Seems to be some confusion out there or maybe its Just Me being Curious about what out Alternators are Supposed to Operate Volts wise

So I thought we Give everyone a Chance to Chime In with what you Guys see Happening With Alternator Output On Your Trucks

Thanks For Playing the Ford 6.0L Alternator Lottery

 

Ford 3G conversion.




Josh

 

I have a Autozone unit in my EX at the moment:

11.8V after startup for about 30-45 seconds, then it creeps up to 14.0V or so.

Thinking about putting my repaired 250A DC Power back in to see if there is a difference in the charging at start voltage.

 

After it goes up to 14 volt Does it Stay at 14.0 volt range the Duration of the trip???


And No the DC Alternator wont have any affect that first 30-45 seconds thats ALL the Batterys there till the Glow Plugs shut off upto 2 minutes

I just put new Batterys in and would hang in the same range the first 30-45 seconds run Rough

But with the New Batterys WOW What a HUGE Diffrence Huge and my old Batterys were not that bad yet

 

I think it drops back down to 13.8V or so from time to time. BTW, I'm running nice minty fresh batteries from Costco.

 

Me Too Duralast Golds 1000ca/850CCA


Did you notice a Big diffrence in How smooth the truck runs the first 0-120seconds??

I did it would have been Very Similar to Sticktion issue that first 2 minutes or while GP are on

 

After i start the truck it runs between 11.5 and 11.9, after a minute or so it starts getting a charge and it runs 13.6 to 13.9 and once in awhile it will pop up to 14 but it doesnt stay there. I am running the motorcraft 750 CCA batteries.

 

Well I put my new batteries in when I did my coolers and HPO stuff. It runs fantastic, starts quick when cold, and almost as quick when warm\hot.

Before that it used to start like an angry old bear.

 

Are these voltages at the OBD port or at the batteries?

Josh

 

OBD for me.

 

I think that is where most of the "confusion" comes from given voltage readings have traditionally been taken at the battery terminals for 100+ years and now with OBD readers the voltage readings are now skewed in that the OBD port has some amount of voltage drop.

13.6-13.8 volts at the port for me equals about 14.0-14.2 volts at the battery.

With my old 6G was 13.0-13.2 volts.

I have brand new AC Delco 850cca batteries BTW.

Josh

 

I'll try to remember to take a look at my "Battery" Voltage tomorrow to compare.

 

Thats Exactly it Josh LOL I didnt know you were adding voltage

All of us are Giving the Value we see at the OBDII Port

Your the Odd Man Out by Adding 0.10-0.40 Volts to your numbers for the voltage drop from the length of the Wire to the OBDII Port that is LOST


Hopefulley everyone else will just post what they read at the Gauge via OBDII Port

 

I have always posted both.





And keep in mind not everyone has an OBD reader/scanner to get those voltages. It has always been at the battery. That is the REAL voltage, not a reading after miles of wiring harness.

Josh

 

Im with ya

But if they only can test at the Batterys they dont see the whole picture the alternator output Voltage will change/drop after the trucks been driven long enough that the Batterys are toppped back off and have recovered from the drain when the truck was started

They would need to check it Multiple times each drive cycle IMO