1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Steves' 49 f1 project

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  #16  
Old 10-19-2012, 10:58 PM
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Hey Steve,
Time to celebrate your win on getting the old drums off!
There will always be something else that needs doing so crack a nice cold one open & drink to your success!

You'll go nuts if don't celebrate each hill you climb.
Looking good over there!

Ben in Austin
 
  #17  
Old 10-24-2012, 09:22 PM
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Pulled the am radio or what's left of it. Man that thing was big and heavy.
Also found a little switch under the dash. After some research I thought it was for the dash lights but looks like someone bypassed that, and hooked it to the brake switch. Sooo somebody was probally doing something illegal.

I need to figure out how I'm going to get some of the switches and cables out every single one is frozen up solid from the truck setting out in the elements for 30+ years.
Even the ebrake cable is frozen up. I tried to take the pin out that holds the clasp and its frozen in place. Man I wish I had a torch to carefull heat some of this stuff up to get it apart.
 
  #18  
Old 10-24-2012, 09:31 PM
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A cheap propane torch and half ATF and Acetone for penitrating fluid is about the best I have ever seen in like 40 years of doing this stuff. Also a Big *** hammer is a must.
 
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:52 PM
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Man I completely forgot about the cheap bottle torches. I got a big hammer and a cut off wheel worse case. I've heard of atf and acetone working wonders.
 
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by imabaka
Man I completely forgot about the cheap bottle torches. I got a big hammer and a cut off wheel worse case. I've heard of atf and acetone working wonders.

Well now there ya go. Ya got it all now so it's a piece of cake. Just kidding. Good luck and don't hesitate to ask anything on here. Ain't no stupid questions here. Just dumb answers. Right?
 
  #21  
Old 10-24-2012, 10:39 PM
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Yup no stupid questions. And as I dig deeper into this project I will have lots of questions.
 
  #22  
Old 10-25-2012, 01:38 AM
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Was there a speaker with the radio and a bracket for the speaker?
 
  #23  
Old 10-25-2012, 06:00 PM
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The speaker was built into the radio and radio was mounted below the dash not in normal spot.
 
  #24  
Old 11-07-2012, 07:34 PM
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I did a little bit of stuff.... i also got the truck moved over to the back shop behind work. It will be a home for it while i widdle away at it. it will have race car company all chevy stuff though.

I know the suggestion was to get it running and driveable before i start body work. I would love to but just as it sets now just to get the chassis in working order is my priority.
I need to straighten the frame up front first. im going to completely prep and paint the frame while im at it.
Unfortunatly im going to have the body clear off it so i can do this.
I have no glass no seat or anything in the cab, one door doesn't shut and stay shut(good excuse to go to the altman easy latches. To me it seems a waste to do all the frame work and then put the body back on only to take it off again to do body work.
it may take me years to get this done but i dont lose interest in things easily.
Ill take pics as i go, and anywhooo ill stop rambling and post a few pics.

pulled the sending unit to see inside the tank, and it looks like all those untold years with no gas cap did its toll. All rusted and tank is ruined. another good excuse for a mustang tank in rear.


the am radio that came out of under the dash its all busted


the heater box....is this a pretty standard box???


and here she sets in her new home for now


 
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:17 PM
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Hey Steve,
It looks kind of lonely in there all alone - where is this race car?

We just dug the sending unit out of our 1970 22 gal. mustang tank -
it sat too long & got varnished out. Careful picking your gauges - get the sending unit that fits your tank first then pick the gauge (don't ask me how I know). I assumed you could just change out the sending units to match gauge - not so much.

Keep up the momentum - you are getting there.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)
 
  #26  
Old 11-07-2012, 10:00 PM
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That is a good point with the fuel guage. What have people done to solve this issue with using a mustang tank???

The race car can somewhat be seen in the last pic. Its a sportmod for dirt track. The other sportmod is out in the bull pen. And there is a dirt track stockcar outside.
 
  #27  
Old 11-07-2012, 10:36 PM
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Hey Steve,
On the mustang tank & accompanying fuel gauge. I made sure the gauge I got is compatible with the Ohm's coming out of that 1970 mustang tank
sender. Read the fine print on this one - ohms from that sender are in a certain range & you need a gauge that can do that. It can get pretty frustrating if you miss the fine print on this one - just chasing around why that brand new gauge doesn't work.

Good luck over there.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1
 
  #28  
Old 11-07-2012, 11:02 PM
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Ok I will do that its going to be a while before I get THAT far but nice to have my ducks in a row.
 
  #29  
Old 11-09-2012, 10:01 PM
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another small update... i PB blastered every single bolt i could find on the front and rear fenders and sheet metal.
I also finished mother natures job and removed whats left of the sheet metal bed floor and wood.





a few shot of the company my truck has



 
  #30  
Old 11-13-2012, 08:40 PM
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Holy cow I set out to try and get the front fenders and such off the front so I can straighten the fron frame horns. But wth tons of the bolts are carriage bolts and even if I soak them in pb blaster they just spin. Loooks like I may have to cut them with my cut of wheel.
I'm going to try at alll costs to save the back fender bolts since they look like they will be hell to replace.
 


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