Steves' 49 f1 project
#16
#17
Pulled the am radio or what's left of it. Man that thing was big and heavy.
Also found a little switch under the dash. After some research I thought it was for the dash lights but looks like someone bypassed that, and hooked it to the brake switch. Sooo somebody was probally doing something illegal.
I need to figure out how I'm going to get some of the switches and cables out every single one is frozen up solid from the truck setting out in the elements for 30+ years.
Even the ebrake cable is frozen up. I tried to take the pin out that holds the clasp and its frozen in place. Man I wish I had a torch to carefull heat some of this stuff up to get it apart.
Also found a little switch under the dash. After some research I thought it was for the dash lights but looks like someone bypassed that, and hooked it to the brake switch. Sooo somebody was probally doing something illegal.
I need to figure out how I'm going to get some of the switches and cables out every single one is frozen up solid from the truck setting out in the elements for 30+ years.
Even the ebrake cable is frozen up. I tried to take the pin out that holds the clasp and its frozen in place. Man I wish I had a torch to carefull heat some of this stuff up to get it apart.
#19
#24
I did a little bit of stuff.... i also got the truck moved over to the back shop behind work. It will be a home for it while i widdle away at it. it will have race car company all chevy stuff though.
I know the suggestion was to get it running and driveable before i start body work. I would love to but just as it sets now just to get the chassis in working order is my priority.
I need to straighten the frame up front first. im going to completely prep and paint the frame while im at it.
Unfortunatly im going to have the body clear off it so i can do this.
I have no glass no seat or anything in the cab, one door doesn't shut and stay shut(good excuse to go to the altman easy latches. To me it seems a waste to do all the frame work and then put the body back on only to take it off again to do body work.
it may take me years to get this done but i dont lose interest in things easily.
Ill take pics as i go, and anywhooo ill stop rambling and post a few pics.
pulled the sending unit to see inside the tank, and it looks like all those untold years with no gas cap did its toll. All rusted and tank is ruined. another good excuse for a mustang tank in rear.
the am radio that came out of under the dash its all busted
the heater box....is this a pretty standard box???
and here she sets in her new home for now
I know the suggestion was to get it running and driveable before i start body work. I would love to but just as it sets now just to get the chassis in working order is my priority.
I need to straighten the frame up front first. im going to completely prep and paint the frame while im at it.
Unfortunatly im going to have the body clear off it so i can do this.
I have no glass no seat or anything in the cab, one door doesn't shut and stay shut(good excuse to go to the altman easy latches. To me it seems a waste to do all the frame work and then put the body back on only to take it off again to do body work.
it may take me years to get this done but i dont lose interest in things easily.
Ill take pics as i go, and anywhooo ill stop rambling and post a few pics.
pulled the sending unit to see inside the tank, and it looks like all those untold years with no gas cap did its toll. All rusted and tank is ruined. another good excuse for a mustang tank in rear.
the am radio that came out of under the dash its all busted
the heater box....is this a pretty standard box???
and here she sets in her new home for now
#25
Hey Steve,
It looks kind of lonely in there all alone - where is this race car?
We just dug the sending unit out of our 1970 22 gal. mustang tank -
it sat too long & got varnished out. Careful picking your gauges - get the sending unit that fits your tank first then pick the gauge (don't ask me how I know). I assumed you could just change out the sending units to match gauge - not so much.
Keep up the momentum - you are getting there.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)
It looks kind of lonely in there all alone - where is this race car?
We just dug the sending unit out of our 1970 22 gal. mustang tank -
it sat too long & got varnished out. Careful picking your gauges - get the sending unit that fits your tank first then pick the gauge (don't ask me how I know). I assumed you could just change out the sending units to match gauge - not so much.
Keep up the momentum - you are getting there.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)
#26
#27
Hey Steve,
On the mustang tank & accompanying fuel gauge. I made sure the gauge I got is compatible with the Ohm's coming out of that 1970 mustang tank
sender. Read the fine print on this one - ohms from that sender are in a certain range & you need a gauge that can do that. It can get pretty frustrating if you miss the fine print on this one - just chasing around why that brand new gauge doesn't work.
Good luck over there.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
On the mustang tank & accompanying fuel gauge. I made sure the gauge I got is compatible with the Ohm's coming out of that 1970 mustang tank
sender. Read the fine print on this one - ohms from that sender are in a certain range & you need a gauge that can do that. It can get pretty frustrating if you miss the fine print on this one - just chasing around why that brand new gauge doesn't work.
Good luck over there.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
#29
#30
Holy cow I set out to try and get the front fenders and such off the front so I can straighten the fron frame horns. But wth tons of the bolts are carriage bolts and even if I soak them in pb blaster they just spin. Loooks like I may have to cut them with my cut of wheel.
I'm going to try at alll costs to save the back fender bolts since they look like they will be hell to replace.
I'm going to try at alll costs to save the back fender bolts since they look like they will be hell to replace.