber | Lawn Maintenance
#14
Tim,
I'm using a 20 year old Montgomery Wards ("Monkey Warts") rider, made by MTD.
16 hp Briggs & Stratton twin-cylinder w/ cast iron sleeves.
42" deck.
Sofar, I've replaced:
"Magnetron" (ignition part) when the mower was one year old.
Blades (every two years). Sharpen a couple of times a year.
Engine oil - every spring. Oil is checked before each start-up.
Air filter replaced every two years.
I just replaced the front axle, this year. ($87.00 part.)
Two tubes - left rear tire.
Three battery changes in 20 years.
Gasoline, of course.
Push mower - 1988 model Murray 21" self propelled.
5 hp Briggs & Stratton engine.
Replaced:
Drive axle - once.
Drive belt - twice.
Engine oil replaced every spring.
Air filter replaced every spring.
Blade changed every 2 years.
This mower starts on the first or second pull - each spring and every start-up.
Tim, here comes the kicker. . . . .
I got my dear old Dad's pushmower.
It's a 1977 model "Bobcat" (commercial) push mower. Not self-propelled.
Here's what's been replaced.
I took the 4 hp Briggs & Stratton engine off this mower, in 1988, and put a 1982 model Briggs & Stratton 3.5 hp engine on the Bobcat.
The ignition box went bad on the 4 hp engine, and Dad needed the mower back in service, so, I gave him my pushmower engine.
The 4 hp engine is in the shed, at my parents' house, still.
Engine oil is changed every spring.
Air filter is changed every spring.
New blades (21") every 5 years!
I put 4 new wheels on this mower, in 2002.
It starts every time, first pull!
The new ones aren't as good as the old ones!
Most are made by MTD, now, too.. . . . including Cub Cadet, John Deere (the ones sold in the big box stores, anyway), Ariens, White, Toro. . . . a bunch of 'em!
Keep what you've got, Tim!!!!
I'm using a 20 year old Montgomery Wards ("Monkey Warts") rider, made by MTD.
16 hp Briggs & Stratton twin-cylinder w/ cast iron sleeves.
42" deck.
Sofar, I've replaced:
"Magnetron" (ignition part) when the mower was one year old.
Blades (every two years). Sharpen a couple of times a year.
Engine oil - every spring. Oil is checked before each start-up.
Air filter replaced every two years.
I just replaced the front axle, this year. ($87.00 part.)
Two tubes - left rear tire.
Three battery changes in 20 years.
Gasoline, of course.
Push mower - 1988 model Murray 21" self propelled.
5 hp Briggs & Stratton engine.
Replaced:
Drive axle - once.
Drive belt - twice.
Engine oil replaced every spring.
Air filter replaced every spring.
Blade changed every 2 years.
This mower starts on the first or second pull - each spring and every start-up.
Tim, here comes the kicker. . . . .
I got my dear old Dad's pushmower.
It's a 1977 model "Bobcat" (commercial) push mower. Not self-propelled.
Here's what's been replaced.
I took the 4 hp Briggs & Stratton engine off this mower, in 1988, and put a 1982 model Briggs & Stratton 3.5 hp engine on the Bobcat.
The ignition box went bad on the 4 hp engine, and Dad needed the mower back in service, so, I gave him my pushmower engine.
The 4 hp engine is in the shed, at my parents' house, still.
Engine oil is changed every spring.
Air filter is changed every spring.
New blades (21") every 5 years!
I put 4 new wheels on this mower, in 2002.
It starts every time, first pull!
The new ones aren't as good as the old ones!
Most are made by MTD, now, too.. . . . including Cub Cadet, John Deere (the ones sold in the big box stores, anyway), Ariens, White, Toro. . . . a bunch of 'em!
Keep what you've got, Tim!!!!
#15
I just wanted to add, I would ditch the traditional style, and look into a zero turn. If you have never used one before, try one, you'll love it.
I bought a Bad Boy zero turn with a 60 inch deck, and I can do my lawn in 2 hours, where it would take me 12 hours to do previously with my riding tractor with the 48 inch deck.
I bought a Bad Boy zero turn with a 60 inch deck, and I can do my lawn in 2 hours, where it would take me 12 hours to do previously with my riding tractor with the 48 inch deck.