So I finally set the timing on my 390 in my '69 f250 camper special ranger. That was a task in itself considering the distributor wouldn't budge. After putting the new vacuum advance on the distributor and resetting the points I took it for a spin. The problem seems to be every time I step on it the points lose their gap. Im somewhat familiar with Duraspark I used to drive a '83 f150 302. That seems to be the question Duraspark or Pertronix. I don't mind doing the work to assemble the Duraspark but would I gain much over Pertronix? The points are goin away. Thanks, Corey.

 

cjohn, I think both are good choices. I have heartburn with your points loosing setting. I believe you will experience the same should you add the Petronix without replacing the dist.

Getting the dist to move is a must, so weigh it out, you will make a good choice either way.



John

 

I was able to get the distributor freed up. Just not sure why my points seem to be moving and losing gap. So if my distributor does need to be replaced, whats a good replacement? Something from a newer ford?

 

The advantage with a DS system is parts availability in the event a component goes out. Pertonix is supposed to be bulletproof (other opinions may vary but I've run one since 1990 n my 65 'Stang) but you do have the option of keeping the points/parts in a baggie in the glovebox.

Either way going electronic with a simplified system results in a smoother starts, idle, and ignition timing.

 

check the screws that hold the points down , some are shorter than others . if you have them in the wrong place they will hit the advance plate and cause it to not move or jack up your gap setting when vacuum kicks in .
been there done that .

 

i went with the eba pro comp HEI dizzy . parts available everywhere if it gives me trouble (no trouble yet)

 

HEI here too. Love it!

 

Just wondering, when did you install it? I've wanted to try one, but I've been afraid to as you hear all kinds of horror stories about their stuff....the only thing I've ever used of theirs' is the set of solid flat tappet lifters in my cleveland, and that's only because I really trust the individual who suggested them to me.

 

Hmmm. The screws are suspect the pivot screw is a phillips and the screw for the point gap adjustment is a flat blade. The only other thing I did was put a new vacuum advance on and I set it as per instruction. When I slowly revved the engine up and backed slowly down the point lost their gap. I looked at the HEI distributor, with the price it seems too good to be true. I had looked at this thread on another forum (Electrionic Ignition for Ford 390 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board) and tells about doing a durapark conversion but that seems like a little bit of a haphazard setup. Appreciate everyone's inputs. I guess the real question is what is fouling up the points gap?

 

Ditch the points! I got my HEI dizzy off of eBay for around $139 WITH already cut to length 8mm wires. Just pull out your old dizzy, slid the HEI in and find a switchable 12V source. Regap plugs to .045, then put on your new wires. Reset timing and your done. Mine is right at a year old now and no problems. Start right up as soon as I turn the key.

 

Sounds good to me, solid state and a new distributor. Ive never pulled a distributor, read a little bit about it. What mods do I need to do to the wiring that currently goes to the distributor or the (what I think to be) factory coil?

 

You don't need your factory coil.....everything is built into the dizzy under the cap, so you will also end up with a clean look as well. All you have to do is find the wire that supplies 12V as soon as you turn the key on the back of your ignition switch. You then run a wire from that 12V wire you just found to the back of the HEI dizzy cap. Its labeled battery I think???? the other is labeled tach. Simple.

The only downfall is you can't use a factory air cleaner unless you install a 2 inch spacer under the carb because the dizzy cap is a lot bigger than a stock Ford cap. I would install a spacer under the carb on all these trucks anyway....

 

I've had mine just over a year too . $140 off ebay with wires
for the 12v i removed my instrument cluster and found the PINK resistor wire .
i found were it ended and went to a regular wire . i tapped in the other ignition controlled wire ( red /green i think) ran a wire from there to were pink ends . 12v to coil.

 

Well im convinced lol. Thanks for all the help.

 

Since it is now the weekend again I started looking into a HEI distributor on Ebay for the '69. Im fairly sure its a 390FE (5stud valve covers) . My only question now is, How do I know if I have a 1/4" drive oil pump? Thanks, Corey.