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Did it today at 4000 miles. Used Motorcraft oil filter and Mobil One Extended Performance oil. Old oil drained out super fast. Too fast. I will buy a Fumoto drain valve soon. This is a full synthetic oil with extended drain intervals.
I will ck the oil frequently to see how it looks at various mileage. I hope this oil will allow my motor to last a real long time. We will see.
Before installing the new filter I put some oil on the seal but did not pre-fill the filter with oil. Is pre-fill necessary or should I NOT do that?
Don't worry about the pre-fill. Just check your level again on flat ground after you've run it and checked for leaks. Iv'e done it both ways, your level might drop slightly starting her up and filling that dry filter is why.
I plan on taking mine to the stealer to do the service. Where I bought it they will do the service for 17 bucks.
Personally I have total confidence in the dealer's oil and how long the 6.2 will last is the farthest thing from my mind. Wellll, maybe if I was wanting to get in the Ripley's book.
We have to do what we feel comfortable with, so that makes us both happy.
Thats actually one of the (minor but significant IMHO) issues with the Fumoto drain valves....the flow reduction allows contaminents to potentially collect at the drain instead of flowing out. Pull a pan immediately after a drain & you will see what i mean.
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Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
Slightly off subject, but can someone tell me what the torque on the oil pan plug should be? I've been running an '03DMax until trading for '12 SD 6.2L and surely the 65lb torque DMax spec. is a bit over the top for the 6.2L.
I have looked for a sticky listing typical torque specs, but have not found much.
I had my first one done last week at 4900 miles. I will let the dealer do it while it is under warranty. Early I know, but I have a 3K+ mile trip starting next seek.
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2012, F250, Lariat, 6.2, FX4, 3.73
Before you Die....Take time to Live
Thats actually one of the (minor but significant IMHO) issues with the Fumoto drain valves....the flow reduction allows contaminents to potentially collect at the drain instead of flowing out. Pull a pan immediately after a drain & you will see what i mean.
Do you have any proof to that? Or are you just speculating with NO real data???
biz
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2012 FORD F250 SD CC 156" Lariat FX4 6.2L BOSS 4x4 4.30s
2003 F250 SD SC 142" XLT FX4 V10 Auto 4x4 3.73s -- Traded
1976 F150 LWB Custom 4x4 390FE NP435 3.50s
biz I spose your comment could have the ole "double sword" addage applied. Is there imperical data available to support if the futimo flushed out the bottom of the pan just as well as pulling the plug.
Cheers, just pulling your chain. I don't have a position, but am sticking with the drain plug, since the oil will be running down the stealers arm.
Well I am doing the first change at 3K next week, since shortly thereafter this ole pfart will be hooking up the fifth wheel and getting out of dodge for a coule of months.
Do you have any proof to that? Or are you just speculating with NO real data???
biz
Ok, it screws into the threaded nut/flange right...if you look or measure, it protrudes just above the lip on the inside (about 1/16" +), that slightly restricts the heaviest contaminents from draining.....and imperical data....the basic laws of physics.....liquids don't travel uphill, over a ledge type design to drain
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Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
I have to agree with beechkid. I let my oil drain until it stops dripping ensuring I got the most used oil and debris out. Paranoia of being a tech I guess. I also just dont trust valves. I've seen to many ball valves fail. ( never seen one used in passenger vehicles but on heavy equipment) Drain plugs are proven and it only takes and extra 30 seconds to pull it.
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