I just rolled over 41,000 miles on my 2010 and still have the factory pads/rotors, so I can't offer any advice. I'm a fan of ceramic pads myself, but they tend to be a little pricey compared to the semi-metallics. I also like drilled/slotted rotors, but they have the same issue on price. There are lots of opinions on this topic.
2010 F-150 XLT Supercrew 4x4 5.4L
2013 Explorer Limited (The wife's family truckster)
You haven't lived life until you've done 110mph in a Yugo
my 2010 had a bad charter at 23800 ford changed them out. ill never let some one use it to tow a utility trailer again!
i would get factory if your not going with brim bro or some other top notch brake up grade!
2012 F150 XLT 4X4 crew cab 5.0 with 3:55 lockable rear end
I personally have had great luck on all my vehicles with ceramic pads. My wife's subaru clocked 88k before the front pads needed changing. The rears could probably have gone to 130k at the rate they were wearing. I believe Ford uses a Ceramic formulation, most manufacturers are going this route to keep dust down since so many people love having shiny rims (myself included).
However, if you're not into racing I must highly recommend sticking with solid vented rotors. Slotted, dimpled or even cross drilled rotors are subject to more cracking stresses because of the thinner/non-existent material on those rotors. You will stop more effectively, but your chances of getting as much life out of far more expensive rotors (especially if you haul at all) is very slim. They're fine for sport cars, but then you're only stopping 3,000 lbs of car. Our trucks weigh on the order of around 6k for most configurations, then add on the payload or whatever you're towing. You're subjecting breaks to longer duration braking events and probably experiencing a higher delta in temperature because of the amount of mass having to be stopped. Besides, with solid face rotors, you can probably machine them and get some decent life out of them with a 2nd set of pads.
Currently: 2013 RAM 3500 Crew Cab Short Box (a different 6.7 I suppose)
Used to Own: 2010 Ford F-150 Supercrew FX4
Squealing brakes can commonly be contributed to a lot of stop and go traffic and very common when brakes get hot from hard braking. There are pads that are better than OEM brake pads but the brake rotor would very likely need to be turned to remove the glaze removed.
Some brakes squeal before the pads really need replacing, if there is still pad left on them you can have the rotors turned to resolve it. The rotors can glaze over depending on your braking habbits (do you keep your foot covering the brake a lot? Sme people do and inadvertantly use e brakes much more thathey should) There are also times when a rock or something gets wedged in by the rotor causing a squeal.
Rob, disabled VET USAF.
My Mod Thread 2013 F150 Platinum, Ego-Boost, 3.73, max tow, skid plates, and bed liner, 32% ceramic tinting.
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