2011 F150 Brakes
#1
2011 F150 Brakes
I have a 2011 CC 4x4 ECOBOOST F150. I have 45,000 miles on it and the front brakes started squealing.
Has anyone changed there fronts yet on a 2011? Any suggestions on pads?
Any tricks for this job that I need to be aware of?
Any information, hints, or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Has anyone changed there fronts yet on a 2011? Any suggestions on pads?
Any tricks for this job that I need to be aware of?
Any information, hints, or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
#2
I just rolled over 41,000 miles on my 2010 and still have the factory pads/rotors, so I can't offer any advice. I'm a fan of ceramic pads myself, but they tend to be a little pricey compared to the semi-metallics. I also like drilled/slotted rotors, but they have the same issue on price. There are lots of opinions on this topic.
#4
WOW, 90K on the 250? that is outstanding, mine lasted about 25K on my 02 F250 and then had issues. I am hopeing my F150 will get 50K before it needs new brakes.
#6
#7
I personally have had great luck on all my vehicles with ceramic pads. My wife's subaru clocked 88k before the front pads needed changing. The rears could probably have gone to 130k at the rate they were wearing. I believe Ford uses a Ceramic formulation, most manufacturers are going this route to keep dust down since so many people love having shiny rims (myself included).
However, if you're not into racing I must highly recommend sticking with solid vented rotors. Slotted, dimpled or even cross drilled rotors are subject to more cracking stresses because of the thinner/non-existent material on those rotors. You will stop more effectively, but your chances of getting as much life out of far more expensive rotors (especially if you haul at all) is very slim. They're fine for sport cars, but then you're only stopping 3,000 lbs of car. Our trucks weigh on the order of around 6k for most configurations, then add on the payload or whatever you're towing. You're subjecting breaks to longer duration braking events and probably experiencing a higher delta in temperature because of the amount of mass having to be stopped. Besides, with solid face rotors, you can probably machine them and get some decent life out of them with a 2nd set of pads.
However, if you're not into racing I must highly recommend sticking with solid vented rotors. Slotted, dimpled or even cross drilled rotors are subject to more cracking stresses because of the thinner/non-existent material on those rotors. You will stop more effectively, but your chances of getting as much life out of far more expensive rotors (especially if you haul at all) is very slim. They're fine for sport cars, but then you're only stopping 3,000 lbs of car. Our trucks weigh on the order of around 6k for most configurations, then add on the payload or whatever you're towing. You're subjecting breaks to longer duration braking events and probably experiencing a higher delta in temperature because of the amount of mass having to be stopped. Besides, with solid face rotors, you can probably machine them and get some decent life out of them with a 2nd set of pads.
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#8
#9
Some brakes squeal before the pads really need replacing, if there is still pad left on them you can have the rotors turned to resolve it. The rotors can glaze over depending on your braking habbits (do you keep your foot covering the brake a lot? Sme people do and inadvertantly use e brakes much more thathey should) There are also times when a rock or something gets wedged in by the rotor causing a squeal.
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